DavyZ

Yeah, no "secrets" here! We all benefit from helping each other and putting our knowledge of machinery and physics out on the site for all to partake. That way, we can ALL build some kicka$$ cars! I love this site, too. David

Deadhead: a fan of Jerry Garcia Adam, it's been a while since I perused your website--you are nutz; but I mean that in a good way!!!!

Good information. Will look out for this during tear down of the car...

Hoover, I seriously doubt that the resulting fried wiring was from a short--it most likely was from a header pipe. Get new wires that make sense--Vic Hubbard should have just about every length available for relatively cheap. And, as you stated, go the wrap and heat shield route.

Ditto on the 377--a lightened Scat 350 crank set up for the 400 block is the bomb.

Lone, the small block sounds really good. I think you cam may make it sound more tame then it really is. If you listen to Dave Booths engine for a comparison, it sounds a little lumpier (more aggressive cam) then yours. I would be proud to have your car for my own in my garage! At least it runs well! Nice job on the car, website, and sounds. Take care, David

Kevin, thanks for the tips--I just realized what I'll be doing with my all weather floormats that remain unused in the garage--I won't be throwing them away yet! 66coupe, don't pumps for EFI engines put out way too much pressure to be safely used for carbed cars? The last thing I want is a ruptured fuel line and high pressure spraying gasoline everywhere! Am I missing something here? What is the operating pressure of such a pump? David

Mike, assuming you are talking about factory 305 heads, this is the ultra-cheap way to bump compression. If you have a smog job motor with 8.0:1 compression, the 305 heads will bump compression a minimum of 2 points! Reason? They have a chamber volume of something like 53cc or close to that. This is in contrast with the smog heads of about 76cc. Compression goes WAY up, but flow does not necessarily go up by the same amount. The valves are smaller then the 1.94" x 1.5" valves you most likely have on your 350 heads. CarCraft likes these 305 heads because they can come practically free. If you are on a very limited budget as I am, they are worth looking at if you already have them or if they are practically free. They have small runners, which is good for a fast responding small block, but top end horsepower is where the engine may suffer--it depends on what the top rpm will be. If you will run 5000rpm or less, then its no biggie, but if you are trying to build a motor that will spin upwards of 6500rpm, you should look at better (more expensive) heads. You can always do some "pocket" porting and get some results, but only put money into 305 heads if you are doing the work. Otherwise you are probably better off buying some aftermarket heads. If, however, the 305 heads you are talking about are already aftermarket heads, then forget all the above, becuase they will outflow the stock heads anyway. HTH David

Seems curious that suddenly it would happen. Perhaps this is unrelated, but have you checked the fuel filter lately?

Lone, the Carter seems appealing except from what BLKMGK said about it. Let me know how well the Dynamat helped with the sound after you use it. I know the exhaust will help drown out the noise of the pump, but I want to eliminate as much noise as possible, period. My goal is to drive this thing up to Sonoma with my wife for wine tasting, shopping, and my favorite: Sears Point Drag Racing!!! It has to be livable in other words. Thanks again for the help everyone! David

No no no...a mandrel is another name (formal name) for a baboon! Spelling is actually "mandrill" for the ape, but they are pronounced almost the same.

Well, you could even try a Haynes manual for very general stuff, just get a Camaro manual or something with the V8 you are using--they're cheap and available at most auto parts stores. Another good book is "How to rebuild your Small Block Chevy" by David Vizard from HP Books. You are so close to finishing you can taste it! Just take your time, get a good understanding from the books, and everything will turn out fine. If you have a friend that knows something about V8's, get help. Otherwise, you could farm out the simple stuff to the local high school auto shop (I'm not kidding) or even a local garage for cheap. Hope this helps!

Since you have the 400 block already, assuming it's good (might want to have it sonic checked first) build a 377!!! That will be some motor!

Thanks for the replies, guys. The Holley pumps I have been eyeballing because of reasonable cost, but I have heard they are noisy. If I go that route, I'll use Dynamat or something like it for sure, along with rubber isolation. These are all good ideas you have given me and I'll take advantage of other's experiences. Anyone try the Carter electric pumps?

I will be purchasing an electric fuel pump sometime soon, and want to know what is considered "quiet" or "noisy" for such a thing. I have heard that the Holley is noisy, but that seems to be what many of you are running! I am running about 300hp for now and need a pump I can live with in terms of price (I'm cheap), noise (quiet is better), and availability (common is better and more likely to be around in the years to come). Please fire away! Thanks, David PS--don't slap me with "it's in the archives, stupid"

Lone, you may have lost your mind, but not your humor! Man, THAT is too funny! This is a mandrel...BOY THAT IS RICH! Haw haw!

Offer him $100--that's probably what you'd pay at a wrecking yard for some wheels and tires anyway. If he wants more, give him more..this does include tires, yes? I wouldn't pay more than $250 for them from a friend, but that's IMO only. Those wheels are a start and they're cheap.

The mule was my first V8 converted Z ride...I nearly wet my pants from the experience. This was when Mike Knell put out his first edition of the manual (I still have it too!) and he let me drive the car--I didn't make it past 3rd gear--he thought it was pretty funny! Now, many moons later, I am building my own V8Z. I caught the bug and it has never gone away. I really want to finish my car and drive the sucker! David

I wrote down the url for him, but I have no idea if he still produces the thing, or if he still has his site--use the search function: kaynor.net/v8-240z/ That is the correct spelling of his name; maybe just try kaynor.net and email him. Hope this helps! David

I think the T56 is a better way to go for the money...if you want a manual tranny. I looked at the GV unit a few years back and my jaw slapped the table as it fell off my face when I saw the price. No thank you.

Regarding the Optima battery--oh yea, that's the one for me. I have had it with leaking batteries etc, on some of my past cars (and the 260Z--rust, rust, rust) and will fork out the $$$ for an Optima. I have not done the cutting, but I will sink it in the center (or right side) where there's room back there. I took a look at Mike Knell's set up on the "mule" and the sunk battery in the back looks really good. I was shocked at the apparent room underneath for a relatively large item like a battery.

The JTR book says a single 2.5" pipe is fine for a mild 350, so a 283 should do o.k. I am going to be running about 400hp with a 355, so I have already purchased a single 3" system--which is almost overkill since it is so good (mandrel bent and all that). You could save money and see how your system works out first, then upgrade later if you really need it.

Why would they do any more or any less of a job then the stock ones? It seems to me that the quality of the install would make the biggest difference. Being in California, I don't worry too much about excessive moisture anyway. I really have no desire to drive a V8 in the rain, especially with sticky dry weather tires! David

No, you still use the filter element, so getting water via rain in the intake would be a very rare occurrence. Lone, I have my '77 Camaro air filter assembly, which you are welcome to for free if you want it. Pricher, about a year ago HotRod had an article on making a ram air box using a 14" chrome open filter element (cheap), two stack boxes from the local hardware store (like the one shown in the picture), and some aluminum sheet metal. Two of those boxes can be riveted to the air filter and the sheet aluminum can be used to cover the remaining exposed element. I plan on using this same set up for mine when I'm finished. Hot underhood air does not excite me, and I can pick up a few horsepower as well. David

Nion, I have seen cutoff/kill switches built in to the cigarette lighter element! It looks ordinary and "stock" but does its job! Recently a friend of mine had his Toyota Corolla twin cam (rwd) stolen. He just picked another one up and made a kill switch from one of the many electrical buttons on the console. Using pre-existing buttons, switches, or even the cigarette lighter idea keeps our interiors and exteriors intact and less conspicuous. Hope this helps.