DavyZ

FWIW, IMO a V8 Z32 swap should do very nicely in there. Are you going for the A/T or T6 LT1 in the Z32 ASAP? RSVP! DS

Hoover, your picture of the Z with the airdam looks suspiciously like the Z that was on ebay a few months ago! Is that the same car?

Man, that is cool. I can even understand it too! I was toying with idea of eventually buying an MSD Digital 6, but this is really cool because I can custom tailor any module (pill) for my needs. Much cheaper then buying them from MSD... Thanks for posting that information!!! David

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: Cheap is such a harsh politically incorrect term; I prefer efficient! Why Kevin, I never thought you were PC! Cheap is better because it IS harsh--kinda shocking like our cars are shocking. I suppose a compromise is in order though: CHEAP = EFFICIENT David

DUH! Well didn't I just read right past the specs on Scotties post! That'll teach me... Jeromio, that mount is really well thought out and looks like it was quite a bit of work, with welding no less! That's much too much work for me...too technical too! The pic comes up pretty good on my monitor though, so don't sweat it. I'll go the Scottie route...

Drew, I saw the ads for Ravins, but thought that maybe they were possibly trendy--just look at how many mufflers there are out there, and more keep coming! How would you rate them in terms of sound compared to Flowmaster? I want something "quiet" and am not sold on Flows for that reason.

Kyle, are the pics messing with my eyes or did you pick a mauve with a silver base?? I'm not saying it looks bad, I just want to know--what color am I supposed to be looking at?!? Looks like you did the job right and I know you will be proud of the finished product. Hope to see your car in the Bay Area one of these days. David

Scottie, that is a very sano install. I'll take that into consideration too! I'm assuming you used some mild steel; do you remember what guage you used? David

Thank you Drax for posting that information! Should be a very good upgrade that I will definitely pursue. If the information is inaccurate, please let us know, but this sounds like a good thing. I enjoy the idea of not having to mangle the housing or anything else.

The plastic wrapped steel cable is VERY strong and should be about perfect in the way it has just enough give, unlike a solid mount, and is MUCH stronger then the stock joke. I will proudly use cable and if anyone asks, I will pose the question: "Do you of something better?" David

Drax, the tweeters you may want to consider mounting on the plate between the dash and the windshield. It's easily removable, metal, and would look good with small tweeters. What size are your tweeters anyway? I should have asked that first!

Lone, I may catch some flak here from others, but the Stag has to be the best looking car Triumph put out. It certainly looks the most expensive. Occasionally I'll see one in the paper for sale. They seem to sell for anywhere from $3000-$7000. I even saw one with a Chevy (or was it Ford?) engine conversion once! Not many people would know what kind of car it was if you owned a Stag. Man, one with an EFI Ford swap and painted bright red or BRG, man that's the BOMB! Very cool! Lone if you ever look into doing a Brit swap, check out a Stag first before you make a decision. David

Good question. Maybe it's to guarantee a steady flow of fuel under all conditions? Using a regulator to keep line pressure at 7-10 lbs? Someone who knows please chime in!

Nion, I know that Nissan put that strap there for a reason, but going to a solid mount or the cheap JTR Cable method will work well. I am cheap and the cable suits me fine. Is it the strength of the cable that concerns you? Or the Mickey Mouse look of it all?

I bought a grinder there--it's decent quality and works well. I don't like the fact that 95% of everything is made in (communist) China. The price many times reflects the quality, unfortunately. I am very selective when I go there and carefully look at what I buy. Even if something is more expensive, I try to buy American when I can, so Sears is my first stop! David

Kevin, that sounds like a great way to take the guess work out of picking the right combo for what gas you want to run. It would be a nasty little mistake to have picked a combo that accidentally requires race gas! OOOPS! What you DIDN'T give was the name of the book this information came from. Obviously you forgot after you wrote down the 3 page synopsis above. I understand that! Seriously, thanks for bringing it up, because I'll use that information for my next engine, a 377 with a lightened Scat crank and roller camshaft etc. I can dream can't I? Thanks, Kevin! David

Oltmann, Texas is not exactly like CA in terms of smog. In many counties there are very relaxed rules regarding smog equipment. Ross C brings up a very good point, that he may not need to pass the visual at all, only the sniffer, which I believe he can do if everything is tuned properly. The allowable smog limits soar above what most tuned motors run anyway. Just my $.02. Jeff, you will also need an O2 sensor most likely of you put any of the 1984 stuff back on. Hopefully you wont have to if all you have to do is pass the sniffer...I wish you the best!

Len, try GM Sports Salvage on Old Oakland Road in San Jose. They have T5's & T6's. You getting tired of your 4 speed or what? David

Len, I missed you at the Palo Alto show last weekend...too bad--it was great and you missed out!! Like Nion said, Evan has the adapters and sells them. Find a thread with him in it and email him. Hope to see you sometime soon! David

Jag, the JTR manual only covers the 1st generation Z's. HOWEVER, the manual is very useful for understanding the V8 swap in general and is useful for other aspects such as cooling, fuel system, etc. It can only help you. Ross Corrigan, a friend from Canada, has done this swap--2+2 is different--and can answer some questions for you. He is in the middle of finals, I believe, but he posts relatively often. Hopefully he logs on during a beer break or something.

Look at the JTR manual--if you look at the pics showing the rear of underside of the car, you'll see where the pump is mounted. Very near the spare tirewell.

Sweet information, guys! Thank you! The tool is cool and relatively cheap to rent. I do, however, feel courageous enough to try the bat method now that I have seen the Honduh example. This is going to be cool!

The anti-squeal grease etc helps to absorb some of the vibrations caused by the pad to rotor contact. The high frequency resonance is minimized by the anti-squeal compound. Some cars have shims containing a thin rubber coating on one side, and when set between the pad and the piston, presto! No more noise!

Welcome to the forum Nezzie76! Your HP goals are right in line with a mild rebuild. I guess the question you have to answer is how much money do you want to spend on the rebuild? You can buy cheap rebuild kits from PAW or Northern Auto Parts by mailorder. If you keep the pistons and rods, get a high performance cam with an advertised duration of about 270 degrees (or about 222 degrees or less at .050") Don't make the mistake of overcamming your car with a hotter cam unless you change heads, pistons, etc. You can build up a nice, relatively cheap motor with an easy 275-300 hp. Ditto on the Weiand Stealth intake--I own one too. Get a book on performance rebuilding and go to it! Once you get the motor dialed in, you WILL trounce you friend. He will be ashamed, humiliated, and want to drive your car. I guarantee it. David

I agree, I'm outta here...sorry if I shot off too quickly...