DavyZ

Gee, I realize that I have about FOUR years of CarCraft issues here, not including Hot Rod, Hot Rodding, etc. I shouldn't of shot my mouth off like that, Lone. To sum it up, though, you are right--the 3/8" line can support a modified 455 Buick motor, with (I'm guessing here) 450hp. They said to use 3/8" and that would be sufficient, even for that motor. What HP does a 455 have anyway once it is modified? Has to be at least 400-500hp. Sorry I can't find the article right now, but I still concur with your opinoin. David

SpencZ, long time no see. How is the full bore monster Z project doing? Hope its going the way you want!

Kevin, I'm still ahead of you! Hehe!

The SBC is the cheapest way to go. One other question, assuming you are doing all the work yourself, is how fast do you want to complete this swap? Following the JTR manual is like following a cookbook so to speak; it's "fast" and "simple". If you like fabricating and blazing the trail, do the SBF swap. Al Silvera (alsil) on this forum has done the Ford swap, as has Terry Oxandale (blueovalz), and a few others. They had to fab their own mounts etc. Both of those guys seem to be very good at doing this and have had success, but as much headache as it takes is not for me! I like cookbooks ala JTR! SBC all the way...

Len, you've actually obtained GSR seats and all through your contacts??? I hate you! Remember who's your friend! Seriously, make sure you get it for cheap--the seats will probably fit with some sort of an adapter rail. You'll have to fab one up, but make sure to keep it low since you need all the headroom you can get! If it all is done right, it'll look good. An upholstery shop can always advise too...just ask one of your contacts... David

Lone, as an avid reader of CarCraft (hot rodding on the very cheap) they have almost always advised 3/8" line is sufficient...Hrm, I would think 1/2 line is good for applications over 500hp? I'll go back and check it out when I get up from relaxing...

Hello Hoover, The 1988 and newer Camaro T5's are the ones to get if you want to go that route. They are torque rated at only 300 lb-ft...A T56 is a better tranny, although they seem to be a BIT more expensive. If you want either, give GM Sports Salvage in San Jose a call--they are located on Old Oakland Road. If get a T5, get the JTR recommended one with the .63:1 fifth gear since it's better for freeway driving. They also recommend shortening the shift lever by one inch to give a slightly shorter throw and to position the knob closer to the stock Datsun location. Apparently, before 1984 very few GM applications had hydraulic clutches. From 1984 on they have been using hydraulic clutches on Corvettes and Camaros, so they recommend using the Camaro bellhousing when using the T5 tranny. My book is very vague as to whether you can use the 168 tooth flywheel (probably what you have) or not with the swap--the issue being whether or not the starter will clear the frame. The 153 tooth flywheel definitely works and just needs an appropriate starter. You may have to buy a new pressure plate, clutch, etc since the old ones may not fit properly. Once you get a T5, see if anything will fit together using the parts you already have. My guess is to sell your stuff as complete unit and buy new (or used) T5 equipment as a unit. If you get the chance, buy the JTR book since it is cheap insurance. I hope this helps you. David

Very cool car you've just acquired! Yes, I echo the thoughts of the other guys that this car is set up primarily for racing--which is not bad, but won't be as fun running on the street for any extended period of time. If you plan to just race the car, keep it as it is since it looks VERY effective for what it is meant to do. Things you may want to consider if you will use this car for things other than "just" racing at the track: 1) Upgrade your tranny to a T56 if possible--the revs you will have on the street will be so much lower, you'll save your engine and your ears! 2) You could also use the JTR setback mounts to better balance the car's weight distribution. The "Scarab position" which your car has is o.k., but is not really the best for overall derivability--fortunately it is easily and cheaply corrected with the proper set back plates. 3) The hood scoop is good for allowing the carb and high rise intake plenty of room, but might be difficult to see around in traffic. A cowl induction hood would allow room and still give you visibility. Don't take any opinions from the forum personally, since each of our cars is a personal expression of taste. What is good for you isn't good for someone else and vice versa--that's ok--this is America! If you dig into the archives, you'll find answers to many questions regarding hood scoops, wheels and tires, roll cages, etc, etc. I wish my Z looked as good as yours! You have a great car and should be proud! But please, POST PICTURES OF THE REAR END ASSEMBLY!!!! Welcome to the forum and enjoy the ride! David

There are a lot of Bay Area V8Z's around (more then you might think)--JTR is just over the hill! As for stiffening/strengthening the chassis, you don't need to worry so much with a stock/mild V8. At some point, you could always weld in a roll cage and that would help things. If you have a 240, you may want to consider a cage at some point, but a 260 or 280 is a stronger car and won't really need a cage with only a mild 350 IMO. Hope this helps.

An 8 or 10 point roll cage will stiffen things up nicely. An 8 point cage is about $150 and will do wonders! Not sure about labor costs to install that sucker, but at least you'll be safe! David

Pete, I really think that your last reply should be THE Faq sheet for exhaust questions--or at the very least, part of it since this will come up again.

Ahhh, you better be careful here; that is a cramped area in the Z engine bay and not too many headers will fit it. Better be careful, or you'll wind up spending unnecessary $$$. Didn't you mention a while back that you were going with block huggers??? I thought it was you, BLKMGK.... David

If you want to take the old paint down to the original primer, there is a product called "Peeler" which is made by Klean Strip--it's a clear coat and base coat remover. It does one heck of a job--just spray on and blow off. I have used it and like it. I'm not sure what happens when you find body filler under your paint, though. Might have to think about that one... I purchased the stuff from a local paint automotive paint shop, but it should be available elsewhere. David

Ron, that was a bad deal he got on the T-5. To console him, I'll pay the $250 and even throw in an addition $100 to take that POJ off his hand for him. Of course, being the gentleman I am, I'll also pay for shipping to my door. Yeah, he got a good deal... David

The waves in the sheetmetal don't come from stripping the paint; they come from trying to straighten a panel after the metal has been stretched by a dent. A competant body shop should be able to put it back straight--but time is money and it takes time to do it right. You want no filler at all? Then it's even more expensive due to the time it takes to shrink the metal with temperature. Stripping all the paint off is expensive IMO, but maybe worth it depending on how "perfect" you want the car to look. It may need much less attention and work then you think--talk to a number of body shops and make your decision after you find out what it takes to get to where you want to be.

NOT SO FAST! If this 305 is really cheap and has a 5sp or 700R4 tranny, get it. Just stab in a decent cam and put it in your car. Take the advice to get the car running, work out the bugs, and enjoy it. Then build up a proper 350 in the meantime, take your time and do it right. There is nothing wrong with a 305, and it is a good starter motor for a conversion--but the caveat is: only if it is cheap; otherwise, it's just tying up your cash. Remember, you can sell it later as well, so don't overpay for such a motor. But consider it only if the price is right!

If you have not visited Bryan F's site for carbon fiber, do so! It is worth the look: http://bryanf.com/ Somewhere I was surfing the internet today on Z car stuff and someone had taken an old musty glove box out, spread out the pieces, traced the pattern on thin sheet steel, and bent it all in place. He also used pop rivets to hold the thing together. After shooting it with paintable undercarriage stuff(why?), it looked pretty good. David

Cool idea, Trevor! I'll steal it when the time comes. Never thought of that one before. Should add a nice custom touch to the underside of my car. Thanks for the idea! David

Could one of the moderators please take all this great info and put it into a tech article type of format, so it is NOT a dangling thread? That way (obviously so) all we have to do is say, "look at the tech article for the info." Thanks for your efforts SCCA, BLKMGK, Pete, et al. David

quote Jim, YOU THE MAN!!!!! [This message has been edited by DavyZ (edited March 23, 2001).]

Thanks Pete for clarifying that information. Electrical is the most frustrating subject about cars for me. Gracias David

Are you trying not to make it look like your PrimaDonna??? Just a joke, Hoover! I personally like the IMSA style cars due to their "Coke bottle" shape and overall aggressive stance. On a personal note, it sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Incorporating some styling cues from other cars like the Supra sounds great!

Sounds like a good deal--try to find out how many miles are on it.

Perhaps one of the more technological among us could write a "tech" article and have it be the definitive page we can turn guys to who ask this question? What do you think?

I think plastic polish is the thing to use. Unfortunately I gave mine away to a motorcycle dude who used it for his plexiglass windscreen, but I believe it was a Meguire's plastic polish and cleaner.