VinhZXT

Thank you John. That's what I want to hear.

PUsher, Why in the world would you mess around with the tie rod? Remove the 2 bolts holding the bottom of the strut to the top of the steering knuckle. Then remove the 3 bolts on top. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way and the whole thing should come out.

110 for custom brackets are cheap. Good luck with them.

Nah... it looks a bit thick to me. Make it a bit thinner and drop the car down. It will look good. If you make the front spoiler look proportional you won't need side skirts. Like this:

hehe.. Thanks for the offer. I still have I think 375 bucks credit with MM. I sent my money to him like 5 or 6 years ago for the CV adaptors and the rear disc brackets. Back then I thought I need the parts so I send him the money. But I wasn't working on my car back then so I told him to hold on to the money. Now I made my own CV adaptors and now I am making my own brake brackets. I emailed him 3 days ago and have not heard from him. I talked to a few hybridz members and they said 1/2" aluminum is thick enough especially I will use all 4 mounting bolts instead just 3. Thanks for the offer and replies. Vinh PS. How thich are they?

Of course I had air tools and the car lift that saved time too. Otherwise you will be jacking 1 corner at a time.

D280zxmod, How do you plan to open the hood? Forward or backward? I don't see how you can open the hood forward without removing your added kit. What are you doing to the rear?

I charged a friend of mine $200 for all 4 struts and springs replacement. $50 each corner and I can finish it under 2 hours.

Guys, I am working on my rear disc brakes conversion. I am making my own brackets from aluminum. I have 1/2" thick aluminum that I want to use to make the brackets. Is 1/2" aluminum thick enough to make the rear brake brackets? I have the flat brakets from 85-88 Maxima to use too but I want to make them out of aluminum to save weight and look good. Thanks for the input vinh

Dale, Yes I used the DBW from the C5 also. I also talked to John at Speartech and he said I basically on my own on this one. If I want to modify my harness and use a cable to the TB then I can use another PCM. I've made some progress tonight and got it to run 3 to 4 seconds now hehe. I am still missing a couple more things that I just found out when looking at the manuals. I will fix it tomorrow and give it another try. I am not giving up just yet hehe..

Guys, I've been posting in the LS1tech forum too and receive no help. I guess no one ever completed the C5 LS1 swap into another car yet. Anyway I read the code off the car thru the instrument pannel cluster. I have no codes for the PCM and the IPC. However I have "no comm" with the BCM. I should have known about the PCM. I've read my friend's C5 manuals awhile back and I knew I will need the BCM to get the car started. However when I decided to send the PCM in for reprogramming I thought I didn't need it. So I cut it out. The good thing is I still have it. So tomorrow I will get the wiring info off my friend's manual and rewire it back in. I will update all the info on my page once I get it running. Anyway I found the section in the manual that mentioned about the BCM. I will post it here for you all to read. Later. PASS-Key Programming The service BCMs EEPROM chip must be programmed with the proper RPO configurations by using a scan tool. The EEPROM stores information regarding the vehicle options and point of sale. If the BCM is not properly configured with the correct RPO codes, the BCM will set default values for some systems, which could cause malfunctions in other systems. When the BCM is replaced, the BCM must be programed to identify the following information: Real Time Damping (RTD) Memory Options Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Front Fog Lamps Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) HVAC (C60-Manual, CJ2-Automatic) Country of Sale (US, Canada, Europe, Japan, etc.) The BCM sends password information to the PCM on the serial data line to enable fuel for Content Theft Deterrent (CTD) functions, therefore, the PCM must also be programmed to accept the new password sent by the BCM. The BCM programming procedure will enable the learn password mode for both the BCM and PCM. This mode allows the PCM to learn the new password sent by the BCM whenever the BCM or PCM is replaced. If the BCM and PCM is not properly programmed together, the vehicle will exhibit a no start condition and the PCM will store a DTC P1631. When an ignition key or the BCM is replaced, the BCM must be programmed to accept the resistance value of the new or existing vehicle keys in order to allow PASS-Key® operation. When the BCM is replaced, the service replacement BCM is programmed to accept the first PASS-Key® resistance value detected. If the BCM is unable to detect a valid PASS-Key® resistance value, the BCM will never end the programming sequence and a DTC B2735 will set. The BCM can also be programmed to accept a new PASS-Key® code by completing the following BCM/PASS-Key® programming procedure: Important: Before proceeding with this programming procedure, check for proper communications between the BCM and PCM. If communications cannot be established, refer to the appropriate Diagnostic System Check for the system unable to communicate. Maintain the battery voltage while the PCM is in the Auto Learn Procedure. Follow this procedure exactly as indicated or you will have to repeat the procedure from the beginning. Manual Programming (Domestic/Canada Only) Using a Tech 2, select New BCM Setup and program the BCM with the correct RPO code configuration. Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF for 11 minutes. Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds. Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF for 11 minutes. Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds. Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF for 11 minutes or until DTC P1630 sets. Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds. Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF and wait 30 seconds. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine does not start, Refer to the Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check in Engine Controls. Important Performing this procedure may cause a DTC P1630 to set. If a DTC P1630 sets, turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds, then turn ON the ignition. If the DTC P1630 does not clear, Refer to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check in Engine Controls. Tech 2 to Techline Terminal Using a Tech 2, select New BCM Setup and program the BCM with the correct RPO code configuration. Enter the Service Programming System (SPS) using a Tech 2. Enter the vehicle information. Choose the Request Info soft key on the Tech 2. Select Done. Follow the instructions on the Vehicle Set-up screen. Disconnect the Tech 2 from the vehicle. Connect the Tech 2 to the Techline terminal. At the Techline terminal select Service Programming System (SPS) and select terminal to Tech 2 programming method. Select Done. Follow the instructions on the remaining screens. Select the Vehicle Theft Re-learn option. Select Program at the summary screen. The terminal will download information to the Tech 2. Return the Tech 2 to the vehicle. Connect the Tech 2 to Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC). Select Service Programming from the Tech 2 main menu. Answer the prompts regarding the model year and vehicle type. Press the Theft Re-learn soft key on the Tech 2. Follow the instructions on the remaining screens. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine does not start, Refer to the Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check in Engine Controls. Important Performing this procedure may cause a DTC P1630 to set. If a DTC P1630 sets, turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds, then turn ON the ignition and P1630 clears. If the DTC P1630 does not clear, Refer to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check in Engine Controls. Techline Terminal to Vehicle (No Tech 2) Using a Tech 2, select New BCM Setup and program the BCM with the correct RPO code configuration. Enter the Service Programming System (SPS) using a Techline Terminal (T-50/T-60). Select terminal to vehicle programming. Select Done. Follow the instructions on the Vehicle Set-up screen. Select the Vehicle Theft Re-learn option. Follow the instructions on the remaining screens. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine does not start, Refer to the Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check in Engine Controls. Important Performing this procedure may cause a DTC P1630 to set. If a DTC P1630 sets, turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds, then turn ON the ignition. If the DTC P1630 does not clear, Refer to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check in Engine Controls.

He said I hooked up something wrong. Right the way I know that is BS. I used the whole C5 wiring harness completely hooked up the under hood fuse box. From the fuse box there are a few big wires going straight thru the ignition. All I did was splice in the power wires from the Z's ignition to the fuse box. Anyway Jesse told me to get a code reader to get the code off the PCM. Since I am using the C5's instrument cluster I can use it to get the code. I just got the procedure "how to read the code" off the Corvette forum. Will let you guys know what I find tonight.

Just found out something too. The C5 has something call PASS-key which works like another VATs system. That will cut out the fuel also. I am looking at a picture of the original wiring harness and I am sure that I didn't cross the wires for the MAP and CPS. Will read the code tonight when I get home

Hi Dale, Can you tell me the color wires that go to the MAP sensor? I checked the display on the instrument cluster and it says "Reduce Engine Power". I talked to Jesse and he said he did disabled the VATS system and the car should start up. I talked to another friend of mine and he said sound like he didn't disable the PASS-key system. I thought the PASS-key integrated into the VATS system. Can someone verify this? Anyway I am waiting for my nephew to return my code reader so I can read the code off the PCM. That should tell me what's missing or what's wrong.

Mike, I just check the wires for the 2 sensors you mentioned above. Can you tell me the color wires that go to the MAP and the CPS. The MAP sensor is the one on top and the CPS is at the bottom. I check the wire to these sensors and even if I want to hook it up wrong I can't because of the wire length. The wire to the MAP sensor won't reach CPS but I just want to make sure. Also if the 2 plugs were wrong the car shouldn't run at all right? Thanks for your help.

Nah.. it won't work for the C5 PCM.

Yeah that's what I am thinking too. If I can find someone close by with a running PCM I can try out then I can make some complaint to Jesse. If not how else can I prove it to him? I got all the grounds behind the block connected. I will double check the connectors to the CPS and the MAP sensor. I thought these 2 sensors (in the back of the engine) have different plugs. It's sucks that I have to wait til Monday to contact Jesse. Thanks for the response.

Hi guys, I am using a 1998 C5 PCM for my LS1 swap. I got Jesse from Wait4Me Performance to flash my PCM to remove the VATS. However my car will run for a short second then shuts off. At one time it ran for like 3 seconds and then shut off. I think the PCM is shutting the fuel and ignition off due to missing signals from other control modules. Anyone got away with using the C5 PCM in your swap? I have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and the pressure was good. I have all the sensors hooked up except for the O2 sensors. I've read the C5 service manual and it said that the PCM needs to receive some signals from other control modules thru the serial lines in order to keep the car running. Anyone has any idea what's happening? Please help. Thanks in advance. V. PS. I will have to call Jesse on Monday to check. I did mentioned to him that I am using the C5 PCM.

If you get the right offset you can fit up to 10" wide rims in the back. But then who sells 10" wide rims with 4 lugs now aday unless you pay like 5K for a custom set.

tried it today and it didn't work. I can get it to display 1/2 full or empty. I saw it jump to full one time and couldn't reproduce it after that. Ah I will let this thing wait. I will concentrate getting the car start up first.

Thank you Mike, That's what I am looking for. Now I have to find out how to bypass 1 signal

Mark, I don't have the cluster in the dash yet. I have to do some modification to my fiberglass dash to fit it in. For now I just hook it up for testing and hopefully get the car started soon. Right now I have a bigger problem then the Z sender itself. The C5 uses 2 fuel tanks and 2 different sensors. The PCM uses both inputs and then sends the data to the cluster thru the DLC (serial line). So first I have to figure out how to get rid of one of the inputs and then I have to get the Z sender to work with that input. Anyway worst case scenerio I will just hook up a different fuel gauge that can read the Z sender some where else. I just spent some money to redo my stock tank so I have no intention of going with any other fuel tank. Also I don't want hack up the car if I don't have to. I am getting ready to send out my PCM for removing the VATS and other unused stuffs. I should be able to start up the car after that. I have some pics in the link in my Sig. Thanks for the responses.

Just Jim, I have no problem with this: "The ZX Turbo and non turbo CV shafts are apparently the same thing. I just put some ZX non Turbo CV shafts and 25 spline companion flanges in my 240Z.The parts came out of a '83 280ZX at my local Pic A Part yard." But there is something wrong with this: "The passenger side CV assembly was too long so I swapped out the passenger side splined part that goes into the diff to a shorter drivers side CV assembly and things are fine.So it actually takes two drivers sides and one passenger side to do the swap." The longer shaft supposed to be on the driver side. If you put it on the passenger side then that's why you had the problem. I suggest you to check if the driver side shaft is snapped in the differential.

How can it goes in too far if you said it snapped in? I don't get it. Unless you are not using the correct axles with correct input shafts. Anyway I have no experience with Nismo LSDs. I installed 3 LSDs in my Zs and never had problem with the axle grinding anything.

Guys, I need some help with the Z's fuel sending unit. Have anyone put a fuel sending unit from another car into a 280Z's tank? I have a problem with my fuel sending unit. I am using a C5 cluster so I have to convert the Z's sending unit to the C5. The problem is the C5 got the opposite reading ie. 40 Ohm = Empty and 250 Ohm=Full. On the Z 90 Ohm=Empty and 8 Ohm=Full. I did a search and Pete P. wrote a nice little article to shift the resistance to another level. However for what I need the signal needs to be inverted which won't work with Ohm's Law. I guess it's time me to go search in the junkyards lol with an Ohm meter. Thanks for any help guys. Vinh