VinhZXT

Barbom, No.. I didn't put anything between. I guess you figured it out. I cut the middle piece and bolt the 2 ends up then I just put a 1" bar accross and pull it toward the back a little to give it some slack between the cover and the new cross bar. Then weld it in to the old mounts (both front and back). Very simple and very effective. GL. Vinh

There are plenty of very very fast cars and they are all running EFI my friends. How reliable is your carb? How many MPH does your carb will give you? Electronics don't just go bad by themselves oops yes they do but rarely. How much work do you have to do on to your carb when you upgrade your motor? Is it as simple as changing some numbers on a program on a computer. Why would you want to pay for the rewire? The LS1 came with the stand alone harness. Just all the sensors that you have to worry about. If you upgrade the motor just play with the right numbers and you are there. As far as I know you can turbo an EFI a lot easier compare to a turbo. Nothing beat the controls of electronics compare to manuals $hit (carb). But whatever float your boat my friends.

Here is the Al radiator that I used in my 77 280Z 6-568AE-BAX. This radiator has the tranny cooler builtin so it cost more. If you have an M6 you can get the same one without the tranny cooler and it will be cheaper. The measurement for this radiator is 25 3/4" X 19". Fit the 280 perfect with about 1/8 each each side to spare.

Lason, Why carb? The computer for these motor is cheap. Only $100. EFI is a lot more reliable compare to carb and you can turbo it easier than carb. Easier to tune with EFI also. I had VRJoe stopped by my garage to day and we just had this discussion. Why do carburetors even exist now aday? But then again it is your project. Good luck.. Vinh

There is an easy way fix for this. I just did it for my LSD rear. A picture worth a thousand words. Here it is. Let me know if you have any more question. It's an easy fix BTW. Vinh

Thanks for all the positive responses guys. I am taking this as a small victory because I still have plenty of works to do with this car. It is nice to be able to start it up when my buddies come over to see what I've been working on. Thanks again all. Vinh

PopNwood, I don't think you can set the motor back any more than where I had it. Yes the measurements for the new crossmember still correct. Don't forget the further back the motor the more the stock GM alternator will interfere with the lower steering joint. What I did was strip all the accesories and set my motor where it suppose to be. Then I search around for alternator to fit where it can and then fab up the mounts. my plan is to make this into a show car and will probably drive it very little so I won't be needing the AC. If you want more measurements from my setup I can get them all down with pictures to help you with your swap. Let me know. PS. if you guys want drive by wire function use the 99 and up C5 PCM. There is something tricky about the 97-98 C5 PCM and they don't work in stand alone mode. Vinh

Thank you all. I have a fiberglass dash that I bought from VRJoe and I will hack it up to fit the gauge cluster in there. I saved a ton of work and money by using the C5 cluster. No need to convert all the sensors' signals. The only sensor I have to worry about is the fuel level sensor. I am so excite right now. Time to compile a list of things to do next.

Hi all, I finally got my Ls1 running. I've been battling with the 98 C5 PCM. It's a long story and I will put all the info on my web page if you are interested you can go to link at the bottom. I am using a 99 and up C5 PCM and it works. Here is a video http://youtube.com/watch?v=RC9YyKNK66E Time for all the fun stuffs... Vinh

Lason, Nice work. You are on the right track. GL I just got my JCI mounts and JTR headers today. I also got my C5 swap project running tonight after 3 hours plus rewiring the PCM connectors. What a feeling when it stays running for longer than 5 seconds. I have a video coming. Vinh Here is the video http://youtube.com/watch?v=RC9YyKNK66E

Hi Bill, Thanks again for the info. Lason, The measurements of the crank to the frame rails depend on a big part of where the tail of your transmission will be. If you move the tail to the driver side then your offset will increase in the front. I've made some measurements of the tail end of the stock L6 relative to the frame rails also. When I put the LS1 in I did the same measurements and make sure the front and back measurements are close to the L6 measurement as possible.

Bill, Thanks for the info again. York is about an hour and half from Philly. I only go out to York to the outlets for shopping. I remember why I had problem with my GM alternator. It couldn't fit on the lower driver side because #1 I used a C5 motor and the crank pulley is closer to the block compare to the Fbody motor. This caused the alternator to move back further and it ended up sitting on top of my lower steering joint. #2 because I have my motor sitting almost up against the firewall so that the header will clear my steering shaft. This also contribute to the alternator problem. My friend wants to get his swap done before the winter and I want to make sure I don't have to fab up anything for his car. The JCI mounts should be here sometime this week. Thanks again for the info. Vinh

Bill, Thanks for the measurements. I guess it is close enough to the original. It should be good enough.

M1noel, it took me 8 years to start my project. I just spend a few hours to go thru the stock Camaro EFI harness and label all the wires I need to connect and cut all the wires I won't need. Maybe I should take some pictures and do a little write up while I am doing this. Again if anyone needs wiring info on any car please send me an email. I have this Service Information software that a friend of mine gave to me. This is the software the techs used to repair customers' cars. I admit it doesn't have everything but it does has some stuffs the service manuals don't.

Hi Bill, Please measure from the center of the crank to the frame rails. Also what year is your car? Both of mine and my friend's Z are 77 models. The stock L6 crankshaft is about 3/4" offset to the passenger side, relative to the center line between the frame rails. I just looked at DaleMX photos and the motor looks like it shifted to the passenger side a lot. I ordered the JCI mounts already. I guess I will find out how good the mounts are and where the motor will be soon. Thank you. Vinh

LS1 guys, My friend just bought a 2001 Camaro LS1 with the M6 trans. I will be ordering the JCI mounts for my friend since I don't want to fab up the mounts for him. I am wondering with the JCI mounts where does it put the motor? What I mean is the position of the center of the crankshaft compare to the center line of the 2 frame rails. I am asking this because I've made my own mounts before for my swap and I put the crankshaft where the original L6 crankshaft would be, in the horizontal plane. I couldn't fit the GM alternator on the driver side. If someone has the motor in the car can you measure the distant between the frame rails to the crankshaft for me? Thanks for the info. Vinh

That crack is from my other Z hitting it. I had sheet metal behind the fiberglass. I had the front spoiler molded into the front fenders and I got hit many times and it still holding very good. This was my first car that I learned how to use fiberglass and it turned out pretty good. My next project can use some good fiberglass technics to hold fiberglass to metal. If you notice carefully I also cut the stock hood and made the scoop out of it. I used fiberglass there and it didn't withstand the heat too well and showed a little crack there. Thanks to the airbrush you can't really see the cracks lol. If I have to do it over I will definitely weld some metal to form the shape and then use fiberglass to smooth it out. Good luck Vinh

Before you start check to see how much rusts you have on that car. I had planned to do my V8 Z 8 years ago and I went out and keep searching for a clean shell. Fortunately I found one with very little rusts and I bought it and it been sitting in my garage since. During that time I was doing all my homeworks and I just got it started this year. There are plenty of info on 280ZX V8 swap on here. I haven't heard of an LS1 280ZX yet. Maybe you can be the first one to built it. Good luck Vinh.

Here is a web site with a bunch of pictures of my shaved rearend 280ZX. I did it back in 1998. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/721840/2 How about get rid of the 280ZX rear end altogether.. Here is my latest rear end converion on the 280ZX

This is good news. I have 2 Q45 differentials in my garage. I will check out Dave's page regularly for this. Vinh

I have a SI software that has info (wirings) for all vehicles. It is that simple to go thru the stock harness as long as you have the wiring diagrams for the PCM and pin out for all the connectors on the harness. Let me know if any of you need wiring diagrams for any vehicle. I am redoing a wiring harness for a 2001 Camaro for my friend's LS1 swap right now. Speartech is good but a bit too pricey IMO. There is another guy Jesse at Wait4Me performance, who does a flash for a lot cheaper. "I know- most of you weren't even born when I bought this car".. Is this comment really necessary. If you are trying to get some help I don't think you want to start out that way. I don't think you can buy that Z before 1978. I and a long with most of the people in here are born way before that.

Ben, The ZX Daytona Coupe kit doesn't look that good IMO. I've seen the yellow one someone mentioned above and it wasn't good and they wanted a ton of money for it. I now John Washington sold one more kit to another guy but I contacted him a few times and he never replied. I had the back half of this Daytona Kit on my ZX right now and it does improve the look of the ZX. I am not sure who built this kit that I bought but the quality was very bad. There are air pockets underneath the jell coat and when the sun hits it you can see the lumps now. I have to totally strip down the jell coat and fill it up with plastic. Lots of work. The reason I didn't go with the complete kit because in my opinion the front of the ZX looks good just the way it is. The ZX just needs to change the look on the rear. Anyway you can look at some pictures of my ZX in the link in my sig. I also have the Cobra Daytona Coupe Kit for the Z also. This is my next project.

Awhile back I was trying to hook up my friend's hybrid Z. He got a 350 in an earlier 260z or possibly 240z. In either case I followed JTR direction and was very confuse. Why would you want to stick the inners of the 280Z tach inside the 240z housing? Why not just use the whole 280z tach and housing? Can you someone explain this? I might have to go back and check this out again so I can get it working for my friend. Thanks for any help.

Thank you Davy. I used the email address that was in my mail box. I am not sure that's the same email address from the MM web site. I used to have his phone number but I lost it. I will wait couple more days and email him again. Thanks again Vinh

Hi all, Any body has Ross's phone number? I emailed him couple times and he never replied my email. Please send me his number thru PM if you have it. Thanks Vinh