VinhZXT

I am not whining on the spending at all. I was just surprise that it costs an extra 3k for the miscellaneous stuffs to get the car to a point where it's drivable. I am actually enjoying building/customizing cars because I know at the end it will pay off. There is no better feeling when you drive the car you built out on the street and people just nod their heads and give you thumbs up. Plus I've been driving old zcars for the past 15 years and did all the works on these cars so I saved a ton of money comparing to buying new cars and maintenance. So I can spend 30K into my project if I have to and it still be OK because at the end with the look and performance it will spank a lot of newer cars out there.

Clive, Save your money. The Fbody harness is a stand alone harness already. It took me an hour or 2 to label and cut all the wires I don't need. Again I have the wiring diagrams and connectors info on all the GM cars. Let me know if anyone needs any info on wirings. If not send me the harness and I can label and hook up relays, fuses for a plug and play for you. Vinh

That's the reason why I keep dumping money into my Z project. That is also why my friend is willing to pay 20K to finish up his Cobra.

Thank you for the compliments Mike. Here is another video showing how low the exhaust and the sound of the exhaust. Check out who is helping me started up the car and raised the RPM. That is my son Jonathan. He did a good job pushing down the clutch to start the car lol. He is an exellent helper BTW. Enjoy guys. Vinh

I just finished up my friend's LS1 engine swap and I am adding up the receipts. A little over 3000 just for the parts to complete engine and everything including the exhaust. Here is the list: The LS1 drive train was $5000. 1. Engine and trans mount kits from JCI - $430 - 2. JTR headers - $475 3. Flash the PCM - $40 4. C5 FPR/filter - $50. 5. O2 sensor bungs - $5 6. Paint for the engine compartment - $60 7. Aluminum radiator (BCI-65002) - $270 8. Electric fan (FLX-118) - $130 9. Groove pulley and belt - $40 10. Relays, fuses and batt connectors - $50 11. Fuel line/FPR fitting, connectors and clamps - $75 12. Sidepipes WLK-89300 - $310 13. JTR T fitting for steam line - $30 14. Speedometer ATM-4489 - $200 15. Tachometer ATM4498 - $130 16. Clutch master cylinder PN# 15033924 - $140 17. Radiator hoses - $40 18. Drive shaft shorten and balance - $340 19. U bends for exhaust system - $50 20. Nuts and bolts for trans xmember - $10. 21. Water temp sensor - $17 22. Radiator cap and coolant $15. 23. Oil pressure sensor and adaptors - $30 24. Corvette air intake duct - $40 25. Cone air filter - $30 26. Exhaust flanges and gaskets - $30 27. Trans fluid - $10 BTW I just added up the receipts for my project and it's over 15K already and it's no where near complete.

Larry, Thanks for the pictures. I have different mounts on my friend's side pipes. I had them on rubber mountings and I didn't feel like they needed flex pipes. I also didn't want to notch the frame because I have to support it (waste more time). The side pipes on this car are sitting higher then yours. They are 1" below the door. However the pipes going under the frame rails are low plus I had the flanges near there too so they make the whole thing even lower. On my car that I will be working on the exhaust I will notch the frame and weld 2 1/4" plates one on each side of the frame. Then build a bridge and bolt it in to the 2 plates. ahhh maybe I will go back and do it for my friend's car as well.

Thanks for the comments guys. When I took the car out there were no one around. After the burn out they came over to check the car out. The goal is to get this car completed by next spring. This car just need a paint job and interior work. Mario, This is my friend's Cobra. Mine is the one I am using the C5 cluster. vinh

Wayne, Your wiring is nothing compare to mine. Check mine out. Before: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2079000-2079999/2079260_58_full.jpg After http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2079000-2079999/2079260_69_full.jpg Mm1noel, Have no fear hybridZ is here. I officially done 2 LS1 wiring harness and both cars ran. GL Vinh

Larry, I got the side pipes and they are hanging real low. I didn't realize it until I drop the car down. I did a good job on the exhaust but I am really disappointed because it is too low. I think I will have to notch the frame on my car when I work on the exhaust. DavyZ, This is my friend's Cobra.

Hi guys, I finished with my friend's LS1 engine conversion. Here are a few videos of the short drive. Have fun. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGx5NpBv8qM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uO8s1uuCdCg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRWvTKa4adc

You are in a whole lot of trouble here with the RHD. In order for the right side header to clear the steering shaft the collector on the header needs to be offset to the rear. There is a problem with this because it will hit the starter. The best solution I see for you is to use steering U-joint and pivot bearing to move the steering shaft away from everything. GL Vinh

#1 - The 280ZX body is wider than the earlier Z. so that air dam won't fit. If you want to fit it in a ZX then you have to make a cut in the middle and expand it. then add fiberglass to bridge the middle gap. #2. The earlier Zs looks OK without the bumper but the ZXs without bumper just look butt ugly IMO.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120039991238&fromMakeTrack=true

I just found a set of the stock C5 exhaust manifold before I modified them. You can see the above pictures that I got pleny of room on both sides with these headers. They are stainless steel too.

Cho, Sound like it's a common problem. Check the power and ground to both gauges first. How did you wire your gauges? did you run all new wires or did you use the old wires from the harness? The tach has the existing wire to the gauge already. You have to check for continuity from the gauge to the connectors and mark it. I know there are couple wires looked almost the same. For the speedo you have to run a new wire from the gauge to the connector. I used one of the old wire from 1 of the blinker for the speedo. GL Vinh

Recheck your wiring. Check out my web site. I just did this to my friend's car. You have to set the switches in the back for 4 cylinder to get an accurate tach reading. Here is my web site: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/8 GL. Vinh

My mount is like Jeromio's mount also and I am using the stock 98 C5 headers. Trust me these headers are good stuffs. You have to modify these headers for them to fit. They might not work with the JCI mounts because of the driver side might rub the steering shaft. GL. Vinh PS. here are couple of pix.

Here it is: Low speed fan (fan #1) - Dk GRN - Blue 42 Hi speed fan (fan #2 and #3 control) - Dk BLU - Red 33

I am assuming you want to use them for an LS1 swap. Which mounts do you use? I used the stock 98 C5 headers and modify them to work with my swap. They should work with the JCI mounts. More info on my web page. I think the Z06 stock headers are cast iron. Mine are stainless steel.

Cho, Which year car's PCM do you use? I can tell you which wire is lo speed and which is hi speed. Let me know the year and make the PCM.

Pop, I have the C5 motor also. If your motor sits further back than mine the steering shaft should clear the left mount. I had to cut the skinny leg from the left mount and grind a little bit to get 1/4 inch gap between the mount and the steering shaft. Here is a pic I had the alternator on the driver side for awhile and I later didn't like the way it looked so I moved it to the passenger side. This will make it look a lot cleaner. Of course the trade off is you have to go with the electric water pump. Something for you to think about there. GL Vinh Edit: From your picture looks like you don't even have to cut the skinny leg on that mount. You can grind it off a bit and it should clear.

Pop, Yeah I forgot about the routing of the belt if you put the alt on the passenger side. If I remember correctly you have no room to put it up high unless you want to put it above the valve cover. I have another picture where I had the GM alternator on the driver side. It should work with the stock belt route and the brackets are easy to make. Here is the pic

The Honda alternator fits on the passenger side of my motor perfectly. it will be a lot harder to make the brackets to mount the honda alternator on the driver side. Here are pictures of my alternator mounts for the honda alternator. I can give the measurements of the mounts if you want to do this way. Let me know Here is a picture of the honda alt mounted with these brackets

Does it count if mine is moving under its own power? lol. I just got mine moving on its own power today. I just finish up the rear disk brakes also. I consider the ls1 swap is done and now moving on to the next stage .. body kit. Waiting to get my side pipes from ffcobra.

OK got them both in tonight. Yup I had to remove the rear mounting bolts of the A-arms then twist the arm out a bit to get them in. I didn't hav to remove the front bolts of the A-arm. This helped puting the arm back very easy. V8Z, Wow remove the strut mounting bolts sound like a big deal for this. Thanks for the responses. Vinh