dangerboy

Nice looking Z, congratulations on your purchase. I have a set of tail lights from a 280z laying around if you're interested. Just shoot me a PM. shawn

I have a complete intake for sale from a 71 240z. Air filter housing, 2 round top carbs, and intake manifold. Just PM me if you're intersted. shawn

I have an early 260z shell that will be headed to the scrap yard shortly. If you're interested I could cut off the section to replace this portion on your car. Shawn

I'm not local to you by a long shot but i could pull the set off of my 260 shell if you want them. It's a 6/74 260z incase there are any differances. shawn

I have these out of a 71 240z. I'm not sure if it is a series 1 but i do know the seats did not recline and the rear hatch had vertical defroster lines. If it's possible these are the right pieces let me know and ill snap some pictures for you. shawn

i have a plastic lower lip that came off of my 71 240z. The previous owner had it fastened to the lower valance with self tapping screws but the holes wouldnt be noticable unless you were on your back with your head by the bumper.

I may be premature in saying this but it seems that if you made this post in the Events forum there should be no problem. I live in NoVa and i am curious what my v8 280z is putting to the wheels so i would love to see this event happen. Not to mention getting advice and opinions from local people with much more knowledge than me. GL

If you find that the EMT pipe is flimsy or fails at supporting you you should look into Kendorf. I dont know if Home Depot carries it because i get it through an electrical supply house but it will definatly hold up and they make alot of differant brackets for angels and such. Much like a larger Erector Set.

I have a 77 space saver spare if you want. Shipping would be from 20112. Make me an offer.

I have the spare tire from my 77 280z if youre interested. Shipping would be from 20112. I also have can of air from my 71 240 to fill it up with. Seriously though, let me know if you want it.

that cars been on craigslist forever so you can probably talk him down a bit just to get rid of it at this point

heres my new built 350 280z, its a crappy night pic but i was so excited i couldnt wait, ive wanted a v8 z for 10 years and now i have one. its not without needing work but its much closer than my last 2 attempts so im very happy overall.

i pulled the engine and trans about 2 weeks ago and after cleaning the front rails found them to have a ripple from the accident. the wire wheel also showed me that the passenger side frame rail is severly pitted and has 2 holes in it where it meets the firewall. i know they sell new rails but its not a repair id feel comfortable with myself. and to get the rails fixed and still have a jacked up front end makes me wonder if i should just find another to start with and sell all the parts i have laying around.

C&C Motorsports in manassas va seems to be a very reputible company, ive heard lots of good things about them from people i know that had engines bored out and built. its probably an hour and a half from richmond on a day with no traffic though.

i was kind of thinking the same thing but i dont have the knowledge at the moment to know if what i think will be good really will. so to answer your question, yes i will be bracing the struts.

my 260 has some pretty bad damage to the radiator support and the piece infront of it that the fender bolts in to. when the fender was on it seemed to fit ok so im not worried about the cosmetics of it. im attempting a v8 swap but was concerned about increasing the potential for weakness/failure that this damage could cause. has anyone repaired this kind of damage, can a custom made piece be used or a donor? thanks in advance for any advice or cautions. shawn

that is the piece, im so used to no responses that i hadnt checked this thread. i had found that piece w/ the lovely search function but thanks for the heads up nevertheless.

ugh, says my last post was 4 weeks ago and that just makes me sad. the dmv is long finished though random bs seems to keep pulling me away from my cars. ive been scrapping and sanding and came to the conclusion that something happened to the drivers side of the car because the inner wheel well and everything forward looked totally crumpled. i hammered it out as best as i could but it still displeases me. the frame rail is still straight and solid though so im not too worried about it. besides itll all look perfect from under the fender, and all of your houses. i bought a larger air compressor this weekend as well as a cut off tool. ive since removed the metal under the battery tray and some metal in the area above the tail light panel. incase anyone is reading this btw, i was wondering how important the dip in the piece above the tail light panel is or if i can just replace it with a straight piece of metal and still have the hatch close like it should. hopefully ill have a day to take some pics soon because im sure the pictures in your guys heads dont do the horror of all of this justice. or perhaps they make my struggle seem insignificant...

lol, this has become semantics, use whatever wire you want

he would be connecting the equipments ground to the neutral so touching the case wouldnt have any effect. i dont need to check my local codes because im an electrician. unless the panel in his house is a "sub-panel" which i doubt, the grounds and neutrals are going to be side by side on the neutral bar anyway, so even a neutral would use the wire connected to the ground rods outside, or the cold water ground were it to be the path of least resistance.

the neutral and the ground both go to the same place in your panel so its either or, the ground doesnt even begin untill its generated from the meterbase. it seems this topic has become severly overcomplicated for such a simple thing.

when you convert from a 4 wire plug to a 3 wire plug you can cap off or just push back the bare or green wire. this is the ground and it is merely an additional emergency path for the electricity. consider it like a 2nd chute for a skydiver. when my roomate bought his welder we made our own extension cord for it with like 30' of SO cord, a welding recepticle, and an FS box. we hardwired the other end to the panel but you could just as easily put a plug end on it and plug it into your converted dryer outlet. all these parts are at lowes/home depot and i believe it was actually labeled as a "welding recepticle" good luck. also, if you have 2 electric dryers each one will be its own circuit unless the wiring of your house was done by people completing community service...

a pic of the 260 (red) and the 240 (blue) before i started tearing them apart...

i will pull the one off the 240 and try to clean it with air and water. would it be a bad idea to use any kind of detergent with the water like Dawn or something else?

so i pulled the master cylinder off my 260z today due to the massive amount of gunk visable when the caps were opened. i disconnected the hard line at the caliper the other day and clean fluid came out so i think the build up is isolated to the cylinder. anyway, my question is what would be the best way to clean the gunk out of the master cylinder. i scraped out what i could with a flathead screwdriver and sprayed the rest in carb cleaner. i only ask because if a good cleaning is all this needs id much rather do that than purchase another one. thanks in advance.