280zwitha383

yeah, there's a slew of image capture programs. Just type "free screen capture" into google and I'm sure you could wade through all of them for a substantial amount of time. That's just the way I do it because you don't have to have additional programs and I am somewhat of a minimalist.

I thought I posted this earlier before I went to work but it's not here or in the tool shed (haha). I ordered this pump but when I looked at it there's no fuel return and I thought I heard before that you should get one with a return because they are better for whatever reason. This pump said it was for a 327 with a holley. When we looked at the psi output charts it showed to be the highest one with 9psi at idle and 7 at WOT (I think WOT is what the lower rating was at). The others started at 7psi and their WOT was around 5. I can't justify paying close to $100 for a holley or edelbrock pump so I figured I would try a better stock one. Has anyone used this pump or does anyone have any suggestions which one to use. I'm only running a 670cfm carb on my 383 but every since I put the dual exhaust on it cuts out between 5.5k and 6k. Thanks

NP. This will work with anything on your (whole) screen. Hit Ctrl and Prt Scrn at the same time. This puts the image in your clipboard (same as clicking copy on text or pictures). Then open up a program (which can edit pictures) and paste it into it. I use powerpoint or OpenOffice's Impress. With Powerpoint I think you click File, save as, then in the save as box it says extension which you change to JPG. In Impress you simply right click the image and hit save as picture. Open Office is a free (yes free) alternative to Microsoft Office. You can keep all of your files the same format as Microsoft Office if you'd like. Plus the controls are very similar also. If that doesn't work tell me and I'll make sure about the Powerpoint. If you drag the picture out a little bit on powerpoint it will save the image bigger than the ones I posted which are marginal. You could also do this in Paint for that matter. Just make sure you change the extension to jpg when you save it otherwise it will save the image as a bitmap and it will be a few mb's as opposed to 100kb or so.

It has 7 domestic engine categories (chevy,ford, buick, olds, etc) and 14 foreign engine categories including 2.4, 2.6, 2.8 datsun engines, lambo, mercedes, VW..... The only real problem you run into is not having the flow charts for heads you want to try and not having all the info on the cam. Regardless, it's a good tool to use if you're getting started so you kinda know what changes do what. http://search.ebay.com/desktop-dyno_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8

I have to absolutely disagree that vortec heads are only good for 350hp. That said, they're not what you're looking for definitely. Roller cam? (with vortec heads) Same except with AFR 190 heads (I think they've come out with newer ones but just for comparisons sake) According to the flow charts I have, both heads peak at 500 lift so this should be right on I think

Best of luck to you. I really like it that you're diving into the deep end already without knowing a whole lot about everything (insert smiley with large cahonas here).You are REALLY going to have to do your homework because you're REALLY going to have to stay on top of this s/c whatever and if you don't already have someone to mentor you locally then I would suggest finding someone. As far as the cranks, unless I'm missing something 400 cranks should be the same regardelss of rods. It should be the pistons that have the wrist pins make up the difference.

Definite props on the carnage

A guy in a nearby city told me he was putting a 327 in his 240z. About a year later I began my swap and cam across this site on google.

Gretchen/Jason, I apologize for the tangent in your thread.

Ok, that's too vague to really respond to... The more air you move through an engine the more power it produces period. So yes in an oversimplified example this is an effective way to measure power output. You can very affectively calculate hp from HEAD FLOW (ALSO IN CFMS!). I REALLY don't know how you can make an argument for powerband AND less stroke/cubic inches at the same time. Sure with a smaller stroke you can run a little more compression or at the same compression not be as likely to detonate. However, ignition timing is simply part of a matched combo and is not really relevant to our argument IMO. For drag racing I would love to have a 434 in an 1800lb car. If you could distribute the weight in a track car it would be pretty impressive also. Quite a bit huh? Exactly how much is quite a bit in OUR world. You can't really compare the engines we have in our cars to F1 engines. How often do you have to rebuild an F1 engine under "normal" use? How much money does one of those cost? Why do you suppose 331s aren't big anymore? Concerning my little piece of the pie, why don't we at least keep our conversation limited to what is realistic, affordable, and reliable for something that people on this site might actually put in their cars. At the very least I have attempted at some hard evidence that destroking an engine is not beneficial for the most part. I would really like to know at least a hypothetical answer to my question. How many net rpms do you propose you could gain from destroking an engine? Do you not even buy that you would have to crank the destroked engine even higher to compensate for the lack of stroke/cubic inches? Like I say, if you could safely gain 2500 rpms I think you would start benefiting from it. It wouldn't live as long as a similarly powered bigger stroke engine but I could appreciate it none the less.

I played around a little with the cfm calculator here: http://golenengineservice.com/calc/calccarb.htm Basically what I came up with just as a comparison is that between a 327 and a 350 the 327 has to turn 500 more rpms to equal the 350 (at 500 less rpms): 350 @ 7000rpms = 708cfms @ 100%VE 327 @ 7500rpms = 709cfms @ 100%VE This is actually not AS significant as I thought. However, you have to remember that the 350 will make more power up to its 7,000rpms. I guess the catalyst is how many NET rpms you would actually gain from destroking. When I say net I'm referring to the difference between a similarly built stock-stroke engine and a built destroked engine. Do you think that with good internals you could really rev a destroked engine THAT much more than it's counterpart? I am not saying that it's not doable because it is, but IMO it's bordering on counterproductive in a best case scenario especially considering that with the same money you could have at the very least equal power (at fewer rpms) with a properly matched setup.

Oh man, I didn't mean to start a discussion.... Is that even probable/logical? Why would decreasing your cubic inches/stroke make it more probable to make more power at any rpm? Why not make what you have turn the rpms you desire? Why do you desire high rpms? Again is that even probable/logical? How many more rpms would you have to pull to compensate for the loss of displacement. Making more rpms on a smaller motor does not mean that you will need more air than a larger motor making fewer rpms. And, really how many rpms are you talking about gaining? 1000? 1500? In my mind I cannot justify it under normal circumstances. With the money and time spent on destroking the engine you could have just as easily made the original combination handle the same rpms. You could absolutely make the original combination just as efficient.

So did it have the stock jetting when you were having the problems? I just can't imagine a stock 750dp running that lean.

http://www.mortec.com/

I need one and they have a variety on ebay with different years some overlapping and whatnot. It seems to me like they would all be the same???

We need one for when people post pictures that are too big also.

Icewtr, was that with a 750?

Are you serious?!

Destroking is a nono

Oh yeah, the guy was also like I've seen you had two accidents. I was like in my life?! He just said yeah. I didn't say anything but the two accidents that I had were 5 years before when this happened. I didn't want to tell the guy that I had the radio cranked but maybe I should have.

The accelerator pump will not do (all of) what you're describing. Put a fuel pressure guage on it and see what it tells you. Does the car smoke or anything when you get on it? Do you have the floats set right? It is possible that your regulator is not set right and that you're either not getting enough fuel or you're making too much pressure and overpowering your floats. If it's not smoking and hurting your eyes I would just say that it's leaning out. One very likely thing I can think of right now is the firing order. It is possible to swap some wires and hardly tell the difference until you put a load on it.

What would keep you from putting a 400 crank in a 305? edit: (besides being a waste of money)

I got an exhibition of acceleration ticket. I had the radio up too loud and didn't notice that I chirped into second. I wasn't even halfway on the throttle either but the man pulled me over. He asked me what all that was about back there and I asked him what he was talking about because I honestly didn't know. That ticked him off and so I got a ticket.

As far as putting a load on the 383, it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Check fuel pressure and floats. What do you have the timing set at?