280zwitha383

IMO the T56 is what gives any engine combined with it outstanding gas mileage. I would like to see an LSx mated to a transmission without an overdrive and see what kind of gas mileage it really gets. There are multiple members on this board who have T56's and claim to be getting mid to low 20's with carbed 350's and 383's. Does anyone know what kind of mileage the LSx engines get with the 4L60?

Interesting that you point that out because nowhere is turbo mentioned. When I first saw it I assumed for some reason that it was turbo'd also (I assume you did too). I don't know if it's because there's a t (in t-tops) after the 280zx making your mind read 280zxt or if it's because you see turbo in his sig.

Do they monitor the sites you go to? If they see www.hidemyipaddress.net they might get a little supsicious. Is there a more blah address to a site/service like this that might help - try google

I put a regular fuel pump pushrod in my roller cam engine (and ran it for about 2 years).... Needless to say I'm waiting for my electric pump to come in... I knew about the distributor gear but NEVER thought about the fuel pump pushrod.

He means all of them are reading the same at whatever pressure stated.

Well I got schooled by a TA running 10psi on a remote turbo setup (said he had everything ready but didn't have the WG spring to run 15psi). He did have a LOT of money in the car. He said he should be in the mid 10's and I believe him...

You will probably get flamed for not searching (even though you may have) but it seems like a good question that may or may not have been answered in a simple, concise manner. I would say a good general answer is as follows: a T5 will hold up to a moderate build but will break under hard launches and shifts (who knows how much you could find one of these for), a T56 will hold up to a good amount of punishment, give you excellent gas mileage but cost a lot (say around $2k?) initially. There are older Muncie "rock crusher" transmissions that might be an option and have a reputation for being very strong. I don't know if they made some with overdrives but if you don't really care about gas mileage or high cruising rpms Muncie might be the way to go. You might find some people who still want a good amount of money for them seeing them as older and superior for whatever reason. Good luck and if you don't see this in this board anymore look under "The Tool Shed" .

Well of course with editing audio or video I could understand. Saving that many videos off of the internet (especially all of one subject like cars) becomes counterproductive because you end up not knowing what all you have IMO.

I'm on the Butt Dyno program as well. I am going to the track this weekend but that's still expensive (tuning).

Do you really have that much junk? I could understand if they're 5 10gig harddrives but with 100 and 200+ gb harddrives you would have to be a sick puppy to need all of that.

I would think with the transmission you have either disconnected or broken the kickdown cable (if these things even have one) or the vacuum line (which would cause the car to run poorly at low rpms). Ignition modules on these things are good at going out too.

What are you using those things for? 5 harddrives for two mobos???

I think you have things confused (you have me confused with what you say anyway). If you understand all of what I'm about to say then I apologize for explaining what you already know and you could just skip down to the question at the end: You set ignition timing with a timing light. It has nothing to do with where you left the engine before you put the distributor on. I'm assuming you're taking the distributor off because I don't know exactly what a 300zx optical ignition consists of. Anyway, what you need to do is get the engine to TDC. It helps if you take the spark plugs out because the compression in the cylinders makes the engine want to stop at different positions other than where you want it to. So you've got the engine set at TDC (your thumb is getting pushed off of the #1 cylinder so you're on the compression stroke and your timing mark on the pulley is at the "0" on your timing indicator). You take off the cap on the distributor and your rotor should be pointing directly at your #1 post on the cap. If it's pointing in the opposite way then you're 180 out and you should unbolt the distributor and turn the rotor towards #1 and make sure it seats before you bolt it down. Then you make sure all of your wires are on the right plugs/posts COUNTERCLOCKWISE on the cap. You should be able to start the car with the timing anywhere in the inch or so of the slot on the distributor. If you set it right as described and the car didn't start then you must be having other problems. If it starts then set the timing with a light WITH THE COMPUTER ADVANCE DISCONNECTED if you have it (not sure about 1980 but it will be a connector on the SIDE of the ignition module on the distributor) and you should be good to go if not atleast you know this part is right. Why did you go ahead and change the ignition to begin with? Were you having problems before or just looking to jumpstart your 300ZX ecu swap?

wow... yesterday I loosened one of the distributor mounting screws to put the ground wire that's usually on the top of the vacuum advance back on. I didn't realize it originally went on a screw on the vacuum advance until today. Anyway when I loosened that screw the rotor shaft must have gotten wedged a little bit and then caught 180 out the next time I tried to start it. I thought it was acting like it was 180 out but that wasn't really even a possibility in my mind. I set the thing to TDC and sure enough the rotor was pointing the wrong way. I spent a little over an hour on this sucker yesterday and 10 minutes today. I'm glad I figured it out though.

So my ZX has been running better than ever (bumped the timing up about 16 degrees from 2 degrees (haha), moved cam sprocket to the 2nd position putting the little indicator where it's supposed to be, replaced a bad injector and had 2 1/2" exhaust without the F'in cat installed). I've been getting 20-21mpg on the thing which is a good jump from getting between 15 and 17. Anyway, I still have a miss at idle so I thought I would pull the plugs and see how they looked becasue last time I did #2 was running rich so I figured there was something wrong with the injector and I replaced it. This time all the plugs looked good and were gapped right so I put everything back together and looked at a few other little things (vacuum lines, distributor cap and such) nothing that should have caused any problems (because the distributor cap only goes on one way). So I figure I'm done poking around and go to start the thing up. I'm cranking, no start and little bop bop out the exhaust. No biggie, I've swapped two spark plug wires (even though I'm 99% sure I did them one at a time). Except I didn't swap any of them. I went over it close to 10 times and I still don't have any idea what's wrong. After about an hour I gave up and went to the movies. It is a little strange to me that it's only backfiring out of the exhaust and not out of the intake. I've redone and undone everything I did and no change. I KNOW it's got to be something with the ignition/firing order but I can't get my mind around what it could be and unless I'm having temporary (or permanent the way this is going) insanity the spark plug wires are right. I didn't take them off of the cap and, on top of checking it an insane amount of times, I wrote the numbers on the wires close to the boot the previous time and put them back with those numbers (the previous time) and they're on the same cylinders now. This has got to be something simple I did on accident or forgot but I just can't imagine what it could be. Please help

Well, he could start a new business on the settlement money too....

They look like a spider's eyes.

I didn't read all of your first post but from what I understand you had a vibration past 85 mph with your 3.54 and now you have a vibration past 70 with your 4.11. In my mind this comes very close to ruling out the rearend as your problem. I don't know about the rest of your setup but I would suspect the transmission, maybe input shaft play or something of that nature. My truck does the same thing and the input and output shaft of the transmission have a lot of play. I went from 2.73 to 3.73 and started vibrating past 60 occasionally. In both cases since the engine doesn't vibrate at the same rpm in lower gears then it is most likely not the engine or anything attached to it (like the harmonic balancer or maybe loose mounts). It almost HAS to be the transmission. That's just the conclusion I've come to with my own personal vibration. Yours sounds similar and they're both 20+ year old transmissions unless you've redone yours or are running a different one.

Haha, as long as you keep the pebbles and humingbirds out it will be fine. When you say race filters does that mean you're going to eventually put something else on there or is that how you're going to run?

Yeah, still running a holley atleast on the 383. The more I think about jetting, power valves, acceletor pump, accelerator cam, secondary springs etc ... the easier I think it would be to tune with a laptop and wideband, even a narrowband. "Once you figure out your best setup" is the PROBLEM IMO. Not to belittle the calculator or your post at all. It looks like a good resource and I've never even seen a program that actually suggested jet sizes at all. Everyone just says each engine is different even if they're built exactly the same (which is true). I'm just ranting and wishing fuel injection stuff didn't cost as much.

I want. Are those custom filters?

The porshce lights would be really nice looking I think.

In 97?! Shoot it's still like that here.

Gr8white, please forgive me and let me clarify. I'm not a Ford hater. I do hate it when stock Mustang DRIVERS think because they put flowmasters on their relatively small, low horsepower engine they can beat anything and that their cars are "fast" (similar to the rice metallity). I'm hardly impressed with their 4.6l and 5l engines (stock). Of course you can make anything fast I appreciate anything that someone has take the time to modify. I'm just saying that in my lifetime the best (really only) high performance step Ford has done from the factory is supercharge their V8 which I think is awesome. This is simply my opinion and should be taken lightly.

Haha, yes because there's no way a good ol' 350 could whip em without spray or boost..... Dangit I've got to stop arguing in other people's threads