280zwitha383

Can you elaborate?

Looks good. I don't know if you've said but why did you use the JCI mounts (instead of JTR's esp. since you're using their headers). I wouldn't have thought it would have caused any problems but it seems the engine is set more towards the driver side than where the JTR mount would be? edit: nevermind I'm a tard

Please elaborate. I've never put in cam bearings either.

The freaking DOT of texas website clearly says you can have the exhaust out the back, top, or SIDES of the passenger compartment. On top of that there are factory cars that have the exhaust behind the front tires (aren't there?!). So, can you guys give me a list or even pictures of these cars? Maybe I can take my car somewhere else and if that's all they say I can whip out some pictures (articles in car and driver would be awesome) and say what about these.

Were all other things kept the same? Do you have a link?

If you jump it off will it run? If it will run and then die (either after a while or after you disconnect it) it is your alternator.

300hp out of a stock v6 is right on. Lookout Mustang GT's. I don't like the rice reaerend though.

That sucks. There are a lot of programs I've tried and non of them really work that great and they're hard to find (for free). You could try Mozilla's Firefox (browser). They have all kinds of plug-ins to do pretty much anything. It might even download all of your streaming videos. I like to use it because you can open up web pages in different tabs instead of different windows. It's a pretty small download if you want to try it. http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/

I run 14" straight through perforated like you're talking about right behind the front tires (see picture). It's actually not too bad. Yeah, it's loud but it's not unbearable. I think double 14" bullets (4 total) out the back would sound really nice and flow very well but I'm not sure if there's enough room. They're not as low as they look in the picture for some reason.

This Is Getting Out Of Hand!

A very interesting topic I like to discuss with friends is weird dreams we have. I don't ever have any scary dreams or recurring dreams other than me swimming and trying to breathe under water. Sometimes I can and sometimes I can't but I always remember that I have before (in dreams of course) and also remember that sometimes I can't and sort of choke. I did have a matrix type dream a couple years ago. Some new sports car had just come out and a friend of mine was letting me drive his that he just bought. I was driving around town and getting on it a little to see what it had. I wasn't very impressed so I figured I would take it up on the loop and see if it was any better. I got up to about 60mph and punched it. First it gave me something of a fast and furious blur like when they hit the nitrous and then my view went way outside the car to the car's passenger side sky view and (while I was suspended in stupid fast acceleration) the view did a 180 around the back of the car. It was sweet. So, what kind of dreams do you have?

You'd be better of buying vortec heads than putting any money into those.

Wait a minute! Corvette rear end! I wish he wouldn't have put that bumper on there but it's still really nice and the body looks straight. Maybe the price is right.

The car looks nice. The carb probably just needs a rebuild if once you prime it it runs ok. Price seems ok, maybe a little high. It sounds like he wants to get what he put into it rather than get rid of it which is fine. Really, I would think the guy would fix whatever the fuel problem is before he sells it because it's probably a minor thing. There are lots of things you can check as far as the engine goes. Make sure it has good oil pressure, do a compression test, smell the oil (and transmission fluid). Make sure it cools and on and on. And of course you'll want to look for rust. It seems like a nice car so check the little things and maybe point them out to the owner to see if he'll come down some.

Shop around and even keep an eye out for used heads. One of our local machine shops here keeps a pair of vortec heads ready to run and they've even done the machine work to accept higher lift cams. They sell these for $350! I got a pair of Iron Eagle 215cc 2.08 heads that were just gone through for $500 which was a really good deal at the time. I just called a different machine shop and they knew a guy who was selling them.

I don't think your problems have anything to do with fuel delivery unless you're just not getting enough fuel from your pump. IMO there can only be a few other things that would cause what you're talking about. I would check valve timing, maybe you're off a tooth on your cam.The only other thing I would think is something with your ignition. Maybe your coil is weak or maybe your ignition module is bad. Really you should keep both carbs until you figure out what your main problem is. Then see what kind of gain the demon carb will give you and make your decision from there.

Peak at 4800rpm?!?! That should be encouraging I think because you know something's not right. With that big of a cam you should peak around 6k. Since you're not you know you have a lot to gain.

I've taken two different l28's with over 200k each to 6500 MANY times. Yeah it's not the greatest thing but if you do blow something you may as well do an engine swap or buy a used engine from a JY if you want to keep it like it is. Unless the car is really nice then maybe rebuild. Aren't bearings alone around $100?

Both my 280ZX's and my silverado will only start with the right key, but once you get them in the run position you can take the key out and do whatever which I really like. Say you forgot to lock the house up and you've already got the car started...

YEEHAW. The comment is only slightly ironic.... Could you post your actual dyno? I would be curious to see how the curves of DD coincide with reality. I'm sorry if this has gotten away from your original question btw.

So you take it up to 7k? What intake are you running? This is not the right cam and I'm assuming you're running a single plane intake. It gives you an idea of what you should be making at the crank. Again, if you were losing 20% at the crank (which you're not) and making 400hp you should be putting down 320 to the wheels. I think for where you are with tuning and such you're really not far off.

Is this affecting performance? I would think that it's not a problem with your fuel pump, if there is actually a problem. Usually once a pump gets going it doesn't shut off and come back on unless there's a short. If the fuel pump was about to give out it would occasionally not come on at all when you're first trying to start the car up.

Haha, oops. Thought he said automatic.... Ok, so you're bordering on 350hp, probably below that. Something is probably a little off. Well right now I'm running 28 degress total about 8 initial just so I can run 87 octane (may or may not be productive in the end but my speedo is 5 mph over so a good gas mileage estimate might be tough). I'm running 10:1 on iron heads which should be right on the money with 91 octane. You only have 4 degrees mechanical? What is your initial timing set at (at idle, no vacuum)? How much compression are you running? Unless you're running a lot of compression and you're trying to avoid detonation, I would start off at 34 degrees. When you say 300/.508 I understand .508 is lift but 300 isn't the duration is it? Did they tell you it was running lean or rich at the dyno? You could probably just take a trip to the track and get this thing tuned in a little better.

cool

PERSONALLY, I would sell both of them and get a 600/650 holley dp (mechanical secondaries). Maybe even a edelbrock. I think vacuum secondaries don't really work well with these light cars especially when combined with a 3.90 rear. And, 750 cfm is definitely too much carb for a 350. Can you punch it in your top gear and get smooth acceleration i.e. no bog or flat spot (which would be waiting for the engine to catch up or waiting for the secondaries to open up respectively). If you can then stick with your holley because you paid a lot more for the BG and don't really see much of a benefit from what you say. Have you played with timing? Does 285whp seem a low to you. Seems to me a decent flowing head with 500 lift should get you anywhere between 350 and 400 at the crank. ASSume 25% loss (sorry for the math lesson but I had to think for a second how to figure this out): X=crank power y=% of loss x-(x*y)=285whp x-(x*.25)=285 x-.25x=285 .75x=285 x=285/.75 x=380hp ASSume 20% loss: x-.2x=285whp .8x=285 x=285/.8 x=356.25hp Point is you are probably making more than 350 horsepower at the crank and that's atleast close to where you should be. Maybe your drivetrain loss is higher than you might expect (and you're actually making 400hp but only getting 285 to the wheels) . Some people believe that you lose 28+ percent through an auto some say even in the lower 30's.