280zwitha383

The 454 I see on the website is $1495 which is a pretty good deal.

$250 for solid mounts is a little pricey IMO. You could buy a welder and make your own for that much.

Oh yeah, AND POST A PICTURE OF YOUR WIFE OR GIRLFRIEND IS FINE!!!! There is nothing inappropriate because it is specifically designated for such a purpose (yet hardly untasteful, atleast 95% I would say) and their are no allurning pictures leading people into it. Don't knock on the most viewed thread in the whole world.

I appreciate it but I must agree also. Lil Weezy throwing cash is one thing and that is another. Flashy graphics are fine IMO but overly sexual images like this are too much. I say do one or the other. Don't flash multiple pictures or don't make them so explicit. But, that's just my opinion.

Well, I really want to get into MS and learn so that I can eventually run it on my 383. In this case It was about the same price as it would be to buy the harness off of ebay for a Vortec 5.7 (about $175). I just don't know where I'm going to get the sensor connectors now though.

Haha, now that I think about it my alternator is a one wire that runs directly to the battery. It might be the alternator after all and he's smart to run it directly and not through the harness. When I connected mine I just went the easiest route because I didn't label the alternator wires before I pulled the I6. Maybe it was a good thing....

Likenfelter? Is that the knockoff brand made by Warewolfs.... j/k

If the power valve will hold suction against your hand how can it be blown? I know there is a needle and seat on the other side of it and maybe that's not sealing but I still can't understand how it can drain all the way down.

Thanks, I will no doubt be spending a lot of time there.

I wish my interior was half as clean as these.

I've had 3 different manual transmissions in my life and all of them don't want to go into reverse on occasion. I just let the clutch out and do it again. Works everytime. I have had two different 5 sp ZX transmissions and both of them make a bearing/very slight grinding sound when your running in neutral with the clutch out. I'm no transmission guy but the two transmissions are still going so....

I had a completely new driveshaft made with u-joints and it set me back $150 I think. I was happy because I had figured about $350.

Oh yeah, it's been a long time since I have backfired out the intake. I had my timing way off. It backfires pretty often the last couple of days because I went over a curb that I didn't know was there on a "off ramp". But my carb problem has been going on for a few months. I just got tired of messing with it. The more I think about it, it seems to me that it almost has to be the accelerator pump because that is physically the lowest thing in the bowl and if it was the power valve or something else how would it drain out so much that there is no gas where the accelerator pump is. If there was I would be able to pump the gas and start my car but that doesn't work. I just don't see how all of it would come out unless it was siphoning.

the setting the float level suggestion is valid, Id also check and most likely replace the power valve ,ESPECIALLY if the cars EVER BACKFIRED or COUGHTED back, but Ive got a few questions, (1) first how do you know the gas is draining into the intake?, Well, it's got to go somewhere. I don't know where else it would go. (2)and how do you know the float bowls are empty? Well, I don't know for sure how much gas is in them but when I start it after a few days of sitting I pour a substantial amount of gas into the primary bowl, pump it and it fires up pretty easily (3)whats your fuel pressure at the carb? I don't know. I'm just using a stock mechanical fuel pump I think for an '85 Silverado (don't know if that matters) (4)have you tested the needle and seat valves for crud/leakage (they are a high probability? No, I looked at them earlier and I actually switched them (put the primary on the secondary and vice versa). How would you go about testing them? (5)are you useing a GOOD fuel filter? Good question, I don't know what brand of filter it is but you can see through it. It was pretty cheap I know that much too. (6)are you useing a return style pressure regulator? No, just running a stock fuel pump (7)when you let the car sit,have you pulled the sight plugs to verify the bowls empty I really wish you were closer, because this stuff is easy to diagnose (hands on) Yes, everytime it won't start I pour fuel into the primary bowl (8)whats the carbs vacuum reading at idle, at what rpm? I got about 12psi today, don't know exactly what rpm but close to 800. I've never got more than 12 psi at idle and I can't really affect the psi by turning the idle mixture screws (and never have been able to) I took both bowls, floats, and metering blocks off and cleaned and inspected. My power valve will keep suction for as long as I was patient enough to hold it it just occured to me hours later that it has a needle and seat on the front of it which could be a potential proble, but everything else looked pretty clean. The only other deviation I had was when I pulled off the gas inlet on the primary bowl the little copper/bronze filter did not have a gasket on it and the one on the secondary inlet did. I had never taken the inlets off before and unless I dropped it without knowing I have never had a gasket on it. How does the accelerator pump not continually leak into the intake. For that matter why do the jets not continually trickly into the intake. Holley carbs have so few crucial parts that I've never really paid much attention to how they work, just swapped stuff out.

Haha, well almost exaclty one year (and no replies) later I have purchased MS1 v2.2 from a gentlemen on here. I have looked everywhere and never heard of anyone using MS with the 350 vortec so I guess I'll be the first one..... great. As soon as it gets here in a few days research will begin. Wish me luck.

That would make it empty out though?

Wtf.

If I can get a few quick ideas I'll try and tackle this tonight. Anyway I have a street avenger 670cfm and recently the primary float bowl is draining into the engine and causes bad starts. If I let it sit for a few days I have to either prime it or pour gas into the float. I've adjusted the accelerator pump with no luck. It seemed like this happened after I changed out the jets but I've swapped jets out again and still no change. I've also changed the gaskets. The only other thing I can think of is maybe the power valve has blown out (I haven't checked it) but I'm not running noticeably richer so I really don't know. Any help? I posted this in the troubleshooting/gen. info. forum and noone replied so I thought maybe someone would see it and have an idea. Thanks in advance.

I've been running a 100amp alternator for about two years. It's possible but that wouldn't be what I would point the finger at first.

I think I need a bigger cam.... haha. How long have you been running your setup?

I'm not davy but AIR GAP!

You should ask the people on here who have twin turbo'd 383s.... Compression is all relative to your pistons, cam, and heads. You pretty much have to replace the pistons and cam so really your compression is up in the air. Stroking the engine would hardly be couterproductive. With the turbo'd application that you're planning on building you would be foolish not to stroke the engine since you're going to have to replace the rotating assembly anyway and have it balanced. If you don't replace the rotating assembly a twin turbo'd STOCK engine won't last maybe a few runs. And you will notice the difference in the finished product.

Well, IMO you can't really just say that you gained 40hp from stroking an engine. In fact you should have a significant increase across the board. This is referred to as area under the curve. Even though you may have only gained 40 peak hp when you apply that across the board you have made a huge increase in power and speed. For example say you have a 283 and a 383 that both make 400hp. The 383 will make a lot more torque and the hp spike will be flatter because it doesn't really have to rev up to get into its power band. The 283 will probably have to get to say 5k rpm before it comes alive and depending in where it shifts it will keep getting into lower rpms where it is not as powerful. With the 383 shifts don't really have the same effect.

yeah, I he could have canceled some of his friends bids.... who knows..

Would you be so kind as to tell us your build on this engine? That much power will test the limits of the rearend or other weak link but I would say that your 331 is the exception bordering on amazing. Track times? A mere mortal that built a 331 would be within the strength of an r200 IMO unless they were doing big clutch dumps.