280zwitha383

Not completely on topic but my friend has a ZX2 (escort) that has the most horrific ricer exhaust on it. He knows the thing isn't fast, his dad has a s/c early 2000 Corvette that'll break the tires loose if pushed past half throttle. Anyway, it is such a riot to ride around in it because he acts like he's picking on Camaros and anyone else we might come across. It's soo funny to rev at them with the exhaust like it is and of course everyone in a domestic cars wants to spank the rice so they all play along. It might be more fun than actually beating them in a faster car. Maybe you would have to be there....

I hate to bring this down to such a basic level.... but, what you are saying is that a regular 30-40 amp relay won't get you the "high speed" (why I'm not really sure if at high speed the fan only pulls 35 amps) so putting a 60+ amp relay is the only way to get the most out of the fan. I have a two speed fan from a '98 (?) Taurus and I'm just running a toggle switch to a 30 to/or 40 amp relay. I remember Hanns saying he was wondering if one of these things would cool his twin turbo and then, when he got it going, saying that it blows like a volcano or something like that and mine certainly doesn't pull THAT much air.

.... Have you done this before?

I'm sure you paid a pretty penny for your forged pistons which I assume you know are too high compression for almost any boost. So if you do boost you will have to try and resell the pistons or use them for something else and buy lower compression (forged would be best) pistons. I would have probably already experimented with a small single turbo I have if it weren't for my $400+ pistons which is kind of a bummer IMO.

Please build your twin turbo LT1. Maybe then you will have "too much power". I'm sure you have seen the members on here who are utilizing just a few hundred whp over 400 on the street no less. Your goal borders on high IMO. A fairly huge cam is in order. Keep us updated and welcome to the board.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105251&highlight=rewinds

A year or two ago some company was selling these for like $400 total. Maybe it was a group buy... hmm. I'll see if I can find it later. Anyway I always liked them but 7" wide isn't ideal: I'm guessing the Draglites are $159 a piece?

That left side is bad luck.

I am now.... Yeah they favor domestics, I would say that most people do (not saying that it's justifiable). More faster cars are domestic. I would kill for a built 2jz just the same as I would for an LS7. So what. It's a screwy show anyway but I like watching it to see the cars.

This is good advice for people who are diligent at FINISHING projects and for high $$$ projects. For someone who rarely has any money to spend or changes their mind a lot I would say go heads and cam first. This is of course if you have a bottom end that will handle the power you want or close to it. You would hate to be stuck with a stroker bottom end and stock poor flowing heads with a stock cam. IF you do decide to do the bottom end, I would try to put the cam in that you want at the same time so you don't have to pull the timing cover/oil pan off again when you install the heads (of course you might have to buy different springs for your stock heads if they'll even handle that much lift). Better yet save up the money and just do it all at once if possible. Redoing stuff and having to buy new gaskets is just going to cost more money you don't have. Buying a core and building it up as you go while running your current setup is another good idea.

I don't know what you're planning for the rearend but with those tires make sure to not break anything before you get your $1 (and satisfaction).

Sorry but I saw this and a light went on. If I haven't started my Z for a few hours it will take a FEW SECONDS to build up any oil pressure. I just figured the bottom end was worn out a bit. Hmmmm.

The VIN # is 1GCEC14W2YZ167212. Carfax says there are 8 records of it. The auction doesn't have any pictures and the description just says chevy truck on 22" wheels and air bags. The seller does't have any feedback. The buy it now is $6500 so I guess he thinks it's something decent. I live close to where it is and I guess if I won it I could go over there and see if it's legit. It seems like the guy doesn't know how to make a listing but he does have a reserve... hmm. I guess I'll put in $200.

...

I run a stock oil pan on mine. What I did was put the oil pan on, rotate the crank a few times which marks the pan and then "clearance" where the marks are with a rounded hammer (ballpeen?). Of course it's better to run an oil pan that holds more oil and if I had to do it again that's what I would do. More oil is supposed to cool the engine better also.

I would personally part it out. How much did you buy it for? I'll remember to act stupid if I ever get a car like this. How did you find out the VIN was altered?

Monday at work I'll mic the thing if I can get to it and see what I get. P90a head E30 cam (can't find specs for this on the internet but I ASSume it is close to the E31 cam which has 248/248 duration with 10.5/10.4mm lift at valve which is .413/4.09") 150-155psi on all cylinders I would also assume the head was milled for performance because it was completely cleaned, supposedly had new valves and came with the E30 cam when sold on ebay. I would think the seller said how much was milled off but the PO forgot or did't pay any attention. I really couldn't say. The car runs pretty well. Better than the only other thing I have to compare it to which was a completely stock L28 with 200k+ miles on it (came out when the 383 went in).

So my friend got a Yamaha R6 and his parents are making him sell his car and a four wheeler. Anyway the car is an '82 280ZX that I sold to him for $100. It has an aluminum dash and door panels that we haven't seen yet but the dash is supposed to be mounted already but no holes cut for the gauges. He is out $100 for the dash and door panels. It has a turbo 350 transmission built by a local, well known shop that I sold to him for $250. He's also including the JTR V8 motor mounts which sell for $250 new (and they are still new except the motor mounts being installed). The car is stripped out inside, has a straight body with some light hail damage and VERY little rust (as opposed to my current DD having lots of rust). Now the way I see it I can go about this 3 ways. 1. I could use the car to get my 350 Vortec going with MS1 since I already have the mounts and transmission. Then I could put a JY 305/350 in it and sell it for say $1500-$2000. This would be good for me because the 350 Vortec is eventually going into my truck (the FI intake and MS atleast) and now during the summer I can't have much downtime with my truck because I use it every weekend to mow yards. This would require a rebuild kit for the motor that I don't really want to spend the money right now and the regular nickel and dime parts that add up doing a swap. 2. I could sell all of the parts and possibly net maybe $500-$600. I might be able to put the original L28 with auto back into it but I broke one of the head bolts off it and would need a few extra injectors because I've used them on my DD 280ZX. Or I could just sell the shell. Anyway, I could buy the LC-1 wideband I've been wanting for $200. Buy the bearings, gaskets, seals, rings and a honing tool for the 350 vortec so it would be ready to drop into the truck as opposed to putting the intake, timing chain cover with crank sensor, new roller and distributor on my currently vortec head'ed flat-tappet 350 and hoping to get MSNS running in a timely manner all at the same time because I can't run a regular HEI with the Vortec intake. Hmm, what else. 3. I could build another V8 280ZX and keep it. The thought doesn't sound to appeasing at first but if I got another FI vortec intake and ran MS on it or even the stock wiring w/ computer and if it had an OD transmission I could sell my beater 280ZX that I only keep because it gets 20mpg as opposed to 10-12mpg from my car and truck. I would actually really like that because then I could have a relatively quick and reliable DD that gets good gas mileage (relatively). Oh yeah, the $200 car also has a tighter 3.54 r180 than my current 280ZX and I would like to keep it and use it in whatever I decide. No matter what I want to sell something off of the car and buy the wideband O2. Ah the endless possibilities....

HHHHHHWAAAAAAAAAAAAH! :cry2::cry2:

Haha, I never saw the cooch shots but her eye always bothered me (and no I have never thought she was attractive).

The PO said he bought the head and cam off of ebay and the seller claimed the head was shaved but he couldn't tell me how much. I was just wondering if I can mic it somehow? Thanks.

On my last two tanks I've been getting 20-21mpg "in town". Never taken this guy on the highway. By "in town" I mean driving about a mile to the loop, maybe 3 miles at 60-65 on the loop, then another mile of stop and go to get to work. Occasionally I go somewhere else in the car and the 20mpg time I let my wife practice driving the stick in residential for about 30 minutes. I have been pleasantly surprised at getting this good of mileage because previously I was getting 15-17 on the same commute and that's what I always got with my other L28 before killing all hopes of good gas mileage in that car with a carbed 383 and no overdrive. My current L28 has a P90a head supposedly shaved God knows how much, E30 cam, 18-20* initial timing with no vacuum advance (which would help more maybe), and a single 2.5" no cat magnaflow muffler. I also have an open element air filter in stock location.

Someone's getting some sweet meat!!! I can't wait, in about 5 years she'll looke like she's 40 and probably still think she's hot.

Sweet.

I agree with the comment that it must be something in the water. Lead poisioning, biological warfare... Where did you get this picture? There is a guy running around here with almost the exact looking car and that sucker actually looks mean (with the front down where it's supposed to be).