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Showing results for tags 'problem'.
Found 6 results
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Whenever I switch my Z into reverse or try to use my turn signal it will kill the engine, as a result it has become nearly undrivable. Has anyone else ever had this problem? If so, please include your solution. Thank you.
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The higher pitch is me blipping the throttle. When coasting it's quite and on acceleration where the engine is actually pushing i.e. going down hill faster than gravity, it has this whine. The last transmission flush had an inch of shavings on the magnetic drian plug. I have a 4 speed 260z and a unknown welded diff. Plans to swap out to spare open diff. and swap in a 5 speed 240sx transmission. Any info on that swap would be helpful to have!!! PS 75mph is actually 60mph
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I noticed my steering wheel doesn't return to center after turning right. The wheels are aligned still, and there is no play, simply off by about 15 degrees on return. The cause is clearly the rack shifting. Any thoughts on what might be causing extra resistance on the front right wheel? (perhaps a common problem, familiar to the s30 veteran) I replaced the rack's bushings. Not only were the old bushings fine, but they didn't solve the snag. The issue started when I put my wider tires back on (they are 215, but there is no interference), clearly the extra load/resistance is adding enough difference on the failing component to causing the rack to hold slightly right (until I turn the other direction). My thought is strut bushing or bearing (my other vehicle had the same issue when I didn't replace the old strut mount but added heavy duty springs). 1975 Datsun 280z (unmodified)
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Hi Everyone, I read many posts in the archives and lots of Google searches but I would love your advice on my specific case. I have a '78 unrestored 280Z that used to run like a charm and I'm not getting rough startup and probably heat problems? I am pretty noobish with mechanic (learning from 0) so bare with me. Symptoms: A vast majority of the time, the car will 'cough' a lot at startup and runs rough for about 5 to 10 seconds. I'm usually flooring it for a split second during ignition to avoid stalling and then gently rev til the engine runs smoother. I feel like the problem occurs more when the outside temperature is very hot (I live in SoCal), however my car is garaged and the problem also occurs in the morning. The car seems to run better warm and if I stop it after driving it for a couple mile and restart it in the next 10 minutes it will fire right away (like even faster than modern cars, I just push the starter and boom! When that happens I feel almost suspicious of how fast it starts). Finally, I had a problem 2 times. The car stalled after a few miles (usually hot day and driving a bit sporty). It stalls and doesn't turn back on. I had to push it to the side of the road and let it sit for 10-20 minutes before it'd start again. I changed sparks, fuel filter, ignition coil. Any advices appreciated. Stuff that I could check myself would be even better (keep in mind I'm a noob) Thanks a lot, M.
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Hello people First of all, it's an sr20 in a '78 280z in which my brother and I did everything except the wiring which was done by a shop (with a new "Painless" wiring harness). Right, so earlier this week the car died on the way home so we towed it home and found out the fuel pump was not working because it was not getting power. With some tests with a multimeter, we concluded the wire is broken somewhere in the harness. Instead of following the wire through the maze of the harness to find the problem, I wired the pump directly to the battery, with a toggle switch, and the pump definitely works as it makes a sound. But it still wont start. It cranks fine, the fuel tank is full, but it wont fire. What could be wrong? Is it not ok to wire the fuel pump directly to the battery? Is the problem somewhere other than the fuel system? Thanks! -
hey guys, so i have had this problem since the day i bought my 77 280z, and nobody has been able to help me fix it.the problem: when it first started it would sputter and backfire at about 3000 rpm and get worse as i drove it. as time went on the problem got increasingly worse and became kinda undrivable. I found started investigating and found that the fuel pump would pulse and shut off then return "repeat". this would obviously cause the engine to starve for fuel and sputter or stop firing all together. well i bought a brand new "presumably a real walbro 255 fuel pump" and replaced the stock fuel pump with the walbro. the z ran amazing for about a month and a half. then started sputtering, backfiring,dying, just like before. at a glance it seems the fuel pump went out again but i find it hard to believe that it would just burn up and die in a month, although i have ran under a half tank about the entire time its been installed, but i didn't think it mattered much on a external pump. it has to be something electrical,fuel pump, afm, tps,realy, something along those lines. As of now the 280z is litraly un-derivable. it will start and run great for about 3 seconds then starts acting up, i can drive it for about 50 feet then it gets so bad to the point were the pump is barely functioning and cant touch the throttle without it dying, it eventually just dies. im at a loss here guys, this is my baby and would love to drive her on the road once more. help or opinions would be greatly appreciated additional -info: when i turn the key too acc the pump comes on and stays on. "i don't think this is normal" - the afm that is on the car right now might be from a zx, the owner gave me a box of parts and there was a was looks to be a zx n/a afm, i know that some people do the zx afm conversion. i also know that the early 77 280z had a fuel pump cut off switch in the afm's and the later ones did not and it was run from the oil pressure sensor. from what i can see the OPS operates just find and when it is unplugged it does not in anyway effect the pump or running status of the z. - the only thing on the car that i know does not work properly is the temp sensor. but i know that thats the reason its making the car run lean,if that was the issue that doesn't enplane why it ran great with a brand new pump.
