abc_was_here Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 At about wits end with this motor. So it misses when the tach jumps around, it seems to be an intermittent problem. It however seems to be getting worse. Heres a Video: Ignitor is good tried two of them same result New Dizzy with CAS Checked CHTS Brand new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires Tried two coils both gave same results Im trying to see if anyone else has had this problem before. I couldnt find any info on this. This is my second ecu, This could potentialy be the problem, however I will look more into it when I get home from work. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Gently wiggle the wires near the ecu connector when this happens and see if that has an effect.......be gentle....it only takes the slightest pressure do this test and excessive pressure can be tough on the connection where the connector is soldered to the ecu board. Also.....try using jumper cables between the engine and the body to test if it gets rid of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abc_was_here Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 You know I've tried almost everything at this point I have 2 ecus, 3 ignitor, I'm on my third dizzy cause the last one was rebuilt wrong, I've played with the injectors and there not coming from there, I've tried two afms, 2 CHTS, and I've even tried ,different plug wires, and different coils. Out of all the stuff I have I get the same result. I've gone through my entire wiring harness and fusable links to see if there was a grounding problem. I could not find one. Nothing was out of place. It appears to be a spark issue. It tends to only show up once the motor is warm. I get no weird voltage reading from the ignitor or ecu to ignitor. I'm pretty well stumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 What's your starting point? Car, year, engine, EMS, etc. Can't really tell a thing from your two posts except that you probably have a ZX with a turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abc_was_here Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) its a 1980 280zx swapped in a 83 L28ET direct swap factory ecu and such. Its all stock minus exhaust. Used the factory 83 harness. Edited September 19, 2011 by abc_was_here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neotech84 Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Vacuum leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abc_was_here Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 I thought vacuum leak a couple weeks ago as well, My boost/Vacuum gauge does not read any abnormalities. I also cannot find any leaks or problem areas. I guess the next thing to do would be to actually do a test on it. Im 99% sure its a spark problem, as I went out to start the car and it would not start. No tach signal, and no spark. Did a number of various tests (voltage to ecu, voltage to ignitor, power to coil, and several more)couldnt find the problem. After two days of trying to get it to start, day three comes along and car starts up like like nothing is wrong. Then the problem came back after a few minutes. I think I may just put my NA motor back in it, as I can still drive the car then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Double check your power wiring from the ignition switch to the coil and ignitor. My son's L28ET had an intermittent short that showed these symptoms. Check both FSM's and make sure your coil wiring is as per the L28ET diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 That really sounds like a distributor issue. Next time it refuses to start, leave the key on and wiggle the harness where it plugs into the bottom of the distributor. If you hear the injectors click, then you have an intermittence issue within the potted electronics of the distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abc_was_here Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) I have checked the wiring a number of times now, I have also verified my wiring with a friend of mine who has a 77 swapped L28ET. I talked to the people at baxters aka "bastards" and they think it could potentially be a bad cas within the new dizzy as well. He gave me a number to call to talk to a local distributor guy. Shortly after called him told him my story and he said the guy I needed to talk to was not in today and gave him my number. Told me he would have him call me the next day. On day three now. I think im going to try and find a know good distributor and if I still continue to have problems Im going to get rid of this motor. Way to many gremlins. Just to refresh everyone this is already my second remaned distributor. Edited September 22, 2011 by abc_was_here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 You should really learn to test components not just replace them, hoping it solves your problem. It will save you a lot of money and frustration. Give us as much info as possible on the exact conditions and it will be easier to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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