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Megan coilover ride height


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All this talk about preload, blah, blah, blah. Just screw the lower spring perch down and you'll go lower. Coil overs are simple, why does everybody make it so complicated? Screw perch down to lower the car, screw perch up to raise car. Unless your car routinely flies thru the air with the greatest of ease, the preload doesn't matter as much as everybody makes it out to be. I have zero preload and I have never had a spring cock off the perch in flight. Comic, your car is preloaded by the earth, so handling discussions are just so much bench racing. Drop the spring perches for crying out loud and get you some of that oilpan lovin!

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All this talk about preload, blah, blah, blah. Just screw the lower spring perch down and you'll go lower. Coil overs are simple, why does everybody make it so complicated? Screw perch down to lower the car, screw perch up to raise car. Unless your car routinely flies thru the air with the greatest of ease, the preload doesn't matter as much as everybody makes it out to be. I have zero preload and I have never had a spring cock off the perch in flight. Comic, your car is preloaded by the earth, so handling discussions are just so much bench racing. Drop the spring perches for crying out loud and get you some of that oilpan lovin!

 

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/installations.asp?id=79&subject=CDK:%20%20How%20to%20set%20spring%20pre-load

I'm feeling the enthusiasm although this was why i was hesitant to do so.

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Unless you have top hats that extend the shock travel, screwing down the preload will cause the shock to be compressed at that ride height, putting more stress on it and causing it to blow out faster. That's not something I'd reccomend unless you have custom tophats. Or something to extend the shock travel.

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If your springs are fairly stiff (even just 200# or more), you don't need tons of travel, you just need "enough" so that the strut isn't bottoming on a regular basis. So long as the strut isn't bottoming out (and you will feel that), you won't hurt anything. If you want to go lower than Megan has pre-set you, you will just have to adjust as needed. The beauty of coil-overs is that you can customize ride height yourself-I wouldn't worry about any warranties on racing parts-you are kind of beyond warranty mentality when you start mod-ing your car this way. Racing parts break sometimes, it is just a fact of life when you are "abusing" your car, and we shouldn't hassle the folks who bring us these products; they should all be purchased and used from a "buyer beware" standpoint-that is really what "for off road use only" means. Warranty statements are really just legal disclaimers for the general public who are out of touch with reality and living in a "production car" world, expecting other people to solve all their problems. You are now on a different plane of existence. I say "go for it" and just baby the car over deep dips and train track crossings. Drive it hard as you like on smooth pavement, like a drag strip, autocross track or a road course. If you drive it alot in town, a few months after you lower it to where you "think" you want it, you will be bringing it back up a few inches so that you can get in and out of your driveway, over speedbumps at the grocery, etc. I had to raise mine just so I could get it onto a trailer when going to the track. It is even a ***** getting a lowered car onto a maintenance rack to change the oil, fix a crack in the frame, fix an exhaust hanger, etc. Have fun, I hope I've giving you the courage to finish up.

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You don't need preload on the springs for a S30. Pull the shock boot out of the Megan unit and adjust the ride height so 2" of shock shaft is showing above the top of the shock and before the bump stop. Tighten your two lock nuts down at that point. That's as low as you can run the car on the street and still have a decent amount of bump travel.

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  • 1 month later...

So I finally figured out why the ride height on my Z wouldn't go any lower. Turns out that ZCCJDM made longer rear tubes? I measured my rears the other day and it came out to almost 11" so which leads me to believe they are for the 280z instead. Correct me if i am mistaken folks. If they are the wrong tubes is there anything i can do to fix it? I really don't want to re-cut and weld again.

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They should be 8 inches I had the opposite issue where my car was slammed at max. His solution was to send a threaded extension to add 2-3 inches. So for whatever reason you were shipped the updated rears for a 280z. Not sure what can be done to reduce height might wanna give him a call or email.

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You could just cut them the proper length and use a file to debur it. You don't really care about the the first couple of threads as long as it threads in a decent amount.

 

I did the same thing with bolts that got mushroomed a little. Just file down the mushroomed end at say a 45ish angle and thread it in past that. Those where bolts that didn't even depend on those threads.

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I'd have to cut them where i welded because the tubes have a lip inside where it stops coilover from threading anymore. The only way i can see it working is if i cut them off carefully and then taking them somewhere to be properly cut square 3 inches at the bottom of the tube.

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They should be 8 inches I had the opposite issue where my car was slammed at max. His solution was to send a threaded extension to add 2-3 inches. So for whatever reason you were shipped the updated rears for a 280z. Not sure what can be done to reduce height might wanna give him a call or email.

 

Would you happen to know if the front tubes would be the same height? As in a 240 setup?

(6" front tubing)

From what it says on the site.

I've read up and it seems as the fronts are the same.

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