Jump to content
HybridZ

What battery is everyone using


texis30O

Recommended Posts

You realize a yellow top is way more expensive than the red top....... Right...

 

Is it ten times more expensive?

 

 

I'm using a duralast red crap. Needed it quick and I had money on my autozone card. My previous one lasted 3-4 years and then I sold it.

 

Wow, kudos on being able to sell a used battery.

 

 

 

I've had pretty good luck with cheap batteries so long as I don't leave the lights on overnight or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I work with a guy who's really smart with this kind of thing. He has tried all the different batteries out there that are supposed to be the "best" including optimas. He says the optimas were the worst, he had to replace them about once a year. The die hard platinum is apparently the best battery money can buy. They're the same thing as another battery that sells for like $400, but are way cheaper. I haven't figured out which particular one will work the best in the Z (size wise), but I will be using one. Can anyone tell me what size is the best? I have removed my battery tray already, so I will have to make a custom tray anyways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Optima red tops, I have since about 1994, I've only had one die on me after about 8 years of abuse. By abuse I mean running dead several times, shortIng out a few times, moved between several vehicles, etc. It had a dead cell (rest voltage was about 10v) it still started my tired carbed V6. The only reason I replaced it when I did was because it was getting to be winter and if the engine didn't catch the first time it may not have started on a second crank, and since I hate being out in the winter cold, I decided not to chance it.

 

The yellow top is not recommended as a starting battery, it is designed as a deep cycle battery, and when used as a starting battery, they tend to have a short life. I also find that people that say that Optimas are "junk" use the battery in tye wrong application. There are also factory seconds sold through companies like Walmart, Sam's Club and similar places that many people bought and experienced problems with that also gave the brand a bad name.

So use the proper battery for the use, and a factory first, along with proper maintenance and care, for a battery that lasts and works.

 

I'm going to test a different kind of battery, hopefully this year, just due to size and ability to place the weight where I want it. It's an AGM (applied glass mat) battery that has worked well for me in audio systems in the past.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Optima red tops, I have since about 1994, I've only had one die on me after about 8 years of abuse. By abuse I mean running dead several times, shortIng out a few times, moved between several vehicles, etc. It had a dead cell (rest voltage was about 10v) it still started my tired carbed V6. The only reason I replaced it when I did was because it was getting to be winter and if the engine didn't catch the first time it may not have started on a second crank, and since I hate being out in the winter cold, I decided not to chance it.

 

The yellow top is not recommended as a starting battery, it is designed as a deep cycle battery, and when used as a starting battery, they tend to have a short life. I also find that people that say that Optimas are "junk" use the battery in tye wrong application. There are also factory seconds sold through companies like Walmart, Sam's Club and similar places that many people bought and experienced problems with that also gave the brand a bad name.

So use the proper battery for the use, and a factory first, along with proper maintenance and care, for a battery that lasts and works.

 

I'm going to test a different kind of battery, hopefully this year, just due to size and ability to place the weight where I want it. It's an AGM (applied glass mat) battery that has worked well for me in audio systems in the past.

 

Interesting to read your point of view. I will have to ask him more specifics on his problems, but he said he went through 3 or 4 of them, varying from red and yellow tops, and had them all die on him. He takes care of his stuff too, and is very knowledgeable with this type of thing. He's the go-to guy with these kind of questions at the shop I work at. Anyways he recommends the die hard to me and everyone else who've asked him, he says they're the best. And yes, you're right, any battery that isn't used properly will die prematurely.

 

Where are you putting the battery? I had originally planned on putting the battery in the hatch, but later realized (after I drilled out all the spot welds on the battery tray and yanked it out) that the factory location really makes the most sense, considering most of the weight of the car is already on the rear wheels when you're in the car. Unless I'm mistaken on what I've just said?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run an Odyssey PC680 in my car. The car has seen less then 3 miles in 14 months, and still starts great. I don't unplug the battery for the winter or keep it on a trickle. The one time the battery did die, was after cranking for 35+ seconds continuously. I gave it a quick charge, and the battery cranking performance has been as new since.

 

If your car is hard to start, or you plan on listening to your radio with the car off, this battery isn't for you. But at less than 15#, for roughly $115 it was great weight savings.

 

Specs can be found here:

Odyssey PC680

Edited by CarJway
Link to comment
Share on other sites

By abuse I mean running dead several times, shortIng out a few times, moved between several vehicles, etc. It had a dead cell (rest voltage was about 10v) it still started my tired carbed V6.

 

How did you keep shorting it? I lit up a drill bit like a roman candle once when I failed to realize the butt of the drill was resting on the positive terminal. :rolleyes:

 

 

And that was on the cheesy autozone no-name battery that the car came with, and I kept it for three more years. It finally failed me after I left my car out in the rain for about a week.

 

 

 

The one time the battery did die, was after cranking for 35+ seconds continuously. I gave it a quick charge, and the battery cranking performance has been as new since.

 

If your car is hard to start, or you plan on listening to your radio with the car off, this battery isn't for you. But at less than 15#, for roughly $115 it was great weight savings.

 

Sounds like a good way to kill a starter though.

 

17Ah sounds decent to me, what kind of sound system you running? I wish more batteries listed the Ah rating. Odyssey is supposed to be good. At least good enough for aircraft... For an extra $50 or so you could get the full sized 28Ah model though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run the optima bluetop battery, it works great. I once drained it down to 4 volts and after a few days of trickle charge with a 1 amp charger, it came back to life. Its a strong battery that never dies. I can crank on it for a good 2 minutes before it needs to recoup. I have beat this battery up like a pimp beats hoes and it still runs great. Plus I got it for free. Dont cheap out on a battery, especially on cars with sub par/ old charging systems and efi equipped cars. It creates unneeded headaches. Just my .2 cents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where are you putting the battery? I had originally planned on putting the battery in the hatch, but later realized (after I drilled out all the spot welds on the battery tray and yanked it out) that the factory location really makes the most sense, considering most of the weight of the car is already on the rear wheels when you're in the car. Unless I'm mistaken on what I've just said?

 

The majority of the weight in an s30, or any z for that matter is not over the rear. They are slightly front biased. I feel that most people who concentrate on moving weight rearward, unless dragracing, are mostly just adding weight to the car. Those are some pretty big wires you have to run all the way up to your engine and starter. Me, I'll get the smallest lightest battery I can afford and mount right next to the starter. Yes it is still in front of the firewall, but it weights less than a third of the original battery and is much, much lower. Just my opinion and I'm in no way an expert... come to think of it the o.p. wanted to know what battery, not where so back to the topic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting to read your point of view. I will have to ask him more specifics on his problems, but he said he went through 3 or 4 of them, varying from red and yellow tops, and had them all die on him. He takes care of his stuff too, and is very knowledgeable with this type of thing. He's the go-to guy with these kind of questions at the shop I work at. Anyways he recommends the die hard to me and everyone else who've asked him, he says they're the best. And yes, you're right, any battery that isn't used properly will die prematurely.

 

Where are you putting the battery? I had originally planned on putting the battery in the hatch, but later realized (after I drilled out all the spot welds on the battery tray and yanked it out) that the factory location really makes the most sense, considering most of the weight of the car is already on the rear wheels when you're in the car. Unless I'm mistaken on what I've just said?

 

Right now, my battery is in the stock location, as was all of the other vehicles I've had Optimas in, ok, well my Jimmy wasn't exactly a stock location, since I moved the battery from the passenger side of the engine to the driver side, but still considered "stock location." The batteries I will be trying are small enough that I can put them anywhere. I am thinking behind the seats on that little ledge, I have a couple other places in mind, since they are so small. I need to do some teasting before making any brackets or doing any wiring though, to make sure they'll do what I need them to do.

 

 

How did you keep shorting it? I lit up a drill bit like a roman candle once when I failed to realize the butt of the drill was resting on the positive terminal. :rolleyes:

 

For some reason my larger wrenches liked to find their way to touching both battery terminals. :mellow:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After a little more poking and proding this morning I am going to Batteries Plus to look at a Harley Davidson battery, X220L. It is 15.5lbs., has a better CCA rating than the Odssey, and it is a AGM battery. They quoted me at 114.00...... It is only 1/2" larger than the Odssey.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Deka Sports Power ETX-30....have had it in for a year, and it's been working well so far. It's nice having such a compact and light-weight battery.

 

There's enough of a drain on it (clock, stereo, computerized fan control) that I need to disconnect it (via battery cut-off switch) if I don't drive the car every few days or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I once drained it down to 4 volts and after a few days of trickle charge with a 1 amp charger, it came back to life.

 

That's the biggest factor here. You can easily kill a $500 battery by trying to charge it at 25A, and you can save a $100 battery by doing a reconditioning charge. I have one of these and it's paid for itself several times over.

 

http://www.batteryminders.com/batterycharger/catalog/BatteryMINDer-12-Volt-2-4-or-8-Amp-Charger-Maintainer-Desulf-p-16133.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went to fix the oblong holes in my tension rod buckets today; started the car up over 12 times with little to no actually driving to let the alternator charge, and the battery held up just fine. (moving the car around the shop) I also have the car rewired with a painless harness, and I am sure there are no electrical draws on my battery when the key is pulled out. This could be another reason why this battery has worked so well for me.

 

@getoffmyinternet: By continuous; initial start up to build oil pressure after a rebuild, then crank to get the ignition map going, etc. I would crank for some amount of time, stop, crank again. Either way, for what it is, it held up great. (but did die after that exercise) Currently there is no radio in the car, but I do plan to put one in. In dash screen, with newer speakers but the car will not have a sub.

 

@texis300: the battery comes with automotive posts that screw into the battery. I believe there are a few versions of this battery, and just make sure you get the one for automotive use. The only difference is the posts included.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an odessey pc925 that is mounted under the rear package tray in my 77.No problems and the battery is about 1/2 the weight of a standard group 24 battery.I bought it from johnc who is a member of this site.I got some 0 size welding cable and some copper eyes and built my own cables.I ran 1 cable from the battery ground side to a mounting ear on the starter + a ground to the body.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...