docaam Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 As I was saying, we've got some real concerns about the Rack placement and Steering Geometry. There's nothing that says your metalwork has to be symetrical, so if as I mentioned in the other thread, if you rotated the Subi rack back so it points under the AC compressor you may be able to mod the rack mount and frame rail to route the shaft back though I don't know about how the turbo would fit. 45 degrees is about the max for a U joint so keep that in mind when you're trying to route the steering. Im not sure if rotating is possible, but will check this once install it after putting the engine IN. AC compressor can be move up or down few inches in case of worst scenario. Lets see how it goes I agree with comment above. What would happen if U-joint angle being too big is torque variation on steering. If you plot steering torque vs. steering wheel rotation, you'll end up with a sine wave. Steering feeling will be wrong (at the condition that you can steer) Fingers crossed but thanks for heads up Moving along Cross members are done with finished. Grinding was done then rust proofed then painted matte black, looks much better Engine one Steering cross-member, still needs to be installed and checked for measurements Gearbox mount Will be using 350z auto transmission mount bushes Shortening of the gearbox is done as well, got almost 4 inches or more out Cut and weld Sent the car to get engine bay painted black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Looks good, You smoothed out those welds a lot. Hopefully it'll be fine for passing inspection. I hope that steering cross member works well, You certainly made it beefy enough. I hope you can get the steering shafts to clear. You'll still need to make a brace to hold the end of the steering shaft before the U joints. I was going to triagulate mine to the fenderwall, but it'll be great to see what you come up with. You gearbox mount looks good. Mine's very similar to Austin's but I'm thinking I'm going to redo it since mine sticks out too far and may touch my fuel lines. Your gearbox mount looks pretty good, though keep the exhaust in mind, since it has to run past it. (Thus Austin's C shape half pipe cutouts.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted July 15, 2013 Author Share Posted July 15, 2013 Looks good, You smoothed out those welds a lot. Hopefully it'll be fine for passing inspection. I hope that steering cross member works well, You certainly made it beefy enough. I hope you can get the steering shafts to clear. You'll still need to make a brace to hold the end of the steering shaft before the U joints. I was going to triagulate mine to the fenderwall, but it'll be great to see what you come up with. You gearbox mount looks good. Mine's very similar to Austin's but I'm thinking I'm going to redo it since mine sticks out too far and may touch my fuel lines. Your gearbox mount looks pretty good, though keep the exhaust in mind, since it has to run past it. (Thus Austin's C shape half pipe cutouts.) Yeah its kind of ok for inspection. For steering shaft will work on it once AC and exhaust manifold all are done. I believe there is space in exhaust mounting for the exhaust pipe as I am using the same one which was with RB25 earlier. Got the engine cleaned up bought some Duplicolor cans for final finish, Used a gray colour on engine block The block was properly cleaned inside out then sprayed all areas, some buff is there which will be cleaned up and also paint on some bolts but just wanted a cleaner look. Picture were taken from a cell phone so quality looks bad but in person looks really clean and with red covers would look sick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 (edited) Finally dropped the engine in and start putting things back together, intake clearance is not that good touching the hood a bit will send middle and lower intake manifold part for some shaving Edited July 21, 2013 by docaam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Finally managed to get the power steering rack done, it was really a PIA to get this going, because of AC compressor blocking it, now added some U joints and removed the stock coupler near firewall, angle seems to be steep but as of now turning it right. We managed to add a bearing through which the rod goes next to the engine and its mounted in the chassis rail from bottom and a bracket on the side so avoiding any movement of rod in any direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Oh my, that doesn't look fun at all. Though I see how you were able to run the steering linkage over the top of the AC pump. That looks like it would probably work, though the angles are a little tight. ~45 degrees is supposed to be the safe limit for a U joint, but it looks like this should work since it's only turning low speed. Those angles are tight, but so long as everything clears I guess it's all good. Mounting it to the shock tower with a bracket is really a great idea. that would hold it much tighter and prevent some slop in the steering. Is there any way to move the bearing closer to the fender wall and maybe move the shafts down a little to the side, rather than directly over the AC pump? It's a tight fit, and at least you'll have AC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Yeah it will be welded to the fender wall as so Dar we just testing it and after everything works good will do a spot weld with a brace. Coming to moving the U joint a but it's not allowing we tried a kit the fabricator is really good he knows his job. With this setting we tried turning there was a hump coming inside on steering wheel so we took out everything and making some adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 K, yeah that's what I was wondering about... So how about this idea, Moving the engine back another inch or so and moving the hood latch to the side? I was actually thinking of getting a 2nd latch and moving them to the upper corners by the access panels. a cable between them should still allow for unlocking, and opening. Just a thought. Other people have used manual latches (see Austin's build) You may be able to drop the back end of the tranny an inch and fix the height of the engine under the hood too, but I would just lower your engine mounts a little more. I'm still very interested in seeing what you come up with for the Steering. that AC compresor is just so in the way. I was thinking I'd have to make a plate that would bolt to the stock AC mounts on the block, then would have a bend to fit along the side of the engine, and then some holes with nuts welded in to bolt the AC pump on. You'd be able to raise that pump probably 60mm that way. You may need a bracket from the top for stability, but then rotating the rack, you shoudl be able to fit the shaft underneath, though your Turbo might still be in the way. It's a tough issue. There is still the idea of putting in a smaller AC pump from another car up near where the original PS pump was, But you're using PS so that may not work. Take a couple pictures for me. one without the AC pump in place, and another with it in place, both from the top looking down at the shaft. This way we can do some planning on "paper" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Almost done engine and gear part and also he steering rack, just finalizing all things then to install radiator and intercooler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5thgenluder Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Been following this build since the beginning. One thing I missed is why did you get rid of the rb25? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 Been following this build since the beginning. One thing I missed is why did you get rid of the rb25? Didint like it that much and was a bit heavy compared to this. I sold the RB to install first RB26DE with ITBs but then after selling that plan went down the drain and start looking for VQ35DE, while searching came across this so went with a turbo one again. I think 200lb lighter and midship engine character along with better reliability then RB this might fit the bill better. 4 cams are better then 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 How's the Rad and IC install going? Do you have a crank up video yet? I can't wait to see where you are on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 How's the Rad and IC install going? Do you have a crank up video yet? I can't wait to see where you are on this. Going on will post updates, making some custom mounts for the radiator Some update on wheels as previous wheels offsets with fender flares was not pretty aggressive had to run big spacers so I did sell those in Feb and ordered a similar set with aggressive offsets and custom bronze lip through Ravspec. finally after 5 months these reach Dubai yesterday. Work CR01 15 X 9 - 28 and 15 x 10 -28, with custom bronze anodized lip, Sorry for crappy phone pics but these look so sick in person at times you dont want them to put on the car and make these dirty lol Unfortunately wont be installing these at the moment as Z got sponsored from Atara Racing and they sent their wheels more like Watanabe Reps with square setup 15 x 10.5 -32 and those also reached yesterday what a timing , Once car is all done and running again thee CR01 will go on the car. Z at the moment getting radiator custom brackets and intercooler piping done will post some updates in coming days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Nice! Sponsorships rock! I need to get sponsored, Then I'd have my paint all taken care of, not to mention whatever bling they wanted to throw at me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 First thread I have ever subscribed to! Waiting to see how those new CR01 wheels look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 There is some more progress Got the flexalite fan mounted on the griffin radiator with custom mounts In the car, closed the stock radiator holes will make new ones from the sides for flush fan fitment Intercooler, AC condensor and fan Intercooler needed custom pipes welded to come in the engine bay because of odd stock holes All radiator, concdoesor and interocooler mounted Custom intake and IC piping welded and polished Courtesy of Atara Racing and Carbonsignal their agent locally for sponsoring my car, got my wheels 15 X 10.5 -32 square setup in bronze looks really good with huge lip there and weight also around 15lb each wheel will use these for a while then might switch to WORK Some tire stretching going on 225/60/15 That is poking but wide fender flares will take care of that found them a bit high so changed the tires to 205/60/15, more pics later in few days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Im almost reaching there, weather isint great to go and stay at the shops and so is the place small roadside places. Guy did a decent job on the intercooler pipes and mounting brackets, some pipes got some scratches he will get those polished those again. Made an aluminium radiator cooling plate seems a bit big but will make changes later if needed, good thing is looks a bit cleaner as the whole space is closed from front grill to the radiator, can polish or powder coat it or maybe wrapped in CF Do you guys suggest to make some holes or slits in it as was worried if air will pull it up while driving Piping seems to be good, MAF sensor is near the intake pipe long with BOV, only thing which im not that feeling is the pipe for ar filter which goes across the other side but there was no space on the other side. Got the new tires mounted will be installed today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Amazing work, love everything you got going on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 (edited) Looks great, but why such skinny tires on those wide wheels? You should have 225's or even 235's. if you had a 235/50/R15 it'd be sweet. it's the second # that's the height of the profile. It'd be a shame to bust up those wheels if you lost a bead. Edited September 5, 2013 by Pharaohabq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypertek Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 (edited) I got the atara wheels too, but the staggered set with 15x9 and 15x10.5. Yours is the first Z I've seen sitting on them,. I dont have a Z yet, just planing things. I hope the 15x9s fit those standard flares better up front. Rear should look good with a drop. Edited September 7, 2013 by Hypertek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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