BlueStag Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Hey guys, Those of you following the soap opera of my car: I have a Triumph Stag with a Z drive train. I had it up on stands for 9 years until this last summer. When I went to change the oil and filter, I had the worst time getting the filter off, and worse, could not get a new filter on. I ended up putting the old filter back on. Conclusion: the old filter had galled to the threaded stem that it screws onto and on removal it had left some metal in the threads. Today I tried to chase the threads with a 3/4 16 thread die, but it was too tight, I could not get it done. I had demolished the old, old filter, and so was forced to screw on my new one using rather more force than is considered correct in this application. Happily it seems to have seated correctly and shows no sign of leaking. But I'd like to make this right. I know that the stem is threaded into the block. Anything anyone can tell me about getting the old one out and new in, especially with the engine in place? Anything to look out for? Am I just going to grab it with channel locks and twist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Never pull out a threaded fastener with channel locks. Use two nuts as lock-nuts, by turning them against each other. Having said that, I've never removed the oil filter stud and am not sure of how it's fastened to the block off the top of my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 I'd say keep giving the threads a try... Make sure you use plenty of cutting fluid and go slowly. If you have the type of die that can expand/contract with a screw, then expand it a bunch first and then contract at periodically. You're gonna ruin it taking it out anyways, and you won't be able to really fix the threads with it out of the block, so I'd say keep trying with a die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 I'd say keep giving the threads a try... Make sure you use plenty of cutting fluid and go slowly. If you have the type of die that can expand/contract with a screw, then expand it a bunch first and then contract at periodically. You're gonna ruin it taking it out anyways, and you won't be able to really fix the threads with it out of the block, so I'd say keep trying with a die. The die is JUST NOT going to work. It was too tight right out at the start of the thread, where there is no problem at all. I expanded it as much as I could. If I had continued, I would have produced a thread that did not match the filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctc Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) I used channel locks or vise grips. Trashed the old part getting it out. New steam from Nissan threaded back in no problem. Edited February 19, 2012 by ctc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctc Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 I used channel locks or vise grips. Trashed the old part getting out. New steam from Nissan threaded back in no problem. Added some pics of the new stem I installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 If I can get a stud off of one of my spare blocks, you're welcome to it for the cost of shipping. It would just be going to the scrap yard anyway If your current one is trashed, I'd channel lock away at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 The die is JUST NOT going to work. It was too tight right out at the start of the thread, where there is no problem at all. I expanded it as much as I could. If I had continued, I would have produced a thread that did not match the filters. Well I guess that solves that, a new stem is in order, or a new die. The stem is probably cheaper than a new die though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Since the threads are trashed already I'd hit it with a 12" or larger pipe wrench. A pipe wrench will bite down on it much harder than you could ever squeeze it with channel locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 If I can get a stud off of one of my spare blocks, you're welcome to it for the cost of shipping. It would just be going to the scrap yard anyway If your current one is trashed, I'd channel lock away at it! I certainly appreciate the offer! If you are up to it, go ahead and try to pull one off. Obviously if it gets trashed in the process, you can save yourself the trouble of boxing it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 If you have the chance I would also try and get a turbo oil cooler adapter sandwich plate thing. Never know how that might come in handy. More expensive than just replacing the regular one though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) If you have the chance I would also try and get a turbo oil cooler adapter sandwich plate thing. Never know how that might come in handy. More expensive than just replacing the regular one though. Blu, Thanks for the thought. But I have never had anything like an over heating problem. The other day I had to grind down the 5 from Burbank to Hawthorn. Admittedly it is winter, but a warm winter. Bumper to bumper the whole way there. My gauge almost always reads just to the cool side of the middle mark. Seriously, the needle goes there and locks, just touching the mark. Unless I get into traffic. In this case it crept up until it was right over the mark. It never has gone to the right of the central mark (which on my Stag is not numbered in any way.) If I ever build a high horse power car, possibly this will be a concern. But at ~130hp with a custom rad built to absolutely fill every available inch, this motor has never even remotely suggested that it was going to boil. Jeeze, I do like these engines. Edited February 20, 2012 by BlueStag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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