ZAMMM Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I have recently installed a new aluminum 3 row rad and also a new water temp sensor and noticed that the car is running hotter. I noticed that the old water temp sensor was nasty with build up but Im also wondering if there is a proper way to bleed the coolant system on this car. Its running almost about 3 quarters on the temp gauge which I would believe would be hotter than 200 degrees with the a/c off. When I installed the radiator I used a 50/50 mix and also added a small amount of water wetter. I let the car idle until it was warm with the heat valve pushed to the hottest setting with the fan off and also had the rad cap off to check for bubbles. Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Warm up the engine from a cold startup and make sure your thermostat is opening and your fans are working/ turning on at the right temp. Find the highest point in the cooling system to bleed out all the air. Sometimes it also helps to jack up the front of the car and blast the heater while your adding water and bleeding the system. Generally if i'm trying to bring water temps down a bit I like to lean out the coolant and add more distilled water and water wetter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 How old is the thermostat? It may be bad, might be worth replacing. I'd ask the same question about the water pump. Chances are also that the old water temp sensor wasn't working properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Sounds like bubbles. Do what the first guy said and burp the system. I run a 70/30 water to coolant with water better. My car normally doesn't get above 200ish. When I swapped out my sensor in my 260z it did read higher but not that much higher. Ultimately you can get a infrared heat gun and actually measure the temp of your coolant lines to see if your gauge is accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 (edited) yeah I'd say anywhere between 180-200 ish is normal. My car is 180 on the nose warmed up at an idle. Edited May 1, 2012 by OldAndyAndTheSea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I am now using a 160f T-stat and I drilled a small hole through it. This way I know for absolute certain that water is always circulating. Had a scare once with a stuck t-stat and a sensor that wasn't reading the true situation (meltdown). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I run the equivalent of the Nissan Tropical Thermostat (72C / 160F) and don't have any of the problems people do running the Temperate (82C / 180F) or the Frigid... If its summer, and your temperatures will not drop appreciably below 21C, you're pushing it with "Temperate", if your temperatures are above 30C, you're simply asking for issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I am now using a 160f T-stat and I drilled a small hole through it. This way I know for absolute certain that water is always circulating. Had a scare once with a stuck t-stat and a sensor that wasn't reading the true situation (meltdown). I run the equivalent of the Nissan Tropical Thermostat (72C / 160F) and don't have any of the problems people do running the Temperate (82C / 180F) or the Frigid... If its summer, and your temperatures will not drop appreciably below 21C, you're pushing it with "Temperate", if your temperatures are above 30C, you're simply asking for issues. I run a 170F in mine with a iffy original radiator. Drilling a small bleeder hole IF the T-stat did not have one is a good idea. Its small enough that it will not affect warmup and will prevent an air pocket in the cylinder head. A good T-stat will have one already. Im with Tony on the heat range. Learned that one long ago, but he drives in a warmer area than I. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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