Jump to content
HybridZ

New to S130s Nedd a little help!


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, my name is Connor, I'm 15, and i own a 1972 Vw bus, and Now a 1979 Datsun 280zx! I bought the car from a friend for 400 dollars and drove it home. It is in great condition mechanically, but the front 2 fenders are dented due to a small fender bender my friend had. It al read has MSA 2-3 headers, i plan on cutting the y pipe. and having true duals! Anyway, the reason i am here, is because i was wandering if i could get some suggestions on some mods that many of you guys have had experience with, I also put a ghetto Cold air intake on it as well, So if you would please give me some suggestions on what i could do to my L28e! Thank you a lot for your time!

Now pics of said car.

IMG_2713.jpg

 

IMG_2714.jpg

Missing a lug,

IMG_2715.jpg

 

IMG_2716.jpg

 

IMG_2717.jpg

 

IMG_2718.jpg

 

Thanks again guys!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a great thread to read to get the basics down of how the L-Jet fuel injection system works and how it's affected by common modifications. Worth reading before you spend too much money or get too carried away, and for any future problems you might run in to. It should give you some ideas and help you avoid the more common mistakes. Good luck with the new car.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously clean all contacts, maybe a new set of injector pigtails, new cap and rotor and coil if yours is still stock( could be going out).

 

You don't need a true dual, it just adds weight and clutter under the car.

 

There isn't much to really do to a stock L28.

 

Now if you upgrade your suspension and change all your bushings you will notice a huge difference in how it drives and what it's like to put that measly 150hp (on a good day) down to the ground.

 

edit: more pics of damage and engine bay and interior

Edited by BluDestiny
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks alot guys! i will take pics when i get home lol, and i havent found any z- owners in florida lately. plenty of s13s and s14s though, here is the list i have thought about,

 

-Fix Body

-Paint Satin Black(Most likely rattle canned

-Cut springs, because im poor

-Polyurethane Bushings.

-Polished/ported heads.

-Slight performance cam

-3-2 headers to a glass pack

-Cold air intake

-Some sort of wheels

-and a welded differential

And if i ever get crazy with it, ill get the stroker/big bore kit for it that bumps it up to a 3100cc but i dont think ill do that, not any time soon lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stock air box works just fine, all you would have to do is replace the filter with something better. A true dual exhaust is probably a bad idea especially for a inline 6 it won't give it any benefit, just looks.

 

A stage 2 Spec clutch is what I used which worked better than I thought with a stock resurfaced flywheel. Aftermarket flywheel would be awesome.

 

Just learn everything you can about the car before you go off doing anything to the car, research & read a lot everything you need to know has been covered on here a before and after pics would be nice as you fix it up best of luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks alot guys! i will take pics when i get home lol, and i havent found any z- owners in florida lately. plenty of s13s and s14s though, here is the list i have thought about,

 

-Fix Body

-Paint Satin Black(Most likely rattle canned

-Cut springs, because im poor

-Polyurethane Bushings.

-Polished/ported heads.

-Slight performance cam

-3-2 headers to a glass pack

-Cold air intake

-Some sort of wheels

-and a welded differential

And if i ever get crazy with it, ill get the stroker/big bore kit for it that bumps it up to a 3100cc but i dont think ill do that, not any time soon lol

 

The springs on the ZX are super soft. See if you can find a set of rear Mercedes 280SL (?) springs and cut those to fit. They are significantly stiffer than the marshmallows that are in there now. If you put in urethane bushings that's great - just remember not to use them on the TC rods or only on one side of the mount per TC rod (each TC rod used two bushing). If you use urethane on both sides of the mount you will more likely than not break the TC rods.

 

Polishing/porting the heads is free HP as in any car if you are doing it yourself. Lots of good threads here on that topic. Don't forget about the intake manifold though as that is the real choking point. Port and polish those as well since they are very restrictive in comparison to the area of the intake valve itself.

 

Performance cam is wasted unless you have an after market ECU that will know the difference. Once you start digging into it you'll probably find the L28ET (turbo) swap is the best bang for your buck and the easiest of the motor swaps since it was made to go into your car already. Header helps - if you go down that road I would recomend getting a ceramic coated or Por-20 and header wrap. Also some sort of heat blanket on the heat sheilds goes a long way to keep heat out of the intake manifold.

 

Single exhaust is your best bet peformance wise. Leave the dual exhaust for the V8 guys. Yours will sound better anyhow :) (IMHO of course)

 

The stock intake is already a cold air intake. A gigantic cold air intake. Get a piece of three inch pipe and a 3" cone filter and you're done. Easy peasey.

 

Welded diff - sure if you are only ever drifting the car otherwise it's just ricer. Check out swaping in an S13 LSD pumpkin since the turbo Z31 LSDs are tough/expensive to find....

 

Stroker - nice but to me the L28ET is more performance for less...

 

Oh yea - and welcome to the club!

Edited by FricFrac
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously clean all contacts, maybe a new set of injector pigtails, new cap and rotor and coil if yours is still stock( could be going out).

 

You don't need a true dual, it just adds weight and clutter under the car.

 

There isn't much to really do to a stock L28.

 

Now if you upgrade your suspension and change all your bushings you will notice a huge difference in how it drives and what it's like to put that measly 150hp (on a good day) down to the ground.

 

edit: more pics of damage and engine bay and interior

 

 

The springs on the ZX are super soft. See if you can find a set of rear Mercedes 280SL (?) springs and cut those to fit. They are significantly stiffer than the marshmallows that are in there now. If you put in urethane bushings that's great - just remember not to use them on the TC rods or only on one side of the mount per TC rod (each TC rod used two bushing). If you use urethane on both sides of the mount you will more likely than not break the TC rods.

 

Polishing/porting the heads is free HP as in any car if you are doing it yourself. Lots of good threads here on that topic. Don't forget about the intake manifold though as that is the real choking point. Port and polish those as well since they are very restrictive in comparison to the area of the intake valve itself.

 

Performance cam is wasted unless you have an after market ECU that will know the difference. Once you start digging into it you'll probably find the L28ET (turbo) swap is the best bang for your buck and the easiest of the motor swaps since it was made to go into your car already. Header helps - if you go down that road I would recomend getting a ceramic coated or Por-20 and header wrap. Also some sort of heat blanket on the heat sheilds goes a long way to keep heat out of the intake manifold.

 

Single exhaust is your best bet peformance wise. Leave the dual exhaust for the V8 guys. Yours will sound better anyhow :) (IMHO of course)

 

The stock intake is already a cold air intake. A gigantic cold air intake. Get a piece of three inch pipe and a 3" cone filter and you're done. Easy peasey.

 

Welded diff - sure if you are only ever drifting the car otherwise it's just ricer. Check out swaping in an S13 LSD pumpkin since the turbo Z31 LSDs are tough/expensive to find....

 

Stroker - nice but to me the L28ET is more performance for less...

 

Oh yea - and welcome to the club!

 

Thanks alot! and isn't the L28et the same thing i have except the turbo mani and the efi? and the turbo obviously? And i plan on drifting it, and it already has 3-2 headers now! but i will check into the L28ET, i think its the same everything except what i mentioned right? my plan for the car is about 220whp, so i can actually drift, and i know i will have to probably go carburated to get that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dual Su's is referring to the carbs. You can drift with like 150hp.

 

PurePontiacKid is doing it with SU's as FricFrac said and another memember on ratsun, Awful hero, is also doing it on stock efi.

 

http://youtu.be/JqLpViCcLHE

 

Leave drifting to 240sx's. They are a much better platform since you have complete adjust ability with the suspension( at least compared to the s130), and have a bigger aftermarket. Plus they are a dime a dozen. Hence why I picked one up to DD.

 

If you want to feel what a decent 280zx should feel like, drive down to daytona and I'll go for a drive with you.

 

Also unless you're referring to v8 when you say carb'd, you would need to spend a lot (compared to a simple turbo swap) to get 220hp.

Edited by BluDestiny
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dual Su's is referring to the carbs. You can drift with like 150hp.PurePontiacKid is doing it with SU's as FricFrac said and another memember on ratsun, Awful hero, is also doing it on stock efi.http://youtu.be/JqLpViCcLHELeave drifting to 240sx's. They are a much better platform since you have complete adjust ability with the suspension( at least compared to the s130), and have a bigger aftermarket. Plus they are a dime a dozen. Hence why I picked one up to DD.If you want to feel what a decent 280zx should feel like, drive down to daytona and I'll go for a drive with you.Also unless you're referring to v8 when you say carb'd, you would need to spend a lot (compared to a simple turbo swap) to get 220hp.

 

Thanks alot for the info man! Next time im in Daytona ill send you a p.m i guess lol, unfortunately i see blue smoke, so i think i need rings anyway, It seems like a great time to do a swap. What would i need to do/get to do the turbo swap? Would it be best to do the whole motor? or just get the turbo? Would i need the engine wiring harness as well? or could i use the one i have on it now? I dont think i would have to mess with any Motor mounts for sure lol. I think it may be easier to swap the whole motor and wiring harness right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can drive a smokey L28 for a longggggg time. My neighbor had a 240z that would smoke a decent amount for 3 years, he told me he normally added a quart of oil every 1500 miles. He drove that thing to work EVERY day rain or shine.

 

You need to research what you want for your turbo swap. I spent a good couple weeks talking to people, reading, and looking for deals. I tried once before to do a turbo swap with a full car, and that didn't go as planned as I had to move and basically parted the car out. I bought it as a running turbo 280zx for $600.

 

Now I'm planning on just turboing my engine with stock boost levels. Basically got a great deal on most of the big parts, just need to clean and prep everything.

 

You need to read first ask questions later.

 

And also tell us your budget. The stuff you are naming costs probably more than you can afford, unless your parents got deep pockets. Let me tell you that $1000 will get you a full turbo swap if you do all the work yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

theres a lot you can do leave the fuel injection alone ,a mild cam advance cam timing to the 4 degree mark and it will have a good low end punch and autocross well.these are mine,the orange one is turbo charged on the factory computer and wiring harness

 

DSC_0009.jpg

post-3015-067809700 1337645288_thumb.jpg

post-3015-089629900 1337645317_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or should i just rebuild mine with carbs... and a performance ecu...

 

 

Am I the only one that caught this? haha

 

If you want to drift WELL in a 280ZX, you're going to have to be committed to the car 200%. The only reason I still rock a 280ZX is because of my undying love for the car.

 

Welding the diff is great for predictability, and I don't really notice any excessive tire wear from dailying with it, and if you run small tires, it won't hop around either.

 

Expect to do a LOT of sawing at the wheel to keep the car sideways with stock knuckles (and a LOT of spinning out, stock angle is WEAK, but not as bad as S30s! hahaha).

 

My personal opinion, lower it till you get about 3-4* negative camber to lose grip and run 195-205 wide tires. I'm at -1.5* and can't do 3rd gear entries anymore with my stock motor (like said above dual SU carbs with header and single 2.5" exhaust) on 205's. I have to run 195s or smaller to be able to hold a LONG drift.

 

 

Dual exhaust is, like said above, redundant. I wanted twice pipes myself when I first got my car, but with my ride height, there isn't any room to have two pipes run above the crossmember (in the stock location) a single 2.5" is plenty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...