ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Heres some pics I hope you get the Idea. I'm looking for some Ideas on were the best place would be for the inlet. As you can see the outlet will be between the tail lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Pantera hatch + F1 style intake scoop ...Out of curiosity, why are you doing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Sealed nose to reduce lift, lessen drag, better rear weight percentages,.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I would use the side windows with large NACA (style) ducts if I were to do this, and try to keep some semblance of a street car. If NACA ducts won't grab enough air on their own some window scoops would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 I was hopeing to steel the air that causes lift from the lamminate airflow down the hatch lid and put it to better use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted June 12, 2012 Administrators Share Posted June 12, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Here are some pics I have collected over the years. Clearly.. I've been planning this out lol. Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 (edited) Seal the front end save for a 2X4 bottom breather opening above the front splitter, below the bumper line. Seal the bottom of the engine bay similar to the Z432 FRP Undertray, and at the rear near the differential duct all that air up through the floor over your radiator, and out your back window area. In land speed racing this would be what EVERYBODY would do if it wasn't specifically forbidden! There is nothing wrong with letting air into the engine bay, as long as you can vent it to an area of low pressure. That back hatch area is one big super sucker... Insulate your tunnel VERY well. Run synthetic oil, and a tranny/differential oil pump and cooler setup. That should do it! Second alternative: Radical slant-nose treatment on the front end, and a pair of Small Car Radiators under the master vac and battery venting to the front fenderwells. Same sealing treatment under the engine, and at the firewall to force all air through the pair of radiators. Edited June 12, 2012 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Bow, bow to the carbon GOD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 (edited) Here are some pics I have collected over the years. Clearly.. I've been planning this out lol. Hope it helps. Yes they do help, Great pics thanks, looks like a pair of 6" to 8" flex tubing might be all you need for inlet if it was in a good air stream and you had some neg. air on the outlet. Do you think the fans would be able to work good in stop and go traffic with 2 8" hoses? My core size will be apx. 450 sq. inch one 16" fan for sure 2 if needed. I do like the NACA ducts maybe a one behind each seat in the lexan hatch Hmmmm Edited June 12, 2012 by ckrell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Seal the front end save for a 2X4 bottom breather opening above the front splitter, below the bumper line. Seal the bottom of the engine bay similar to the Z432 FRP Undertray, and at the rear near the differential duct all that air up through the floor over your radiator, and out your back window area. In land speed racing this would be what EVERYBODY would do if it wasn't specifically forbidden! There is nothing wrong with letting air into the engine bay, as long as you can vent it to an area of low pressure. That back hatch area is one big super sucker... Insulate your tunnel VERY well. Run synthetic oil, and a tranny/differential oil pump and cooler setup. That should do it! Second alternative: Radical slant-nose treatment on the front end, and a pair of Small Car Radiators under the master vac and battery venting to the front fenderwells. Same sealing treatment under the engine, and at the firewall to force all air through the pair of radiators. Yea I thought about taking air from the bottom but was worried about road debri and grime. Agreed A very well insulated tunnel is A must. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Maybe A 3" double on each side? Can't seem to find anything bigger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I was hopeing to steel the air that causes lift from the lamminate airflow down the hatch lid and put it to better use The air that's causing lift is actually the air under the car pushing up on the lower pressure air on top of the car. Air flows from high to low pressure. You will need to do something to make sure the hatch area (a traditionally low pressure point) has a higher pressure then you air exit behind the car. Also, the "Egg" has its radiators in the side of the car and pulls air from the traditionally high pressure car sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 I would be willing to try what Tony D said and take the air from the underside. I do want the highest pressure differants between the in and out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 There is a method for my madness... Been there, static probed that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Maybe more like this. Blue is the fuel tank, yellow is the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Wheel wells are also low pressure areas. Try pulling in air from the rear 1/4 windows and exiting it behind the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Agree with JC---you duct TO wheel wells, not FROM! For all this effort, why don't you externally mount it, and take slipstream off the roof like a Supermarine Spitfire? Then you can move your differential, transmission, and Water-Air Intercooler water-side cooler into that area occupied by the rear window, ducted from the quarter windows like JC Suggests... But I warn you, you're starting to make a car that might look a lot like one of mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrell Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 The car will be bellypanned nose to tail. Besides the nose and windshield base there may not be any other really good high pressure zones?? Scoop or scoops would make it easy and more choices. I need to make cardboard fuel tank, radiator and ducting, to see were things will really fit the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Ever heard of a Magnehelic gauge? Id strongly suggest one for what you intent to do, unless im crazy I reckon a 0-1" gauge would be sufficient for what you wanted. Would remove 100% of the "guess" work from the concept of "well i think this is a high pressure area.." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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