s30kid Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 I've been trying to get my car running so I can Drive it to work every day. (I work 5 min away) I've come into some problems. Problem 1: AFM is Bad. In the market for a new one. Problem 2: Fuel injection wiring harness is chewed through, soldered/taped back together. Problem 3: Possible blown ECU. Problem 4: Fuel injectors are DUMPING fuel into cylinders (but not stuck open) causing wet spark plugs and flooding. (Car doesn't start) Problem 5: WAY TOO MUCH PRESSURE IN FUEL RAIL!!! (That's what makes me think I have a blown ECU. Injectors not firing correctly?) Problem 6: Brand new spark plugs are caked with black. Running to lean I suppose? Solution 1: I have A new ECU and Full harness sitting in my room. (ebay) Solution 2: Next pay check I'm driving down to MSA to pick up a new AFM. That or order a $200 one off ebay Solution 3: New Ignition Coil (autozone) Facts 1. I have spark 2. I have Gas 3. I pulled the spark plugs, Let the cylinders dry out over a few days. Sprayed starter fluid in the intake, car started then died seconds later. Plugs were wet after that. So, how do I get this thing going? Am I missing something? do I just need a tune up on the timing and throttle body etc. Why do I have so much pressure in the rail? I pilled the inlet hose where the fuel filter is and it shot 10 feet out. Normally it would spray just a little and go away. Will this new ECU and Harness (which are both in great shape) Solve my fuel problem? I'm running out of ideas and knowledge. I'm... Running out of hope really. Every time I fix it something else goes wrong. Please, any solutions, ideas, helpful information is greatly appreciated. If Any other information is needed just ask and i'll go look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Problems 2, 4, and 5 are probably connected. IF you had crappy fuel when you first started your car, like 4 yr old fuel, it could have turned to gel and literally clogged the injectors, causing them to drip. My friend put new injectors since we thought that was the problem, but a week later smae thing happened, they dumped fuel. So we had them cleaned by RC engineering, 2 days later we get a call asking how me gummed up brand new injectors so bad to the point they were dripping drops, not a fine spray at all. I don't think 3 is valid. You said you're working with a messed up harness so until that is fixed you can't say a messed up ecu, unless somethign else other than the fuel injectors is going wrong. I think something is blocking you're fuel lines, either **** gas or rust. I would drop and check the tank before you actually install anything else in the fuel system. Then blow compressed air through the hardlines, then change out the rubber fuel lines anyway. Are you sure no one has an AFM for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 How much is too much fuel pressure?. What does your fuel pressure gauge read?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 What is the FSM spec. for distance fuel should shoot from the fuel line? Black plugs = "lean I suppose"? Doesn't make sense. This looks like a well-crafted troll message. If not, then the first thing you should do is measure fuel pressure with a gauge. It could be the source of all of your problems. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 I'm just going off what i've been told. I had a guy come over and look at the car. He said Defiantly too much pressure in the rail, Didn't need a gauge for that. And when he saw the new plugs were wet and black he said that the car was running lean and the timing was off. This man has been working at a Dealer Repair shop for more then 10 years. This is a serious post and I have no clue what to do/how to fix. I'm Going to put the new harness in and see if there are any improvements. I believe bad injectors could be the cause, That's actually the first thing that went through my head. And Fuel Pressure. If it is too high how do I lower it? Any other possibilities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makaofox Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Well first if the plugs are black means its running rich. If your timing is bad, does it back fire when you try to start it? Backfiring from intake or exhaust is a clue your timing is off. The distributor should have the firing order of 1,5,3,6,2,4. One you have that check the oilpump shaft and see where it is. Put the motor on TDC "top dead center" Verify that it is at tdc via the cam timing mark. Once it is at tdc check the oil pump shaft. The skinny part must be on the left at 11:25, other wise you will be off timing. I had this issue, im actually exeriencing a bit of the problems you are. Check to see if your gasket is the proper gasket. I ordered one and it was wrong, didnt have the inector cutout on the gasket! Also once you know timing is right, hopefully you switched your fuel filter to a new one as that can cause issues. You NEED a gauge to really know if you fuel pressure is 'too high'. Should be between 30-45psi, just hook it up on the out line. Which is the easiest place would be on the fuel filter, hook it up somewhere there, you should get he same reading. Since you have a new harness, switch it out, no sense in using the chewed up one. I hope some of this helps, if anyone sees fault in what I say please correct me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 He said Defiantly too much pressure in the rail, Didn't need a gauge for that. ??? He can discern fuel pressure by looking at a metal pipe? (this guy I have to meet...) And he thinks too much fuel pressure makes an engine run lean?? Black plugs don't = lean as a general rule. You need to get the FSM and follow ALL the EFI trouble shooting steps in the Manual. Pretty simple tests. You also need to stop assuming you need to replace this-or-that part. Do the tests, find out for certain which parts are good & which aren't. 90% of the time newb's think they have a bad AFM when they don't. 90% of the time it's electrical connectors / connections. Get the FSM, do the tests. Don't fool with the AFM until you've tested everything else at least twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s30kid Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 Alright, Update I just Put the ECU and Harness on, and now the car starts and dies. It does not hold idle. It didn't even start before. If I spray starting fluid in the intake while it's "running" and continue to spray small amounts into it I can get it to idle longer. So now if i set the timing correctly it should run correctly? Or at least run better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 It's probably your AFM. A lot of the trouble you had could be attributed to that, especially on a car this old. Stick your hand in there w/ the car off and make sure the flapper in there moves up and down freely. Change your fuel filter and try again. if the AFM is gummed up, then it's not going to see any additional air flow and throw off the readings for the fuel, causing a rich situation when you step on the gas. on the side of the AFM is a plastic panel, you could open that and clean it too, so you can be sure it's reading right when the flapper moves up. "It's reading right man, it's reading right!" Can't be, they're right on top of us!" "Game over man, Game over." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 It could be the fuel pump cutoff switch if it's a 75-77 car. The switch is bypassed at Start, generating enough fuel pressure to start the engine, then the engine dies when the pump loses power. The switch is adjustable by bending the rod under the AFM cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Careful adjusting that switch. If it's always on, then if you get in a wreck, the pump will keep pumping so long as the key is on. so just be careful how far you adjust it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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