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Sim

Time to purchase a Q45 for my 240z

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Hey guys - I'm a long-time member of Turbobricks (Volvo forum), and more recently OntarioZCar (with six_shooter - I see him on here as well).

 

Last winter I failed to drain the water from my 240z engine, and no surprise, I've got a crack in the block below the exhaust manifold. I pulled the engine and transmission out last night, and I've been debating what engine I should replace it with. I've been debating for a while both because I can't decide, and also to get the funds together.

 

So, I've found a Q45 for a good price. As I have limited room, once purchased and towed to my place, I need to strip it and get it to the junk yard ASAP.

 

The question is; what should I pull from it?

 

I figure I'll be pulling the VH45DE, wiring harness, ECU, rad, fuel pump(s), read diff, driveshaft, half shafts, and calipers.... should I consider the hubs, any suspension goodies, or cross-members? This car is going to need some beefing up, and I don't want to be junking a car that has useful items still on it.

 

thanks,

Sim

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I don't recommend it, really... They're ridiculously heavy, considering the whole package, overly noisy (axles bangining around against the stops) and I don't think they give an advantage over a regular R200 with a quaiffe. You'll have a ton of money sunk in the conversion as well.

 

And yes, I've got one, in my car, right now. Just ran it this weekend. If I had it to do over, I'd have never swapped out my 300ZX R200 for it. I know Mark Icard and others feel the same way. B)

Mike

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Engine

Save the rear end with axles even if you dont use them IF its the LSD unit

Save the engine harness

Save the ECU and relays

Some models have a fuel pump modulator under the rear deck that's deletable in a swap.

Save the key set for re-sale

I saved the bell housing from the last auto trans in the hopes it can be used to make an adapter or at least be used for a template

That pretty much covers it.

 

Dont bother saving the fuel pump unless you test it or know its brand new. They are a common failure for these cars.

Get on NicoClub(Not the greatest site) and search the G50 forums for known failures and the year you are looking at if you have not already done the searching. Each couple of years seem to have their own set of issues.

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Thanks guys,

 

So we're still all for the engine + components, but perhaps not the rear diff + components because of reliability/weight issues. I'll pull them out just in case, as suggested.

 

What do you guys think about the calipers, suspension goodies, cross-members, etc? I want to beef up the car a little (I'll be caging/strut tower bracing it), and perhaps some of these components will aid me. I'm sure I'll realize when I get with the car and take a look at it all, but I don't want to overlook something obvious before I junk it.

 

Now, unfortunately in my neck of the woods, the Z31 manual transmissions (even from turbo cars) are plentiful, while the Z32s are not. Should I even consider a Z31 transmission?

 

thanks,

Sim

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Alright, I'm back. and I've answered some of my own questions - I'll put the answers here just in case someone lurks here from the future:

 

note #1: no man can master the art of proper cussing until he is given the task to remove the VH45 and wiring harness from a Q45. By far, the worst job I've ever had to do - but perhaps I've been spoiled by Volvos with loads of space... and uh, relays that are organized in ONE area in the car. From the country that brings you Ikea, the Volvo is boxy, and is well organized.

 

note #2: cross members, suspension and brake goodies are fine and dandy; but too heavy and beefy and too much work required to jam them into the 240z. I'll just go with a brake alternative like that which is mentioned in the FAQ section, and some coilovers, and weld in my own engine supports.

 

note #3: the reason Z32 manual transmissions are used, is that their flywheels bolt directly to the Q45 with no machining. This is what I hear; as I haven't gotten my hands on one yet. Should have one by Monday.

 

QUESTIONS FOR THOSE WHO ARE FAMILIAR WITH REMOVING THE WIRING HARNESS FROM A Q45:

 

From the relay/fuse box under the hood (passenger-side), there are two main bundles of wires; one goes back to the firewall via the quarter-panel cavity, and the other goes across the front radiator rail, and supplies sensors to the AC system, and power for the front lights. As I do not need these things, I cut this entire bundle - but I'm not certain that there wasn't anything else downstream that would have been important. I found the bundle continues to near the air box on the driver's side, and there was a brown relay down there. important? thoughts?

 

Just ahead of the passenger front door, is the ECU location (standard for most cars). Just ahead of the DRIVER's front door is the TCU. behind the TCU is a large multi-plug, a hole in the firewall for more wires, and a large bundle of wires that go down into the floor and just inside the rocker panel. I assume this is for the transmission as well, and I'm considering chopping through it.

 

The reason I dismantled the entire dash, was to get the cluster and perhaps the ignition switch (which is putting up a fight). Is there any other integral box module behind the dash? I'm keeping all the units just in case, but thus far the only two units that I know are needed for certain, is the ECU and the fuel pump controller in the trunk.

 

thanks,

Sim

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Last question: from what I've read around here, there seems to be contrary views on what differential is in this 1994 Q45. some say a short-nose R200, and others say it's a R230. Additionally, I found teeth and sensors on each axle; does this mean it is an open diff, and just has dumb reactive electronics to keep it on the road? I'd like something active like a clutch pack or LSD.

 

I want LSD. I want a good trip.

 

O_o

 

Sim

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Ah, I didn't know it was marked. I'll check tomorrow. I pulled the entire drive shaft two days ago with the diff, and the diff-end CV joints off the halfshafts this morning. I had read over the thread about building them with shorter halfshafts.

 

question regarding that; I noticed the rebuilt versions have 6-bolt CV joints on the wheel side, as well as the diff side (requires another pair of Q45 half shafts). Why are they built like this, and what are they bolting to on the wheel-end? Are there end axles with 6-holes to receive this? Confused by the new setup.

 

For now I may be running my VH45 with N/A Z32 transmission with the stock rear end. I'm a little pressed for time, and I'm going to lay off pounding my foot to the floor for a while.

 

Why is there so much discussion about mounting these diffs - especially the front end? Top mount, bottom mount, solid, bushings, special contorted plates etc... The diff comes with two bolts, and rubber washers for isolation. Put a square 2" tube running width-wise accross the frame, mounting to either rocker rail (or cage) - it will go through the tunnel wall. Then bolt directly to this. Done. No?

 

Another random question (I should start a build thread) - is there a better windshield trim piece that doesn't require magic to install? Like trying to get a lens back into a pair of glasses, I foresee it being difficult. Any tricks? Anyone use just an epoxy?

 

Sim

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Ha ha, well this "skinny guy" was able to manage because he's still got a brain and a BMW as a pusher. The incline I had to get it up would have been too much even for a big dude.

 

I machined a spacer for the flywheel yesterday - it took me 5 hours! Pictures to come...

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