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R200 Vibration Issues


duragg

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Duragg:

 

Which Pilot ratings do you hold? Multi-Engine must be among them. It takes a VERY competent pilot to handle the MU-2. Used to fly them on coupled Instrument Approaches back in the Midwest. They get somewhat unstable on approaches especially at lower airspeeds with spoilers in place of ailerons inducing yaw excursions. Still working on my 240Z V8 conversion.

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I removed the existing side-axles and compared to these new ones.

Really couldn't tell any difference. Installed and both side-axles to compare and both have similar amount of "wiggle".

I was hoping for a tighter feel, but no luck. Didn't feel like running it. There was no appreciable wear.

 

So the question I really need help on>

1) All R200 (CLSD) side axles have a bit of wiggle like my video and it isn't the problem.

or

2) My spider gears are trashed causing the wiggle and it might be the problem.

 

Side axles... the splines go into the Spider and that is all the support they get?

 

Tj

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I just went out and checked two diffs on my shelf. 3.54 open diff with a rough bearing somewhere (it is rough when I spin the input flange, but I haven't torn it down yet) and a 3.70 CLSD. Both R200 of unknown mileage. The 3.54 open had a bit of up and down play in the output shafts. The 3.70 CLSD had NONE. Dude, you are killing yourself and it is painful to watch. Go buy another R200 - I just bought one from ebay for $200 shipped to replace the one with bad bearings. It really isn't worth the trouble of buying and pressing out all those bearings and beating yourself up over whether it is setup properly. I'm just gonna give my bad one away to anybody who wants to come and get it (the bearings are like $20 each, plus seals, plus dropping it on my foot a hundred times trying to do the work. I know you are pilot and all, and super analytical, but I think you might be a masochist too. When you put your LSD carrier in the new diff housing, I advise against shimming to 60# breakaway; I still have some chatter. I'm gonna shim (if shims are even needed) to about 30# breakaway to avoid the chatter - it is super annoying. I have a viscous LSD, with axles, that I'll sell (PM me for price), but it needs a full inspection as the gearing was changed by the previos owner. ColtGT45 went 6.1 in the 1/8th with a viscous Q45 diff, so viscous can't be the devil, at least for drag racing; road racing may be a different story. I think it is time to swap your diff, if only for trouble-shooting.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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I just went out and checked two diffs on my shelf. 3.54 open diff with a rough bearing somewhere (it is rough when I spin the input flange, but I haven't torn it down yet) and a 3.70 CLSD. Both R200 of unknown mileage. The 3.54 open had a bit of up and down play in the output shafts. The 3.70 CLSD had NONE. Dude, you are killing yourself and it is painful to watch. Go buy another R200 - I just bought one from ebay for $200 shipped to replace the one with bad bearings. It really isn't worth the trouble of buying and pressing out all those bearings and beating yourself up over whether it is setup properly. I'm just gonna give my bad one away to anybody who wants to come and get it (the bearings are like $20 each, plus seals, plus dropping it on my foot a hundred times trying to do the work. I know you are pilot and all, and super analytical, but I think you might be a masochist too. When you put your LSD carrier in the new diff housing, I advise against shimming to 60# breakaway; I still have some chatter. I'm gonna shim (if shims are even needed) to about 30# breakaway to avoid the chatter - it is super annoying. I have a viscous LSD, with axles, that I'll sell (PM me for price), but it needs a full inspection as the gearing was changed by the previos owner. ColtGT45 went 6.1 in the 1/8th with a viscous Q45 diff, so viscous can't be the devil, at least for drag racing; road racing may be a different story. I think it is time to swap your diff, if only for trouble-shooting.

 

I appreciate your concern for my well being, but this is a hobby which I enjoy very much.

The art of troubleshooting and fixing is a true pleasure to me. I am enjoying myself very much.

If I were trying to "kill myself", there are DCOEs under the hood... (three of them, each with different ideas).

 

I assure you, I am having as much fun as I can possibly have, I am not killing myself, don't know what a masochist is actually.

I am not going to buy another 4.375 R200 for a little play. We have full machine shop capability and can just fix it, sleeve it, repair it or live with it.

 

Shimmed to 80lbs and not a bit of chatter, FYI.

 

Your input on those other diffys is very helpful.

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I have a 4.375 R200 CLSD sitting around and can check what mine is like. I haven't had it apart, but not sure on its history. I'll just have to remember to do so after I get home from work...

Sorry, keep forgetting to do this for you. I will set a reminder for myself to check tonight.

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I'm not a T5 though,

Car vibrates even in neutral once going fast enough.

I have an 1983 FS5W71B that I rebuilt myself (second one I've done).

 

1) Pinion flange on the R200 sideways?

I will put a dial indicator on the face and check runout.

2) Trans shaft way bent.

I will put a dial indicator on the sleeve that goes into the tranny and check runout.

It didn't buzz like this with the old diffy, but the D/S speeds are way up now with the 4.38

3) New driveshaft AFU (same as old one?)

Will have the dork re-balance it.

4) Angles AFU

Will check those too.

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In chasing my vibration issues, the only thing I did that seemed to make a direct impact on the issue was moving my diff foward. It made my subtle vibration in the 3300rpm range(3rd gear most pronounced) much more prevelant. So the only thing I see that I changed was the angle.So I'm going to start shimming both sides of the angle(under tranny or diff) to prove that it did make the change.

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My money is on angles.

 

On this today, JM.

 

What is needed is the tranny rear face angle equal to the input of the diffy angle.

This will make them both parallel.

 

There may be a height offset which will set the relative angle of the joints that we want less than 3 degrees and more than zero if I read correctly.

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