~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Finally got around to making a video with my exhaust all up to specs for your listening pleasure.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) Here's the long awaited front brake kit from Silvermine motors. S12W calipers, vented rotors, s/s lines, 5/16" master cyl. Edited March 10, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Thats awesome. I am trying to sort my exhaust, its the MSA 2.5 inch with the Magnaflow "Turbo" muffler modified to be straight through. It is stupid loud right now with the N/A motor. I want to put a resonator on it to refine the tone. I havent driven it enough to really tell me what its going to sound like, no tune and no time to tune it right now. I love your editing and music on the video. The setup looks great. Are you still wanting a tubular header, or is the cast RB mani going to suit you. I thought about the cast manifold, but its not a bolt on in my setup, due to the RB26 head. Either way, fabrication was my option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Thats awesome. I am trying to sort my exhaust, its the MSA 2.5 inch with the Magnaflow "Turbo" muffler modified to be straight through. It is stupid loud right now with the N/A motor. I want to put a resonator on it to refine the tone. I havent driven it enough to really tell me what its going to sound like, no tune and no time to tune it right now. I love your editing and music on the video. The setup looks great. Are you still wanting a tubular header, or is the cast RB mani going to suit you. I thought about the cast manifold, but its not a bolt on in my setup, due to the RB26 head. Either way, fabrication was my option. Thanks! I can definitely see how not having a tune can really effect the exhaust note. Prior to my ecu resetting it sounded like a cross between a motorbike and a boat. I plan on doing more video in the future. I took a sick day today so I was able to slap that video together in a few hours but once I can get another set of hands to handle the camera I'll be able to devote the time towards something more legitimate. I'll probably stick with the cast mani for a while. Power wise the motor feels right on par, once I get the new diff in that will make a world of difference. Also really happy on how this thing sounds at the moment. When I went with the tubular header on my previous rb it did add some raspyness to it, not in a bad way but the deep throaty note was missed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) Found this vintage Italian made RAID steering wheel and snatched it up. 360mm, slightly smaller diameter than stock but you can still see all the gauges clearly. It reminds me of the momo prototipo but with a little deeper dish and nice little thumb grooves. Using a momo hub adapter with 1/2" momo to nardi adapter putting the wheel approx 1" closer to me which is nice. Twisty roads are more fun now! Whole car feels less aged than it did with the pencil thin stock unit. Don't mind the Wolfsburg horn button, on the hunt for a proper piece. Edit: Got a matching horn button, I didn't know it when I bought it that it would fit flush but I'm glad it is. Looks clean. Edited May 6, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) Got around to installing the Stage 4 front brake set-up this weekend. I had been toying around with what color to paint the calipers and settled on orange since the color you see most on the car other than black is the the amber turn signal lights. I was sold after looking at some black lambos with orange calipers.. So I ordered a brush on kit I've used in the past from G2. Opened it up and the color swatch on the can looked bright red to me which was not the type of orange I was after. I returned it and found out G2 makes a limited edition Mustang color called grabber orange. This looked like the one so went ahead and ordered it. Naturally had to pay more for the limited edition color. A couple of old jacks made a nice stand. After paint. Turned out great, I was a little worried about the color being too wild but I love it..and they match the amber signals near perfect. Edited April 9, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969honda Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 That looks sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 KnuckleDuster, You find the best stuff, that angled shifter would save me a lot of headache, modify my stock unit. Didn't see it in the Nismo shop online. Do you have a part number? Thanks Bonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 KnuckleDuster, You find the best stuff, that angled shifter would save me a lot of headache, modify my stock unit. Didn't see it in the Nismo shop online. Do you have a part number? Thanks Bonk Here's a site showing the different part #'s since I don't know what your working with exactly. This is not who I ordered from so I can't speak for those guys. http://www.nengun.com/nismo/short-shift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 (edited) While cleaning up some wiring I decided to replace my beat up battery ground wire and improve grounding at a few other areas. It's been about 13 years since I installed a "grounding kit" and at the time I did notice it to improve throttle response. I figured this old car with a different motor could benefit from some improved grounding. Here's the old negative cable. New cable. I found this universal kit that's made in Japan by Pivot. Some of their claims: I only ended up using 3 of the 5 ground wires. Alternator, head, and body were the spots I decided to hit. I also replaced the yellow sleeves with some black shrink wrap. I can't really say if I feel a difference in anything yet because I don't drive the car enough and now my ecu needs to re-learn everything but for about $40 total why not. Edited April 25, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) Decided to ditch the windshield wiper motor in favor of weight loss. I'm going to finish painting everything inside with por 15. The wiper motor and arms came in right around 7 lbs. I would like to remove the heater core next, it's likely to be quite a bit heavier, and having a heater is useless to me. Maybe a better spot to mount the ecu too? Also have a couple other things in the works.. Edited May 6, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 Decided to change out the stock 280z hood vents for a different look, something with a more hot rod/custom look to it. Got these louvered hood vents from www.skillard.com and couldn't be happier. Love the look of them. I ordered them in raw aluminum because Ill be powder coating them in a gloss black to match. I intended to install my louvered inspection lids to go with these but the vents on the inspection lids are taller and not quite as long so I'll probably hold off on that until I can find a pair that will match the hood vents. As far as cooling goes I'm not sure what will suck air out better at speed, the stock vents or the louvers. I'm sure the stock vents work much better when sitting still but the motor runs pretty cool anyhow. A side benefit will be when washing the car not getting water all over in the engine bay. Not bolted down yet, just placed in for test fitting. I would like to leave the underside raw aluminum, I think that would be kinda cool and break up all the darkness. We shall see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 So I've been battling with a lean condition that would only go away after the car was good and hot after 45min plus of driving. Turned out to be the coolant temp sensor. It tells the ecu the temperature in order to determine how much fuel to give it. Since the motor sat for a while the temp sensor had collected quite a bit of corrosion on it. I ordered a new sensor part # 22630-44B20 and fixed the problem. As of right now the car is running perfectly. Thanks to winstonusmc for the suggestion. Also cleaned up the grounds that were on the coolant neck as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Glad you got it sorted. I have definitely seen bad temp sensors on an RB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 (edited) It's been on the shelf for 6 months but got around to the ATI crank pulley today. Removal / install went smooth. According to the internet (which is never wrong) removing 1 pound off the crank equals to freeing up 2.7hp. The stock pulley came in right around 11 pounds where the ATI was around 4.5. So my butt dyno should tell me I gained 17 hp back. We shall see. Just need to order the proper belt now. Edited June 5, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 (edited) Got the louvered vents and lids back from the powder coater. I sold the lids which had 4 louvers in favor of these with 6 louvers. They seem to match up better with whats going on with the hood vents. Overall very pleased. Edited June 9, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 (edited) This ones for you Serban. Got a JWT pop charger! These were the go to intake upgrade for sr20's back in the day. The make a great intake growl noise and have been dyno proven to make around 6hp. The don't make them for RB motors but the Z32 300zx has the same maf housing. Edited June 9, 2016 by ~KnuckleDuster~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 Ok so back to back butt dyno testing! The ATI Damper VS. Pop Charger. The ATI Damper was noticeable in the mid to high rpm range. The car did feel slightly faster. Not like a hp gain but more like taking a couple pounds off a flywheel for instance, the car accelerated as if it dropped some weight. If your turbo I highly doubt you will notice anything from this. Next I installed the Jim Wolf Technologies pop charger. I didn't notice any increased intake noise which I'm pretty sure is due to the fact I'm running such a free flowing exhaust. If it was a little more restricted I'm sure I'd be getting that roar that's so common. That was a let down, I was hoping for some fake ITB sounds coming from the engine bay lol. The exhaust note on the other hand became more refined, deeper, richer even. As for power? It was noticeable from down low all the way to the top. This thing made a very big difference. It feels great, pulls a lot harder and sounds better than ever. In the end I was glad the crank pulley was changed out, the rubber was cracking on the backside which would eventually lead to a failure. If your looking for a seat of the pants difference, go with a quality intake over a damper 4x the price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winstonusmc Posted June 9, 2016 Share Posted June 9, 2016 I know of a way to make ITB noise, it's a little more expensive than a pop charger though. Video? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~KnuckleDuster~ Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 I know of a way to make ITB noise, it's a little more expensive than a pop charger though. Video? Lol, engine management owns me though. I prefer plug & play and bolt on hah. It would be interesting to see dyno comparisons between our motors. I'll do my best to get a video up, I've got a one month old baby girl here now so time is money. Here's some pictures of the louvered action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.