Mikelly Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 rsicard, I think the best solution for oiling is a drysump by far. I'll continue to run the champ 7 qt roadrace pan/tray/scraper and the accusump/remote filter/cooler setup until I move off to the LS1. Those headers I don't think will fit my application, but I'm thinking about getting Jerr's headers from him and cutting them to fit or buying some Sandersons and starting some chop/cut/build. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Tim240Z converted a set of S&S to tri-y's some time ago. Tim240z I bought the engine and tri-y's from Tim many years ago. Although they were nice, they were too low for me and I sold them to someone else on eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 I bought the engine and tri-y's from Tim many years ago. Although they were nice, they were too low for me and I sold them to someone else on eBay. I have those headers now, but I didn't get them on ebay. I also have Tim's car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stock600 Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Id reccomend the CC178, they fit my car well and sure support a bunch of power. I used mandrel 3" pipe and ran mine out the front fenders Pro Mod style, lol. Looks good and sounds killer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxfiend1967 Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 S and s headers with motor plate headers half inch below oil pan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 I ended up with a set of hooker headers that jnjdragracing sent me. They have a slip joint on the #1 exhaust pipe on the driver's side that allows you to remove the section before installing/removing from car. Should make getting around the Steering shaft cake, and hangs about as low as my 7 inch deep oil pan. I'm now cutting up the oil pan on the passenger side to clear that side header. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Mike, I'm pretty sure the hookers are designed for the scarab engine position. Check the fit on the drivers side before you put a bunch of work into the pass side. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 John I hope like hell you're wrong. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I'm just about positive you are right JT. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 And again, I hope you're both wrong. Otherwise, I'll be bolting these block huggers back up. The one thing I've ALWAYS hated about the Datsun swap is the LACK OF F'N HEADER OPTIONS for guys who actually track their friggin' cars... It's such a compromise over and over... Pan clearance, header clearance, heat issues... Goddamn I don't know why we do this to ourselves...Ugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 I agree, the headers and exhaust are the biggest problem with a V8 Z car. There's just not a good solution other than full custom headers. However, the hooker block huggers aren't that bad. Mark used them on his yellow car, and we know how it ran. One time we were both at VIR, my white car was making an honest 420-425 at the wheels, and he could pull me pretty good on the straights. That proved to me that they might not be ideal, but they can work. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxfiend1967 Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 If you use moter plate youll need 1 knuckle joint on steering shaft with scarab headers. That is what I used. They are s@s 13/4 primary full length. We moved engine back to center instead of offset to passenger side. Engine is still close to firewall. Plus plate helps reinforce frame rails. I went from 406 to 427 sbc. Stick to auto. Ps I have trans flywheel and all access to install. As well as 390 rear with disk brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Hot Rod TV just had a show on the dyno difference between short and long tube headers. There was NO significant difference in HP/TQ output between the two different headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 No significant difference on a low hp ZZ4 crate engine. I don't think that would be the case with Mikes combo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Well, the testing made me rethink the value of long tube headers. Does not seem to be worth the hassle especially for racing oil pans with two kickouts which is what I have on my 383 stroker engine. I'll stay with the shorty headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 Funny you should mention this... I ditched my kickout oil pan. I went back to a "cheater" IMCA pan that has windage tray and trapdoors. It's 5 quarts plus filter. I'll give up the 1.5 quarts extra. If it becomes an issue I'll go to a drysump. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Mike: Have you found a kit or all the components for a dry sump oil system for the SBC engine? Please advise. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I am trying to avoid going to a dry sump oil system. The idea of having to add another driven accessory to the front of the engine brings nightmares. I have a two kick-out racing oil pan that has (6) six trap doors. Additionally, I will add a pressurized reservior for those instances when oil pressure drops due to hard stop or corners. I want to road race my 240Z at Firebird in Phoenix. Much work yet to do on the 240Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 (edited) RSICARD check my build thread on the oilpan I just installed. It's pretty nice for the application and avoiding the whole kickout issue... And it was $59. Here are pics of the exhisting exhaust and the header I hope to use. The header number is 2147 from hooker. Edited December 29, 2012 by Mikelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Mike: Thanks very much for the part number and pictures of your long tube headers. I see that the LH header flange is two pieces and separates behind the number 1 cylinder exhaust and the slip joint in the primary tube. I will try to find the build thread which includes the newer oil pan. It is difficult to imagine that the cheater oil pan is effective for road racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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