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EZ electric powersteering installed


rags

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I've been asked by a few to write up something to show my experience installing this unit. I've done 2 of them so far, both with positive results.

 

EZ Electric Powersteering consists of a new column with an integrated electric powersteering motor, an ECU that runs the motor that is about the size of 2 packs of cigarettes stacked one on top of the other, a speed simulator and a potentiometer that adjusts sensitivity. The unit is a direct replacement for the stock column and once installed, is not visually noticeable from the seated position. Obviously if you bend down with the door open and look under the dash you will be able to see the motor but it is pretty well hidden from view.

 

Installation is very straightforward, so much so, that my unit came with no directions. 3 wires, a battery wire that has it’s own 40amp fuse, a ground, and a switched power lead is all that gets connected to the car electrically. The column mounts to the firewall with the 4 10mm bolts that hold the original column to the firewall.

The column connects to the steering shaft using a splined connection that eliminates the stock rubber isolator. If you look at the stock steering shaft you will notice it is splined at the top just below the isolator. Most people never touch this connection preferring to unbolt the isolator when removing the steering shaft. This connection, the splines, is where the new column will connect to the steering shaft.

 

For a 280Z, the column uses the mount that is bolted to the stock column to secure it to the bottom of the dash. Just remove the 4 10mm screws that bolt the mount to the stock column and move it to the new column. Now the new column can be bolted to the bottom of the dash like the original one did. The holes in the new column are predrilled and tapped to make this step easier.

 

For a 240Z, the column uses the mount that is also on the stock column. This mount however is not bolted onto the original column but is pressed on to it. This mount is easily removed after the column has been removed from the car by tapping it with a hammer. It will slide off of the column towards the steering wheel end once the ignition lock, light stalk and steering wheel have been removed from the column. Once removed, slide the mount onto the new column using the same relationship to the ignition lock as the original. If you don’t do this, your ignition switch will not be in the correct position.

Although I am happy with how everything turned out, I did have 2 areas that could be improved upon and have been in contact with the company who has addressed the concerns. The first concern was the offset between the column and the firewall flange was not correct with the assembly that was shipped for my 280Z. When installing the one that was shipped with the unit, the column was positioned about 2 inches below the dash mounting surface. I contacted the company and a new flange with a greater offset was shipped to my door in 2 days. I can’t get a letter shipped across town in 2 days but somehow from Holland to NJ is no problem!

 

The second concern is there is no locating hole drilled in the column for the light stalks. You have to drill this locating hole yourself. I don’t think the company will ever drill these as there are just too many difference in cars to make this change. Don’t get me wrong, it was not hard to do but I thought it should be there.

Once you have the column installed and inserted on the splines of the steering shaft, and you have the ignition lock and light stalk installed, the clam shell and steering wheel go back on just like on the stock column. When you turn the ignition switch to ON or ACC, depending on where you have the switched wire connected, you now have powersteering!

 

I mentioned a speed simulator earlier that allows the unit to be speed sensitive. I have spoken to the company to understand how the unit can use the speed signal from the LS1’s ECU and they have given me instructions on how to use that signal. Pretty simple, connect the LS1’s ECU speed signal to the wire supplying the PS’s ECU from the speed simulator. I haven’t done this yet as I don’t see as being necessary so far and frankly all of my time has been devoted to the supercharged LS2 swap :)

 

In a nutshell, would I do it again? In a heartbeat!

 

If anyone has any questions, fire away! I’ll be glad to answer.

 

Joe

Edited by rags
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Thanks for the writeup, Joe. I've been thinking that this would be a great way to add power steering for a while now. I was actually looking at whether I could adapt an EPAS system from another car myself, but its been on the back burner.

 

One question that I have is whether the new system retains the collapsible function of the stock column - its never been clear when looking at pics, at least not what I have seen so far. I'd prefer to not get impaled if I were to get into an accident... :blink:

Edited by TimZ
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Tim,

 

From the outside of the unit I am not able to tell if it has the ability to collapse or not. But then again, you really can't tell by looking at the outside of a stock column either :).

 

I'll shoot them an email and ask and post the answer here.

 

Joe

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Just took some pictures of my installation. I removed the small underdash panel so you can see what it would look like on a 240.

post-53-066048600 1348790149_thumb.jpg

post-53-096021600 1348790160_thumb.jpg

post-53-084941400 1348790176_thumb.jpg

 

And here is what it looks like under the hood.

post-53-081468200 1348790284_thumb.jpg

 

Man do I have to paint the engine compartment!

Edited by rags
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The lexus IS250 and IS350 cars have a power steering rack that isn't much larger than a hydraulic rack.

 

The guys at JM lexus were replacing them like wildfire because customers complained they could hear a noise they hadn't ever heard on any previous car........DUH.

 

Because of huge demand, I would think pricing and availability might be common but we were required to bash them in with a hammer.

 

If you could find a lexus technician with less scruples (you know....the guys who replace them under warranty to earn the labor when nothing is wrong with the car)........you might be able to swing getting one pretty cheap.

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Nice, see thats exactly why I wanted pictures. I was thinking the whole deal mounted in the engine bay. there is some good room under the brake booster. Seeing your third pict with your headers, right there, shows that it'll probably work fine with the VQ, since my headers will be that close too. I've got big feet, I wonder if I'd be kicking the actuator motor. Now when you're driving, do you feel any lag when you steer quickly? it seems that could be an issue. Also, how well can you steer if you lose power, eg out of gas, or battery dies on the freeway(bad alt)???

 

Phar

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As read on the provided website:

 

"In the unlikely event that the electric power steering system has a defect, the car would steer exactly like it did prior to power steering conversion. If a car fitted with an hydraulic system would have a fault the car would steer extremely heavy".

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