JMortensen Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 You're not actually planning on running it just like that with the diff bolted to the uprights, are you? You need to make a MUCH stiffer assembly to bolt the diff to. Have a look at blueovalz's rear plate that he made, or some of the diff mounts from tssfab.us, the various V8 miata mounts, etc. If you put power to that you're going to fold it like a wet napkin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 I do intend to brace it further, but I have faith that it would be ok as-is, especially with a hefty front mount. I think that many are under estimating the strength of this material. If you've ever tried to drill a hole in it, you'd know exactly what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 ITS guys crack the uprights at the top, and they're just using them to locate the suspension and they're limited to near stock size wheels. The front mount should control lifting of the nose, the rear has to control the twisting. The twisting is a big deal, which is why the stock mustache bar is thick spring steel and wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I'm also concerned about the strength of the small bolts that connect the uprights to the unibody (and the unibody steel tearing). However, what is the worst that can happen? It breaks and Josey goes to a back-halfed straight axle? Gonna have to cut all that sheetmetal out then anyway. As long as SUNNYZ is doing all the work, I'm all-in and axious to see his first trip down the 1/4-mile! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 You guys act like this is some 1000 lbft monster of an engine. If it breaks, (which I don't think it will) I'll just build it better. However, I have an Idea that might send all the nay sayers packing. Time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) You guys act like this is some 1000 lbft monster of an engine. If it breaks, (which I don't think it will) I'll just build it better. However, I have an Idea that might send all the nay sayers packing. Time will tell. Edited November 27, 2012 by 01vincer6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Considering that you keep breaking these beefy CV axles, take it as a compliment some are suggesting your IRS swap mounting may need more strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Just ordered mine. Let the collaboration begin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Just ordered mine. Let the collaboration begin! Yours looks more expensive! Haha. I'm interested to see how you do the mounts. I was drawing up some braces last night, but in the 25 degree shop, I was having trouble getting motivated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Yours looks more expensive! Haha. I'm interested to see how you do the mounts. I was drawing up some braces last night, but in the 25 degree shop, I was having trouble getting motivated. You would think more expensive but its just a brand new housing with races. So it was a bargain. This way I can choose which lsd to put in. Also it will be alot lighter during fab being empty! I have a couple ideas on how I will mount it but it will be a bolt in setup to stock points on the body. Axles I will wait until you get that figured out. Almost time to dust off the tig and get working again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 I'd probably be done by now if I had a welder and the car in the same spot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 I'd probably be done by now if I had a welder and the car in the same spot Your not to far away. I guess you can bring your car down here and we can get them done sooner. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrighttool Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 i think you are going in the right direction with the 8.8 irs ! keep the info coming . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 (edited) Not sure if anyone has posted this but just for reference. 90 Z32 TT R230 diff next to a 04 Cobra 8.8. The front mount holes are the same distance apart. Edited December 3, 2012 by 01vincer6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 Good reference. I've been busy selling stuff here lately. Hopefully get back to the buying and building soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLC Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 It's too late now but i think the weak link was the mustache bar and uprights not the axles, the flexing from the oem components would of caused twist in the algnment of your drivetain causing a break probably consistant with the breaks your having. imagine putting a stick between your legs and pulling the end of it untill it breaks. Anyway good project and nice build i plan on doing the cobra irs swap in mine as well. also another note to consider: the angles in which your axleshaft normally reside should match that of which the vehical you pulled them off of ie the for and aft geometry. another anology the way the rear end and the transmission have to be the same angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 Good thought. I'll hopefully be making a mount for the front of mine, as well as reinforcing everything very shortly. Major downfall right now is that my welder, and my car, are 8 hours apart Soon. yes, sooon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 (edited) Got a little done today. Here is the diff mounted. PLEASE refrain from the "you need to reinforce it more" comments. Its in the plans! Perfect clearance, as planned I also cobbled together a diff mount from cardboard. Probably going to cut out the pieces from steel, maybe tack them together, and then get this rolling. Again, being at a huge disadvantage not having a welder here. Another shot of the "diff mount" surprisingly, just eyeballing it - its fairly square. Just hanging there, it is sitting with +2 degrees of pinion angle. The trans is sitting at -1 degree, for a total of -3 degrees. I will probably shoot for somewhere in the -2 to 0 degree range, as there is no needed negative as with a live axle. Edited December 14, 2012 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 I don't think that cardboard is gonna be strong enough, lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dats Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Needs more cowbell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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