Co0ke Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 So my DNJ gasket set came in frame rock auto, I'm planning on buying a felpro head gasket but using DNJ gaskets for the rest of the engine. However, the bag was labeled DNJ and Fel pro? The head gasket part numbers are felpro but the kit is DNJ? I tried to look up photos, but can't b 100% sure it's a felpro. Any thoughts before I drive to autozone and have them pull one for me to compare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Update: Not making progress as fast as I would have hoped, With the holiday season people keep pulling away from my garage. Got almost all the parts cleaned, polished or painted. Just a few left. Should be able to start assembling the engine next weekend Baking the High temp paint on the manifold: Really pleased with the valve cover so far still need to get the paint off of the lettering, love that polished aluminum: BTW the black finish is PlastiDip it has a nice textured look and is removable if I decide to polish up the cover in the future. Thought I would give it a try...hopefully it holds up to the heat, no idea what it's limits are. Shiny! So this is what the clear coat looked like when I sprayed it on the fan pully? followed instructions to the tee. 66 degrees outside and everything....weird...maybe it will cure clear? And some parts I have left to do.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Car and progress looks good! I'll say that my experience with ANY spray can "Clear" has consistently come up short to my acceptable standards. Seems that 1 out of 3 cans may actually lay a "decent-ish" finish. The rest spray and give results like you saw. That being said, I like the engine enamel you used. Just not the clear. I'm 100% sure they have a gloss orange. I'd shoot that with no clear. You'll have better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted December 12, 2012 Author Share Posted December 12, 2012 yeah that was my first experience with spray can clear. Definitely below my standards....it did cure a bit nicer, but still milky....scratching my head as to why this is a marketable product? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 It's been a few weeks, so a quick update. I changed my mind on doing the piston rings since it would be real pain after the engine is in the car. So Just sitting here waiting for them to come in. Went with Hastings rings. Everything is sitting in the garage painted and waiting to go together and I have nothing but free time as im on Christmas break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenbooty Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Nice build! Can't wait to see an update. On a side note I noticed our avatar pictures are almost the same angle and very similar cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 (edited) Finally, I'm back at it after two months of down time:/ the HOA in my community found out the car under the cover in my driveway had no motor and sent me a nice get that pos out of here letter. So, I reluctantly pushed it into my garage and started to rip everything off I could think I might want/need/could sell. Took me a few weekends to do that then I was told by the nice man at the scrap yard he could come pull the car, with no wheels or suspension, out of my garage and to the yard for me. For$35 I was thrilled. Unfortunately he was insanely busy and after back and forth calling and waiting for over a month I finally got a coworker to come get it for just a bit more. So with my garage back, I rolled the engine over to the bench last night a pulled the pistons out, took a look at the bearings and ordered a new set of main bearing, con rod bearings and some ARP rod bolts. The bottom end will great a nice refresh this week as well as the valves then ill get to start to reassemble! I'm super excited to start putting my engine back together and get this thing in the car. On a side note my brother just bought a 93 rx7 so now my car must be finished and it must be faster than his! Kenbooty, thanks for the encouragement and I dig the avatar Edited February 23, 2013 by Co0ke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alvinheu Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 90% finished with mine and from reading alot about this swap.... forsure youll stand againts the rx7 of course with some basic mod on the l28et Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) Got the head on this weekend New crank bearings, rod bearings, Piston rings and a fresh deglazing. Head got cleaned up, lapped the valves....actually went back and used a drill and a fuel hose to re lap after they didnt pass a leak down test. I must say i looks pretty Edited March 18, 2013 by Co0ke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Thought I should list the parts I used in case anyone is interested and to keep record. Hastings Piston Rings Clevette Main bearings and rod bearings ARP rod bolts DNJ valve stem seals Felpro head gasket Used valve lapping compound from Advanced auto. Everything was assembled using Engine assembly lube from advanced auto. Studs were installed to spec using ARP fastener lube I ran into two problems in the process. one was the rear main crank bearing. It didn't want to crank down straight and seemed like it preferred to be crooked.....pretty sure it's lined up now but I dont like how difficult it was ...used a brass punch and a large screw driver to try and keep it straight while i torqed it. the other was cam towers. two of the shorter bolts started to feel "soft" before I could get them to spec. I was shooting for 30ft-lbs left them alone. I may go back with some thread locker but was suprised that they were potentially starting to strip the holes when I hadnt even reach 30ft-lbs....spec calls for 25-33....lame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 Got most of the engine assembled aside from all the hoses and vacuum lines. About time to pull in the 260 and get the L24 out. I think ill start that this coming weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Are you going to be using stock efi or will you eventually upgrade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 I'm going to start with the stock for now and depending on funds I will upgrade. Actually trying to do some research on just getting efi working in the 260z hopefully with the 260z tank and an external fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Pulled the 260z in yesterday and got the engine out in about 2 hours with a little help from my brother in law. Much easier with a hoist Starting to clean up the engine bay. Have some POR15 on the way. Going to paint the whole engine bay with it. Battery tray needs attention of course. Dont have a welder so the small hole that no one will ever see will remain for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Got the Engine bay painted with POR15. Learned a few things while i was at it. It got dark the first day so I had to wait till after school the next day....approximately 18 hours between coats. I roughed up much of the POR with 220 grit before applying the second coat and left some on the firewall alone out of curiosity. Well it didn't want to stick to the firewall so after a day of drying depending on humidity (probably) one must rough up the POR15 before applying a second coat as it will most likely not be tacky enough. I know they make a product to tie coats together but I'm not waiting for another shippment and I'm really pleased with the results. This stuff definitely appears bullet proof like they say. Also to be clear about the prep work; I used a 4.5in wire brush on an angle grinder for most of the paint/rust removal and purple power for degreasing then the POR paint prep to etch the medal and prep the rusted spot ....let it fully dry and applied two coats of POR. Getting excited now as the engine will be dropped in this weekend! then it's time to make her roar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250z Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Awesome build. Looks great so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the encouragement, I always feel like I could do better, but its nice to get a compliment on the progress. Well, the motor is in. In other news the transmission mounting point is about an inch farther back than the old one. I guess I assumed it was going to line up. Read a few posts where people slotted the holes in the tranny and the mount and made it work. so I'll try that. Haven't checked yet, but it also looks like the driftshaft will need to be cut based on my readings. Edited April 17, 2013 by Co0ke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Looks goood, Had do customize the mounts for my build also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co0ke Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) Thanks, I just hope after all is said and done it runs and doesn't explode too soon before I get a chance to enjoy it:) Small update: Life has been getting in the way. Have been in search of a summer job/career change amoungst other things and have neglected the Z. I did get the tranny mounted up with a little fudging and slotting of holes. Didn't really have the right tools and went at the holes with a drill bit in a dremel my only concern was possibly shifting the tranny ever so slightly sidways on its mount. Next is the driveshaft, definitely need to shorten it. I will know how much when I get the yolk from the R200 in there. Plan on sticking with the R180 for now since I don't feel like sourcing everything for an R200 swap and I plan on going LSD eventually anyway. Heck maybe ill experiment with welding the R180 since its only in there temporarily. Edited May 2, 2013 by Co0ke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 You could weld the 180, but still not a great option. Save your money for a real one or go with one of the swaps. You can install an OBX or Qaif or others out there for under the $1500. I hear ya about driving and enjoying. I have had some struggles on my build thats for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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