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Super easy CS130 install


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I've been putting off upgrading my alternator since installing a megasquirt

this summer, but the end of daylight savings time has also put an end

to my procastination.


I called a local rebuilder to pick up a 95A Maxima alternator, since the

parts stores in this area will not swap pulleys anymore. The shop owner

said she was not a fan of the Maxima unit, and suggested a Delco CS130

off an 88-90 Eagle Premeir/Dodge Monaco.


It turns out this is a dual foot unit with the mount lugs at 6 &12 like the

Nissan unit, and factory rated at 105A and has a lower activation RPM

compared to the Maxima alternator. The one I picked up was tested

and confirmed to max out at a 117A.


The unit required minor wiring tweaks, and slight massaging of the upper

bracket, but no major cutting. I skipped the bracket massage and picked up

a small turnbuckle at a hardware store, making this a straight bolt in project.

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Did the shop owner swap the pulleys? The internet says that the Premier/Monaco alternator is a six rib pulley, not v-belt. And, are you just using the S and L pins on the back of the alternator, connected to S and L at the car's T plug?



Looks interesting. Thanks for posting an extra option. How is it under low idle speed brown-out conditions - wipers, headlights, and heater on?



Here's a useful link for any future modifiers. Napaonline.com shows the pinout for the alt plug along with their product descriptions - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=RAL134551F_0209469829

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The shop owner did swap the pulley. I went with the large GM pulley, which is similar in diameter

to the Nissan. A small GM pulley would have been about 18% faster, but she did not have one

in stock.


At idle the e-fans would pull the system with the previous alternator down to 11.9V, now it hovers

around 13.1, both values taken from the ECU voltage reading and logs. I did not check the lights

and other accessories, as the the fans were the biggest draw. And this is at a 750 RPM idle, by

800 RPM voltage is back up to 13.6, so it is a shame the small GM pulley was not available.


The correct pins are the S and L (leg of the T). The shop owner recommended not connecting the

sense lead, so I have it taped off for the moment, but can connect it if desired.

Edited by Dan_Austin
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I can look up the part number for the alternaotr, but finding

it by make and model will likely be easier. The turnbuckle

and pulley do not have numbers on them.


The pulley is just a standard Delco (GM) v-belt, which a decent

shop should have on hand. The turnbuckle was a 3/8 X 7.75"

OSH special.


One small issue to watch for is the battery lug is low and on the

inside, putting it fairly close to the lower radiator hose. It cleared

by enough not to make me worry, but worth checking.


CS130 Dual foot lower

CS130 dual foot top


I almost had to retract my positive review today, having major

charging issues, but instead is seems a decent alternator can

quickly finish off a battery on its last legs.

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I replaced the externally regulated alternator for an internally

regulated one four years ago using the AtlanticZ write-up, so

no photos of that.


That leaves four wires on the alternator, the charge and

ground leads are self explanitory. The new alternator

connector has embossed labeling (PLIS or PLFS), with

only the L and S leads used. Connect the top of the T connector

to the S lead and the L to the leg of the T. The wires on

my T connector has discolored to the point that they look

the same, so a photo of them would not help much.

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I almost had to retract my positive review today, having major

charging issues, but instead is seems a decent alternator can

quickly finish off a battery on its last legs.


In Post #5 you said that you had left the S wire disconnected on the advice of the shop owner. Are you sure she didn't mean the L wire? With no (S)ense wire the alternator will put out maximum voltage. That might be what fried your battery.

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The sense wire is now connected, and I think it did help

deliver the death blow. On the other hand the battery

was a store brand generic I bought five years ago that

was plagued with an underperforming ZX alternator for

years. Its time had come, and was on my list, I just wish

I had replaced it before I had to walk the 1.5 miles to the

parts store caring the old battery to be tested and back

carrying the replacement.


If the lamp was not connected the alternator would not

get excited and not charge at lower RPMs. She actually

suggested the full time charge full charge, but most of her

customers are building ridiculous stereo & lighting systems.

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  • 2 months later...

I have about a 2.75" pulley on the alternatoer and the

Powerforce damper which is supposed to be about a 6"

pulley.  I have slight dimming with th idle at 750 RPM, but

none at 900 RPM.  A stock damper or a 2" alternator pulley

would help in my case.


I did initially have belt slipage that hurt the idle performance,

and once tightened past the point that I thought was too tight

idle output was very good.

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  • 2 years later...

Bringing this back up to add more info and details to the already excellent information here.  


I am upgrading an 82 280zx.  You can swap the stock 280zx pulley onto the 91 Dodge Monaco alternator and use the same belt.  The part number for the pigtail is Dorman 85854.  I drilled a bolt through the center and tapped it for a #8 screw to use as the ground lugs from Datsun are pretty small.  I also had to file out the main lug since the stud is slightly larger on this alternator.  Eventually I'd like to run new wiring back to the battery, but this was the easiest way to get the car back on the road.  









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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

The CS130 that I installed as part of this write-up died last month.  Sadly the local rebuilder I used

is no longer in business.  I found another who was closer, and who seemed well reviewed. 


It took several tries to get a workable alternator from them, with most issues being they did not follow

instructions about clocking or mount location/spacing.  When we got past those issues the results were

quite positive, with less voltage swing from idle to higher RPMs.  One thing they did get right on the first try

was my request for a smaller pulley.  I went from a 2.75" to a 2.375", which resulted in charging voltage

kicking in between 600 and 650 RPM, so no more dimming headlights while idling at a stop

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  • 2 years later...
On 1/19/2016 at 11:45 AM, schicksal said:

mikeatrpi did you crimp the F and L wires together on your harness? I'm trying to do this swap and bought the same pigtail.

I know this is an old post, but I'm doing this now. I bought Dorman 85854. The black (F) wire I believe should be (and was) just bent over and left unconnected within the shrink wrap.


For others, the P designation on the harness/pigtail is empty.



(S: red)(F: black)(L: brown)(P: empty)

Edited by thumper300zx
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I finished getting my CS130 alternator installed.
Alternator 3335-1222 CarID $75.39 (includes $7.95 shipping)
ACDelco® 335-1222 - Professional™ Alternator Dodge Monaco 1991, Professional™ Alternator (335-1222) by ACDelco®. Current: 96 Amp. With 6 Groove Serpentine Pulley. Pulley Size: 56mm. With External Fan. Plug Position: 3:00 O'Clock. )

I bought replacement pulley ($12.99): 10mm Belt x 67mm OD x 17mm Bore (part 2411001). Impact wrench took off alternator nut easily. Quick swap.
(Delco 10DN ER/EF; 10SI, 12SI, 15SI, 27SI/Type 100 Series IR/EF)
(the smaller [overdrive] unit appears to be 111 PowerMaster 2.35" OD).

DORMAN    85854    Voltage Regulator Connector    $ 5.24 (rockauto)

Got blade connectors on Dorman pigtail. Shrink wrap. Got turnbuckle at Lowes hardware. Picked up a couple thicker fender washers (had to drill them out just a bit for bolts to fit). Replaced rear mount alt bolt with one a bit longer (not enough threads on the one I had before that). Drilled a hole in a bolt and threaded (as described in other posts).












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