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Clutch fork won't move


Ben's Z

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I put the motor and transmission in, in one shot.  I went to put the slave cylinder back on last night and couldn't compress it enough to bolt it back up. 

 

I am using my N/A 77 trans with a Exedy Stage 1 clutch with a turbo motor.  Using all components from the exedy kit.  I tried putting vise grips and pipe on the clutch fork and it won't move back hardly at all.

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Movin the fork from there isn't easy even with a stock clutch.

 

Can you wiggle the fork at all or is it solidly pushed against the housing?

 

If your clutch slave is for a 280zx turbo, it is possible the push rod is longer for that application when used on a n/a transmission.....if it fits at all.

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Movin the fork from there isn't easy even with a stock clutch.

 

Can you wiggle the fork at all or is it solidly pushed against the housing?

 

If your clutch slave is for a 280zx turbo, it is possible the push rod is longer for that application when used on a n/a transmission.....if it fits at all.

 It wiggles some, but barely.

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that brass looking piece won't let the fork move.

The brass piece is the pivot for the fork.  It doesn't move.  The slave cylinder pushes on one end of the fork and the other end moves the opposite way, toward the engine, pushing on the pressure plate springs.  It may be that you didn't understand how the system works and have assembled it incorrectly.

 

I got some picture editing practice in, maybe this will help.  It's a cross-section so might take some study.

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Ben's has another thread on classiczcar.  Says the motor came from an automatic car.  Does anyone know what happens if you leave the spacer on the end of the crankshaft and install a flywheel on top of it?  Maybe the flywheel is lifted an automatic spacer's width.

I KNOW FOR A FACT, the spacer was left out from the automatic, that I do know.

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I made the mistake of leaving the spacer on when I converted to a manual and ended up needing a new flywheel and starter. The spacer was enough for the starter to slip and chip both gears. I originally thought I have removed the spacer, but apparently there was 2. One in front of the flywheel and one behind. I also had the same issue of having a hard time making the slave fit, by opening the bleed screw I was able to get enough clearance.

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I made the mistake of leaving the spacer on when I converted to a manual and ended up needing a new flywheel and starter. The spacer was enough for the starter to slip and chip both gears. I originally thought I have removed the spacer, but apparently there was 2. One in front of the flywheel and one behind. I also had the same issue of having a hard time making the slave fit, by opening the bleed screw I was able to get enough clearance.

 I can compress the plunger on the slave cylinder all the way with my hand, so that is not the issue.  Under normal conditions is there any tension on the fork from the slave cylinder?

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Ben,

The slave should just slide in. Where did you source it?

 

When the clutch is released there should be little to no pressure on the fork. If you can't get the slave in there, something is definitely wrong. 

 

Did the spacer you removed look like this: IMG_20130212_193601_752.jpg?

 

What size flywheel do you have 240mm or 225mm?

 

You need the TO bearing collar that goes with the pressure plate (225 or 240mm). This is a common error.

 

 

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Ok I leveraged my 18" prybar against the fork and got the slave cylinder installed.  Fork is now about half way between front and back as you can see.  Pedal is stiffer but this is a stage 1 clutch.  "Feels" like clutch is "right there", not sure if I need to adjust or I was able to force that slave cylinder on with the prybar so the clutch is technically engaged?  Thoughts?

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Ben,

The slave should just slide in. Where did you source it?  Same one that was on my car to begin with my N/A motor in my 77, 5 speed trans.

 

When the clutch is released there should be little to no pressure on the fork. If you can't get the slave in there, something is definitely wrong. Well as you can see in my post I had to use a prybar to get it in there.  However there is about 1" of travel in the clutch pedal before engagement now.

 

Did the spacer you removed look like this: Yes it did.IMG_20130212_193601_752.jpg?

 

What size flywheel do you have 240mm or 225mm?  240mm, 9 hole flywheel.

 

You need the TO bearing collar that goes with the pressure plate (225 or 240mm). This is a common error. Collar is from my 77 trans. Wrong collar? I thought collar was designated by early or late trans, not turbo/2+2, non turbo.

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Ok I leveraged my 18" prybar against the fork and got the slave cylinder installed.  Fork is now about half way between front and back as you can see.  Pedal is stiffer but this is a stage 1 clutch.  "Feels" like clutch is "right there", not sure if I need to adjust or I was able to force that slave cylinder on with the prybar so the clutch is technically engaged?  Thoughts?

 

You're on hopium.  As everyone is saying, there should be some play in the system.  If you levered the fork to get the rod in then your slave piston is bottomed and there is pressure on the pressure plate fingers.  It's like riding the clutch, you're just going to burn it up right away.  The 1" of travel is probably just play in the pedal linkage and master cylinder push rod.

 

On my car, I can reach down and push the slave cylinder rod back and pop it out by hand.  It's been working great for about 35,000 miles.  Force isn't necessary to put the clutch system together, even with a performance setup.

 

Several people, myself included, have figured out that the key to matching parts is to get ~92 mm from the flywheel surface to the surface on the collar/sleeve that the fork rides on.  Assuming a stock thickness flywheel.  The slave cylinder, pivot pin and bellhousing mating surface always have the same spatial relationship.

 

 

Edit - did you put a new bearing on the TO collar/sleeve?  Maybe it's not fully seated.

Edited by NewZed
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