Clutch fork won't move

[Sam280Z]

The fork is the same between models. You just need the correct collar.

[NewZed]

Another thought.  Does a shorter slave cylinder rod work, or possibly a different slave cylinder altogether from a different Nissan?  I found a new bearing w/sleeve on rockauto.com Timken or National/Federal Mogul.  They also have a turbo fork too.

 

Shortening the slave rod might get you by.  The sharper angle might put more wear on the bearing surfaces of the collar and fork but it might work.  You said that there was some wiggle room for the collar without the slave cylinder installed.  That's what matters most.  Make sure that the pressure plate fingers aren't partially compressed without the slave cylinder installed.  If they aren't, a shortened rod would be the way to avoid removing the transmission and starting over. 

 

To be honest, I might even try that just to know everything worked even before I took it apart to make it right.  If I knew that the collar wasn't already riding the clutch.  At least you'd have more to look forward to.

[Ben's Z]

The fork is the same between models. You just need the correct collar.

I don't think this is true, I believe the forks are different.  I ordered both today.

 

Any secrets to a garage floor transmission removal?  I was thinking cinder blocks on all 4 wheels stacked two high...

[BluDestiny]

I dropped my tranny with just 4 jack stands (maxed out to the highest) and a lo pro jack to ease the tranny out. Forks really shouldnt' matter. unless its a 4 speed fork and 5 speed fork I believe, and I think it's just the pivot point that is different then. I'm using a Z32 fork because they are a little beefier and a 2+2/turbo TO bearing and collar.

[Xnke]

The forks are dimensionally similar; the early 240Z forks had a hole in them for the adjustable slave pushrod; the middle forks were the same without regard to the 4/5 speed...no change there...the turbo fork is a slightly thicker steel; but then again every FS5W71B/C/Alphabet fork after 1981 was the thicker steel. 240SX forks are nice and thick, as well as Hardbody Diesel forks...THOSE are heavy stuff...Not sure if the aftermarket ones are the same; but OEM ones are pretty thick. (Also came with cast iron front bearing retainers for the FS5W71C!)

 

It's the collar that needs to match the clutch. If you are using a KA24 clutch on a KA24 flywheel, then you need the KA throwout bearing collar (same length as the ZXT collar) If you're using a ZXT clutch and flywheel, you need the ZXT (or KA) collar. If you're using the 225mm 280Z flywheel and clutch, then you need the 280Z throwout collar. if you're mixing and matching, then measure the stock setup first, and make sure your mix-and-match MATCHES the height...if it doesn't, then use the throwout collar that DOES match.

 

This is predominantly an issue when going from the 225mm flywheels and clutches to the 240mm flywheels and clutches.

[Sam280Z]

I don't think this is true, I believe the forks are different.  I ordered both today.

What Xnke said. 

The fork in your first picture will work fine. I'm using one in my 77 turbo conversion.

 

 

 

Any secrets to a garage floor transmission removal?  I was thinking cinder blocks on all 4 wheels stacked two high...

Please use jackstands. Cinder blocks cannot take point loads and can crumble unexpectedly. I would never get under a car that was supported by cinder blocks.

 

Sam

Edited February 14, 2013 by Sam280Z

[HowlerMonkey]

I've shortened the slave rod twice in my career and can't recommend it without a caveat.

 

On one car, I drove it 40,000 after shortening the rod.

 

On the other car, I drove it 2 weeks before the ball snapped off the transmission because it's 30 years of wear caused a pattern that did not like extra angle of the fork vs ball I had induced by shortening the rod instead of getting everything else correct.

 

You might get away with it but you might not.

Edited February 14, 2013 by HowlerMonkey

[Ben's Z]

Ok, I took out and installed my new throwout bearing collar today, it was shorter than the other one.  I also used a Turbo clutch fork.  I went to install my slave cylinder again, and the rod was still too long.  I said to hell with it and cut down the rod some.  I took a picture of the rod next to my tape measure.  I don't even think this is the correct rod.  What is up with these threads?  I took off about 1/4-3/8 of an inch and now my clutch seems like it has too much slack. I have not tried adjusting it thought.

 

What are your thoughts on this rod? Wrong one? Some redneck ingenuity?

Edited February 25, 2013 by Ben's Z

[NewZed]

You must be getting parts from your doppelganger.

 

Here's an old slave cylinder I took off a 78 280Z.

[Ben's Z]

You must be getting parts from your doppelganger.

 

Here's an old slave cylinder I took off a 78 280Z.

The previous owner had the trans rebuilt. Who the hell know how that got in there. I will measure my cut down rod to that picture there. I can get a used rod from a local Z friend if need be.