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Driveability manners of an LT1 396


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I just came across a killer deal for a low-mileage 396 LT1 for sale...the seller (buddy of mine) said it would smoke at WOT, but he wasn't sure why. I know I've heard oil consumption being a problem on these, so I figured it's likely to be an oil ring issue.

 

Anyways, I'm thinking of buying it and replacing the 355 sbc I'm currently running in my '82.  I already have traction issues through 1st and 2nd gears (I'm running a t56 with a 3.9 R200). I've never driven a stroker engine before but I understand they're more torquey than my current setup. I'm currently running 255/40/17s in the rear...I may be able to upgrade to 275, but don't know how much it would help. If it's going to be uncontrollable to drive at WOT, then I probably will just pass this one up. But I was hoping someone here would have experience with a 396.

 

So basically, for those that are driving around with a 383 stroker in a Z, how predictable is it? Would also prefer if anyone has first-hand experience driving a 396 sbc. It seems to be a more popular engine for the caprice / impala ss, but those things weigh around 2 tons so it's driving characteristics would be a little more stable.

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A LT-1 bored and stroked to 396 cu in and properly tuned should have little to no drive ability issues in an of itself.  Depends on what aspect of drive ability you are concerned about.  Depends on what you want to do with the car and modified LT-1.

 

A properly modified LT-1 can be the most powerful and efficient engine using a MSD replacement opti-spark distributor VERY precise ignition and fuel injection timing along with top notch cylinder heads matched with camshaft and induction system.  The proper combination will yield exception power and fuel economy results.

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This car is mostly a weekend cruiser, but will see the occasional lead foot every once in a while. I'm mostly concerned with street manners wot. I guess after looking at the dyno graphs of several 396 lt1s and seeing a virtually instant and flat torque curve, it made me question if I'd be able to control this thing at wot...hence this post. My current setup is a bit more predictable and isn't as torquey.

 

But I'm pretty sure I'll be buying this engine...it's too good of a deal to pass up.

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Again, depends on what you want to do with the car and modified LT-1!  With a properly prepared 396 LT-1, few NA V8 engines in the same physical size can achieve that amount of HP and TQ.  Optispark timing is second to none.  LT-1 uses reverse flow cooling system wherein the cylinder heads are cooled FIRST then coolant flows to the block keeping detonation under control with 10.0+ static compression.  At WOT, the tires will be burnt off in 1st and 2nd gear of a T56 transmission.  Use partial throttle and should be VERY streetable.  Once underway in second gear, acceleration with WOT will be AWESOME!  Same with 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th gears.  Think about using rear gears less than 3.7:1.  Mileage with properly tuned LT-1 EFI on the highway with 3.7:1 or less rear gears and 6th gear of transmission should yield 20+ MPG on the highway.  I had a 1994 Buick Roadmaster (heavy boat, 4000Lbs+) and it got 24 MPG on the highway at 70 MPH.  And that was 350 cu in displacement.  Zero Zero emissions when checked at emissions station.  Wow! And this is NO BS!

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Very few people know the potential of the LT-1 and LT-4 engines stroked to 383 or 396 cu in.  Properly prepared, they will outrun the LSx series of engines and ANYTHING that Ford has in that compact physical size.  Overhead cam engines just have more moving parts to break or wear out.  Cannot emphasize enough PROPERLY PREPARED.  The better the components used in the build up, the more power output!

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Ok I read thru the thread and let me point out a few things

 

(1) YOU can control to a great degree the amount of torque your appling to the tires by controling what your foot does on the throttle petal

(2) proper tires and suspension mods like modifying air pressure in the tires air shocks, traction bars etc.can be very useful but simply learning how to drive the car and how and when and at what rate you can apply power helps a great deal, that takes practice and experience.

Ive built and raced dozens of cars, each is unique and each takes a slightly different drive style, each car will reqire you to master its flaws and strengths and it makes little difference if its a 400hp street/strip car or a 700 strip car, your knowledge of how to set up a suspension, recognize how the suspension and tires work together, and work with the cars limitations will make or break the combo to a large extent

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=372&p=454&hilit=physics+of+racing#p454

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=906&p=27083&hilit=learning+drive#p27083

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=248&p=295&hilit=needs+500hp#p295

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=5121&p=14750&hilit=launch+traction#p14750

Edited by grumpyvette
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rsicard - Again, I don't have any plans on making this a track car...just a weekend cruiser. I wasn't even planning on replacing the current engine until my friend told me he'd practically give me his 396. And honestly the only thing that has me hesitant to install the 396 is I've recently seen 2 cars spin out of control. One was a 550rwhp procharged '08 mustang gt...floored it in 2nd gear and spun out of control, ended up in the ditch. The other was an 800ish hp cadillac cts-v that nailed it on the highway and spun off the road into a concrete barrier. I don't want to destroy the several years of building up this car just because the torque caught me off guard and I couldn't handle it. I'd also rather not have to run drag radials to keep the power down on this one, I'd prefer to stick with street tires. I'm assuming this was "properly prepared", it was built by MTI and from what I can tell they were huge 15+ years ago selling several well-established Lt1 396 engines.

 

Grumpy - thanks for chiming in. I'll admit that I'm awful about regulating torque with my right foot...when I wanna move (in a race), I just stomp it. I have adjustable illuminas and coilovers on this one, but that's about it as far as suspension mods go. I really don't like how much it squats under acceleration (another reason that I was worried about unpredictable) but I've read up on some modifications to help reduce that.

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Did not say anything about a TRACK car.  Just pointing out the assets of the LT-1/LT-4 technology with FAST burn cylinder heads.  After market heads being even BETTER.  Don't let bad drivers discourage you from doing something unique.  Driving style is a mental challenge.  It can be done wrong or right.  Approach driving a performance vehicle from a conservative standpoint.  Build into it to gain experience in how the vehicle handles.  Then it can be found where the boundary limits are.

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I do not own an LT1 but my first gen sbc 385 has all the go fast goodies and thru an unlocked auto puts 400 to the ground and close to 600 on the hose. It is a very easy driver, as I cruise it all over the Dallas/FT.Worth area. It only gets 13-15 mpg which sucks at 3.90 a gallon for 93 octane. The car hooks well on a 255/60-15 Mickey Thompson drag radial on the street or track, runs high 10's to low 11's on motor and 9.70's on the hose.

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Ok I read thru the thread and let me point out a few things

 

(1) YOU can control to a great degree the amount of torque your appling to the tires by controling what your foot does on the throttle petal

(2) proper tires and suspension mods like modifying air pressure in the tires air shocks, traction bars etc.can be very useful but simply learning how to drive the car and how and when and at what rate you can apply power helps a great deal, that takes practice and experience.

Ive built and raced dozens of cars, each is unique and each takes a slightly different drive style, each car will reqire you to master its flaws and strengths and it makes little difference if its a 400hp street/strip car or a 700 strip car, your knowledge of how to set up a suspension, recognize how the suspension and tires work together, and work with the cars limitations will make or break the combo to a large extent

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=372&p=454&hilit=physics+of+racing#p454

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=906&p=27083&hilit=learning+drive#p27083

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=248&p=295&hilit=needs+500hp#p295

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=5121&p=14750&hilit=launch+traction#p14750

 

 

I am happy to see a Grumpy post. Always informative. 

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I've got a 383 lt 1 in my 240. T 56 and 3.54 rear. It puts out about 425 to the rear wheels. It is a blast to drive. It does require some restraint. The car is set up very well. Most of what determines whether your car ends up in a ditch is what's between the drivers ears.

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I've got a 383 lt 1 in my 240. T 56 and 3.54 rear. It puts out about 425 to the rear wheels. It is a blast to drive. It does require some restraint. The car is set up very well. Most of what determines whether your car ends up in a ditch is what's between the drivers ears.

Mark,

I have another LT1 motor I want to build and stroke and would like to know what went into your LT1 build, it sounds pretty serious.

Greg

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Not an LT1, but gen I. 383, Isky Solid Roller 244 @ .050 613/585, 108 lsa, forged SRP flat tops, AFR heads, forged 6" rods, Scat crank, Victor Jr, 4150HP 750cfm double pumper carb, Ancient Mallory 140 pump -8 lines in and return. 1.75" Rewarder headers. Combo runs spot on with 36 degree advance on 91 octane. 6 speed aftermarket Tremec -lightweight 15# flywheel. 3.70 rear. Sounds like it would be a nightmare on the street, but quite the opposite.  

I often lug it around in 4th in town with out any bucking or protests. Torque is your friend.

Do something stupid, like stomp it on an onramp, 1st, 2nd or 3rd and it'll try and swap ends. Even 4th can break loose on cold days with cold tires. Just need to be judicious with the go pedal.

Also well tuned carb using a wideband and many tweeks to the metering block, high and low speed bleeds.

I like the old school hot rod in it. FI would be cheating. Well over a decade in this configuration with only failure a water pump to block gasket failure. About a buck. I get mid 20 mpg regularly and have not hesitated driving to and from the track on Nitto drag radials 150+ miles one way. 

Do over would be a with a bigger cam, underestimated the drivability of a solid roller. And quieter exhaust. Obscenely loud with 3" Aero Chamber. Ear buds a must for long trips.

 

In other words, build it with great parts and enjoy.

Edited by John Scott
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Is this a gun control debate? Who let the congress woman from California join our forum? Sounds to me like somebody needs a mental health evaluation so I can take his hybrid away in order to keep our children safe, Would that be a high-capacity 396 or just a single-shot?

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Is this a gun control debate? Who let the congress woman from California join our forum? Sounds to me like somebody needs a mental health evaluation so I can take his hybrid away in order to keep our children safe, Would that be a high-capacity 396 or just a single-shot?

pm sent

Edited by John Scott
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