tooquick260 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 Now since I am using the Z32 dif and Z32 rear brakes I wanted to also take advantage of the parking brakes. So, I am going to use the Z32 brake cables , they are a little long but if you extend them over the top of the dif to the opposite side back to the tunnel they will align with the S30 chassis's brake cable holders. I took the center holder that pivots forward when you pull on the e-brake handle and modified it. There is usually a hole in the end, I notched it so I could slide the 2 pivot pin ends from the Z32 cables in the center holder. Then I encapsulated the holder with 2 aluminum plates. The Z32 brake cables have 3 mounting points on them. The first bolts to the backing plate, thats easy. The other 2 are chassis mounts. I just mounted them to the underside of the tunnel to keep tension on the cables. Here are some pics. Works good so far. Have to try in the real world. The e-brake handle when pulled gets stiff on the 3 click and hard on 5th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 Ok I got the car on the ground. Technotoytuning rear suspension. I went with just the Rear diff mount, mustache bar and rear coilovers. Well, not so quick. I assembled all the components and the diff would not clear the stock dog bone and the drop downs will not bolt up. So back on the phone and ordered the Technotoytuning drop downs and dogbone. I got them and installed with another issue. Here are the pics. Had an issue with the right rear has to much toe and camber. Un-adjustable and not acceptable. Back on the phone with Technotoytuning to order there rear lower arms. So I have now peaced together there entire rear suspension. Nice stuff but way more money than I had plan. I didn't leave it lowered like that I will have it close to where it sits in the garage. The new lower control arms are on there way. Will be here tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) Onto wiring in the ECU, wiring harness and 280zxt distributor, coil. I really struggled with this. More wiring and reading than I have ever done. My recommendation is to make sure that you have the wiring diagram of the 260z and the 280zxt. The other thing that is the most important is the wiring diagram given to me by a member on another z website. I followed this to the T and it seems to work. The issue I had was my harness did not have the fuel pump relay. Had the wires going to it but not the holder or the relay. So I bought a new fuel relay and wired it into the cut wires on the harness. I ended up taking the coil bracket from the 74 260z and attached it to the 83 280zxt coil. Yes 2 brackets on one coil I did this because of looking at the 74's wiring harness, it has a fuseable links that are hot when ignition is on. I used this to get power to the coil of the 83 280zxt and to power the items on the above harness. What a mess. Its what I had to do to get it all to work. I picked up the drive axle today and installed it. It fit perfectly. I mounted the fuel pump here with the regulator. This is down from the surge tank. I put the surge tank where the battery used to be. I am filling the surge tank from the original gas tank via a 5lb fuel pump. I put tranny fluid in. My dad and gdad are Amsoil dealers. So I am using donated 75-90 severe gear. My dad ran this for years in is 1958 VW Beetle. He had 250 hp running thru the stock tranny with some trick parts. He ran NOS on that tuneup. Not bad for a 4 cylinder. Tomorrow oil in the motor. Run the spark plug wires the correct way. Check for leaks. Bleed the clutch master cylinder Bleed the brakes Check fuel pressure Check lash for valve adjustment If the car runs then I have to do something with the wiring. First put the ECU in the cabin run all the wires nice and tidy (HA) I will post as it goes. Edited May 3, 2013 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 Moving onto the throttle cable. I got a 27 in 70 cm ATV throttle cable. It ended up being a a little long. So I snaked it through the original throttle pivot rod. The large end of the throttle cable slid right into the 240sx throttle body's holer. The other end of the throttle cable had a small end peace. What I did was took the accelerator pedal and assembly out of the car. The stock throttle cable attached to the top via a ball and socket attachment. I drilled a hole in the ball ( not for the faint of heart) just big enough for the cables small end to pass through. Then put a small E clip on the cable to hold it in the drilled hole. Here are some pictures. Smooth operation works like a dream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 (edited) Real nice stuff. Your making amazing progress. I'm shocked since your dumping so much money on drive train.Brake/suspension modifications that your going with the stock ecu. It doesn't add up. Stock ecu is outdated and problematic if you ask me. Edited May 4, 2013 by softopz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 (edited) Yes you are correct. As the project started I was shooting for $800 to $1500 to go turbo. Well as things happen my brothers 300zx dropped a timing belt, ruined the head and he decided to move onto a newer car (F-RS). He donated what ever I wanted. As in any build the domino's fell and here I am! I am living at home and able to spend what ever I make on the car only because I got a new job making more money once the project started. I started budget minded and it has gotten out of control. As far as engine/fuel management goes I am planning on going with the Z31 distributor and ECU. But I want to get the car running with what I have and will shortly switch. The 2 week conversion has turned into 2 months. Martin of Z fever in Tampa has donated his skills to do the Z31 distributor and ECU conversion. Just have to get it to him. I want to make sure everything else is in place. He will retune the Z31 ECU with a enthalpy(spelling) tune. I figure that will be within the next 3 months. New parts arrived yesterday, will install today and try to fire the car. I was putting the last AN-4 fitting on the oil supply line and broke the fitting. Had to get a new one. Edited May 6, 2013 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 Ok, so the car is together and only waiting on front spacers (they sent the wrong size by 1/8") to complete as a rolling ready to run car. I attempted to get fuel pressure today and no luck. I am getting fuel out of the pump. I have fuel thru the lines to the ruel rail but no pressure on the gauge. Would a high pressure pump that is not thru a regulator put out a lot of fuel? like fill up a 8 oz parmesan cheese container in seconds? Mine on five seconds only fills up about 2 ounces! Other issues are that I have no fire at the coil, no fire at spark pug, also where would the ignitor fire from? Issues, I am so close...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calpoly-z Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Noticed you fuel pump is mounted in the engine bay. Do you have a low pressure pump mounted near the tank supplying fuel? High pressure pumps don't suck fuel very well and require there to be a bit of head at the inlet. Not sure on your spark issues as I ditched the stock stuff long ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Yes low pessure pump fills a surge tank where the battery used to be and then the high pressure pump feeds off the lower fitting on the surge tank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 Other issues are that I have no fire at the coil, no fire at spark pug, also where would the ignitor fire from? Issues, I am so close...... The stock L28ET ECU sends the signal to fire the coil out pin 5. On the stock ZXT harness, it goes from Pin 5 on the ECU to Connector (plug) #2 (8-pin connector near the ECU - Y/W on the side with: N/C, YW, Y, GL) and from that connector straight to the ignitor. The other side of the stock connector at the ignitor is +12V (BW) from the ignition switch @ IGN ON which powers the ignitor and the coil (BW from ignitor to coil+). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Thanks cgsheen,,,, I will check that today. i don't think I had fire from that side of plug 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Hey, cgsheen! The black white wire to the coil that is ingition on, i think you call it the ignitor, which prong does it go to? The prongs are in a shape of a T. I have the black white going to the top of the T and the yellow white coming from the plug 2 to the other. My green wire is ignition hot and the grey/white wire is from the plug 2 yellow white? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 You have that wired correctly. The "top" of the T is +12v at IGN ON (BW wire from ignition switch) and the "leg" of the T is pin 5 of the ECU. ( there are two YW wires on connector 2 ( plug 2 ) on opposite sides of the plug - just be sure you're on the correct wire when attaching to connector 2) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 (edited) Ok finally got fuel pressure. Had the regulator after electric fuel pump and before the fuel rail. Never got any pressure on the gauge. So move regulator behind the fuel rail and BAM it fired on the first attempt, didnt run but it is firning and runs for 3-4 seconds. My dad is helping and he cant find his timing light but we played with the distributor full advance to full retard. Seems better at the middle of the adj in the distributor mounting. Am I suppose to have anything running to the ecu about oil pressure? For the short run that if burbles I get a little reading on the oil pressure. Just wandering if thats an issue. Does the CHT important for the car to run or is it optional? I have mine installed just wandering if it is an issue? Any one have advice as to what to look at now? Edited May 6, 2013 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 The ECU doesn't monitor Oil Pressure. The CHTS is important for the engine to run properly. It's a temp sensor with the same resistance curve as all the Nissan temp sensors of that era. Easy to test with an Ohm meter - the chart (and test procedure) is in the FSM. If the engine's mechanical timing is all set properly, the dist usually works centered. The ECU controls ignition timing so as long as the distributor is close, the ECU can take it from there... Have you double-checked the AFM (is it unmolested, or has someone changed the spring setting)? How long did the injectors sit unfired? Are all of them opening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 AFM is unmolested as much as I can tell. Injectors sat for at least 4 years. I was reading that someone had an issue with grounds. Should I try to ground out all the unused wires in plug 2 and 3? Also does the ecu need to be bolted to the chassis and that is part of its ground? I have the ecu laying on the windshield not fully installed because I want to make sure everything works before installing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I was reading that someone had an issue with grounds. Should I try to ground out all the unused wires in plug 2 and 3? NO! If you don't need them, leave them alone and unplugged. The ECU does not need to be attached to the body in order to work. I have one now laying on the carpet under the steering wheel - engine starts and runs fine... If the stock harness was intact, there should have been 2 or 3 ground wires on the turbo side of the engine that bolt to the intake manifold. (they come out of the harness where it crosses over to the engine - by that clamp on the intake manifold) If it was intact, that should be all you need there. But, again, make sure the connectors and wiring are good. The FSM shows the GND pins on the ECU and how to test them. Then just make sure the grounds on the battery side are good (battery to body, to starter mounting bolt, alternator GND's...) OK, injectors sat for 4 years - do you know that they open and squirt gasoline? Are all of them "clicking"? Will the car start and run with starter fluid squirted in the AFM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 (edited) Ok I have not checked the fuel injectors. That will be next. I have the battery in the back. Should I run a ground from the starter bolt to a ground point on the chassis? I have attempted to start 6 + more times. I pulled the spark plugs and they are sooted. Other issue I have now from trying to start is oil pouring out of the down pipe. I do not have exhaust past the down pipe. Could that be a bad seal in the turbo? I know that that would not stop it from running!!! Could this be a problem, as I was reviewing everything I noticed that my drain line kinked. Must have happened when I was tightening. I did do the FSM test of the AFM. From the computer side the ohms reading is 150. Should be between 280 and 400. Then checked the AFM and same thing the numbers are way off! Before I pull the turbo I want to make sure I have it running. Question on the turbo? I have a -4 steel braided line going to the turbo and drain is a -6. Is that large enough for the drain? Edited May 6, 2013 by tooquick260 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 You need a larger drain line...OEM is about 1/2" inside diameter...so minimum of -8, clear through...remember the fittings neck down inside. I'd go with a -10 drain line if you're going to use AN fittings, or just use the stock tube...it doesn't hold any kind of pressure. Oil backing up in the drain line will kill a turbo very quickly by coking up and scoring up the rear bearing. It's the most common mode of failure in home-made turbo setups, and it's how I buy a LOT of nice turbos for very cheap....all they need is a GOOD cleaning and a rebuild and they're good as new. I've seen a Turbonetics T3/T4 hybrid unit killed in under 3000 miles because of oil coking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 so do you think I have damaged the turbo seals. Car has not run but 4-10 seconds at a time. Still not running as posted above think the AFM is shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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