s14kouki10 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I am in the process of painting the floorboards on my z. Ive been successful in removing all the surface rust with a wire wheel. There are some pitted spots in the metal after removing the rust. -Should i do something about the pitted areas or just clean up real good and paint? -Would you guys recommend using por15 on clean raw metal? -Also anyone care to point me to a good seam sealer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I'd use phosporic acid to kill off any rust left in the pitted areas, then either paint or POR 15 it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 If you use POR-15 you really don't need to worry about the pitted areas, POR stands for Paint Over Rust. Just get the loose rust off as best you can. It does not stick well to paint so get that off or at least scuff the hell out of it. Using thier metal prep works great but I've also used a good paint prep degreaser. Make sure the surface is very dry before using POR-15 or it will fisheye. I also had good results with heating the metal with a heat gun to be sure no moisture or oils are left on the metal. Let it sit for a couple days before putting any sound deadener over it. I have used polyurethans caulk from Home Depot. This stuff is geat, never get really gard and its paintable. It does take a couple day to setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 By the way, POR 15 metal prep is just phosphoric acid with blue dye and a higher price tag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14kouki10 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 I'd use phosporic acid to kill off any rust left in the pitted areas, then either paint or POR 15 it. right thats what i was worried about, there is rust thats hard to get in the little pits? If you use POR-15 you really don't need to worry about the pitted areas, POR stands for Paint Over Rust. Just get the loose rust off as best you can. It does not stick well to paint so get that off or at least scuff the hell out of it. Using thier metal prep works great but I've also used a good paint prep degreaser. Make sure the surface is very dry before using POR-15 or it will fisheye. I also had good results with heating the metal with a heat gun to be sure no moisture or oils are left on the metal. Let it sit for a couple days before putting any sound deadener over it. I have used polyurethans caulk from Home Depot. This stuff is geat, never get really gard and its paintable. It does take a couple day to setup. and being that it is paint over rust just made me think it wont bond well to clean raw metal or paint like you mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 It's a pain, but the only way to completely get it all (other than media blasting) is to soak it in phosphoric acid, wire wheel the hell out of it, and repeat as many times as required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 (edited) right thats what i was worried about, there is rust thats hard to get in the little pits? and being that it is paint over rust just made me think it wont bond well to clean raw metal or paint like you mentioned. Exactly. I did that to my Z and to my '70 AMX too. Messy stuff but it work great. Advice.... buy the small cans, read the instructions and don't get any on you! Edited March 1, 2013 by deja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Depends on the pitting (do you have a picture?), but would cutting it out and patching it be out of the question? The stock floors aren't too thick and if there's visible pitting, enough to concern you it means there really isn't very much material at the bottom of the pit. I'd hate to see a hole when a rock bounces up and hits the thin part For seam sealer I went to NAPA and grabbed the black generic stuff. They have 2k sealers which are gaurenteed not to shrink, absorbs paint etc, but just like paint that are pretty pricey. At 3-5$ a tube the generic stuff has worked great for me, two tubes for the whole car and no leaks, shrinkage, or paint chips to speak of. I do advise clean disposable gloves and a grout shaper tool to make nice smooth seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Yep. Blast it. It's the only way to really be sure you got the rust inside the pits. But POR15 will encapsulate that pretty easy, even if you did miss something. Another product I'd recommend. Hammerite. It has glass in it, so it becomes extremely hard when it cures completely. This is what I used on my floors, it looks exactly the same way it did when I painted it a year ago. Zero change. Absolutely on par with POR15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 +1 for hammerite. Less prep, and waaayyy cheaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14kouki10 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Depends on the pitting (do you have a picture?), but would cutting it out and patching it be out of the question? The stock floors aren't too thick and if there's visible pitting, enough to concern you it means there really isn't very much material at the bottom of the pit. I'd hate to see a hole when a rock bounces up and hits the thin part For seam sealer I went to NAPA and grabbed the black generic stuff. They have 2k sealers which are gaurenteed not to shrink, absorbs paint etc, but just like paint that are pretty pricey. At 3-5$ a tube the generic stuff has worked great for me, two tubes for the whole car and no leaks, shrinkage, or paint chips to speak of. I do advise clean disposable gloves and a grout shaper tool to make nice smooth seals. Pitting is minimal, just wasnt to leave it alone or fix it because metal is strong. And Ill check that sealer out, thanks. Yep. Blast it. It's the only way to really be sure you got the rust inside the pits. But POR15 will encapsulate that pretty easy, even if you did miss something. Another product I'd recommend. Hammerite. It has glass in it, so it becomes extremely hard when it cures completely. This is what I used on my floors, it looks exactly the same way it did when I painted it a year ago. Zero change. Absolutely on par with POR15. Ill see if i can get ahold of a blaster. I guess my main concern was the por15 adhering to the clean raw metal that doesnt have rust. Ive seen a couple of people say it doesnt last, maybe they didnt prep right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I haven't read anything above me but I will tell you what I did after I welded in my new floors. POR15 with no prep lol seriously though. Brushed off any loose dirt and just brushed onto to straight bare metal. As for the driver side which is the same situation as you. I simply cleaned off the grease, let it dry, Prep & Ready (it's a POR15 branded solvent), let that dry, brushed off any loose dust and then brushed POR15 literally right over the rust with no fucks given lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 There seems to be a bit of confusion here! POR 15 Prep and Ready is phosphoric acid. POR 15 Marine Clean is industrial de-greaser. They are two completely different products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miky360 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 When I mentioned Prep & Ready, I put POR in the brackets just to let him know im not being generic and just saying to prep and ready it but actually meant I used the POR15 brand LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.