RebekahsZ Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Nigel-you and I seem to have a similar issue. Don't remember if I have two or three tubes of modifier. My banging is better and I now feel more of the "chatter" that I had heard rumor of. In fact, last day at the strip there were no bangs, just chatter. I finally decided to try to ignore it and to get on with any if the other issues the car has. This diff required no shims to achieve 45# wet break away. The first one i did, i shimmed to 65# break away. They both have that parking lot BANG! This car has been super reliable but the drag racing with a T56 is taking its toll. I can't seem to keep my gland nuts tight, and I have to drop the whole suspension and remove the springs to tighten them. I so hate going over the same ground over and over. But, I think the only option is to quit racing and sell the car. Getting closer but not there yet. I have the strength for at least one more year of this fickle love affair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 I can't seem to keep my gland nuts tight, and I have to drop the whole suspension and remove the springs to tighten them. Don't the bump stops bounce off of the top of gland nuts under full compression? Could be a clue re your suspension bouncing off the line when racing. Probably related, get off the bump stops and the gland nuts might stay tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Hmmm. Interesting thought. I'll put some paint on them and see if it gets scuffed. Next trip to strip (hoping this Fri) I'm gonna loosen my droop limiters too. Will start with the back ones. That might be a factor too. You got me thinking.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 I can't seem to keep my gland nuts tight, and I have to drop the whole suspension and remove the springs to tighten them. I so hate going over the same ground over and over. You can't tighten the nuts with the springs on? I've done it before with a big pair of channel lock pliers. You have to be REALLY careful, but it can be done. Tried loctite on the gland nuts? Are the threads bottoming? With the nuts RFT you want a couple threads showing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 I've tightened the shnit out of them with a BMF pipe wrench and they still loosened after a couple trips to the strip. I have done the channel lock thing and I can get another half turn on them if I disassemble and use the pipe wrench. Those darn things are like Harry Houdini. Haven't used locktite but I sure will this time. Will also throw a couple washers in the tubes as you suggest to make sure I'm not bottoming the threads-as it is close. I cut my spacers with the intent of having good thread engagement. I think it must just be V8 and VHT vs 40 year-old unibody, etc. I know there are much more powerful cars on the forum-maybe it is the repititions (or the mechanic). JMortensen, your axles are still hanging strong. One driveshaft tube and two driveshaft yokes in the grave but your axles are going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Nigel, The diff is working correctly, based on its design. The mods that most people make to the R200 CLSD (adding clutches) in creases it's lock percent at the expense of low speed noise. That's 100% normal on the R180 and R200 Nissan CLSDs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) Fords as well. I had chirps bangs and all sorts of commotion from my E250 LSD. It all stopped within 30,000 miles... Of course, by then it effectively was a one-legged open diffy as I'd worn the clutches out from the combination of low factory preload, high loading near MAWR, and a tendency to use judicious (some may say "excessive") throttle application on corner exits... High preload keeps it cooler through less slippage. As John says, the higher breakaway makes noise. All you're doing adding more and more friction modifier is making the clutches slip easier...kinda defeating the purpose of shimming it o higher breakaway in the first place. I gave a guy an open differential after he bought a hot 71 with triples, headers, cam, etc...just HATED the noise from the differential. I explained what it was...fully... He was happier with the open diffy I gave him as an even swap. What ratio is in your differential, chances are I got one which will be WHISPER QUIET in operation just like an open stocker (which is what it is...) even swap, same as with the other guy! Edited August 12, 2013 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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