madkaw Posted July 1, 2014 Author Share Posted July 1, 2014 Thanks Sam. After a while I started thinking to myself I should have swapped coils - duh- to see if it followed , like you said. I could of and should have been yanking on the harness while it's running to see if that gives any results - you know- the basic mechanic stuff. Sometimes we dig to deep for the shallow stuff. 4 of these coils are used. I also remember that the connectors were a bit funky in that there was an additional plastic piece that went on basically between the connector and coil. What if I didn't have that installed? Don't really know what it does. I guess I have grounds to check too! Basics , basics, basics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Swapping around coils did help define my issue. I am weighing too much on what I am seeing with the timing light. I can't explain why the timing light flickers differently on some coils, but it does. Regardless of what I am seeing with the light, I know for a fact that 4&5 plugs look fouled. Since it is unlikely a carb issue spanning across two different carbs I am beginning to think I have a breach in my HG. These symptoms are similiar to what happened to me in 2011 when i blew a HG then. The car ran alright, but not not 100% . My car didn't overheat or any real symptoms back in 2011, but it failed a coolant pressure test, and that's what I'll be doing when I get home. Maybe got too aggressive with my timing? I probably shouldn't speculate until I know for sure what's up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) Nothing conclusive with the coolant pressure test. 4,5,6 show 180-190 psi on a compression test Next step is mounting back a dizzy and wires to eliminate electrical. Now I am kicking myself for selling my 12-80 dizzy, but I have a spare that a buddy and I share for this purpose. Should take an hour to wire it back up. Edited July 7, 2014 by madkaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 I should also add I checked grounds and everything seemed tight. Continuity between coil ground wires and block. 12v's at all the coils. Tomorrow I will will hook up switch to my datalogger and hopefully get that done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 Need a little help here. So Megalog viewer is a separate program that you purchase to view something like a tooth log? I need to get a larger SD card for datalogging, but when i do capture a datalog will I be able to see this with just TS? Can you see a tooth logger real time with MLV? Or I can post up a datalog and you guys that have MLV can see my tooth log? I'm starting to realize that I really need to do more studying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Correct, MegaLogViewer is a separate program. It is shareware, so you can try before you buy. TunerStudio is not able to play back data logs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 Can tuner studio pull up or see a tooth logger with the diagnostics tab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I don't believe TS can do anything with logs aside create them as Matt mentioned. MLV is mostly free, if you want to use the VE Analyzer and other advanced features such as scatter plots, you'll want to buy it. I think the longer it's installed, the more it nags you to register, but it's a small annoyance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Okay-I was trying to save some datalog to my laptop and look at that with MLV, but it wasn't happening. I need to retry some stuff I guess. The megamanual does show a diagnostics button on the tuner studio that can look at a tooth log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Okay, saw my tooth log live with car running. So I have to use MLV to show it to you guys? So do I register to use the MLV to try it out before buying. I have no issues paying for it , but don't want to confuse myself anymore then I have already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 So I counted the lines on the tooth logger inbetween the missing tooth lines and I only count 34. This is a 36-1 set up so I should count 35 inbetween the lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 TunerStudio creates your log files either by going to Datalogging -> start logging or under the Diagnostic tab where you can turn on the tooth logger and log to file. To view the files that TS creates, you would need a MLV. So technically you can create all the logs you want with TS and never use MLV, but that's a bit silly, since you will want to review your own logs at some point. It's free to try, so download it and install it. If you decide to buy it, you can just enter the serial number in to activate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 You should have 35 teeth, with the 35th being the long tooth with a 36-1. You would also be getting sync loss notices in TS, if it wasn't reading all the teeth. I'm not sure how obvious that is, because I haven't really seen it myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradyzq Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Fouled plugs can cause a timing light strobe to be erratic. BTDT many times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 No sync loss and yes 35 is the long tooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Car still no worky! Been on the MS forums and striking out so far. Still fouling plugs - mostly 4,5,6 Checked wiring, swapped around coils , changed plugs. Almost ready to pop on my dizzy- but have to repair it first.ARGH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 Wow, over a year since I posted here. Life and a shitty rebuild got in the way. After much troubleshooting I eliminated the MS as any part of my issue and dug into the engine mechanicals. A year later, the engine is back together and it fired up fine with the MS . Without going thru all the drama, I had valve issues from best I can tell, and it caused erratic behavior. When I tore things down I was smart enough to take pics of the flywheel location with respect to #1 and my CAS, so when I put things back together all the stars were aligned and timing was correct. The only adjustment was to the CAS. I had no spark at first, but turning in the CAS a little closer to the flywheel brought it back to life. All was good until F.O.D.(foreign object damage for you non-military types) took out my CAS sensor. Another long story, but I learned that my 25$ sensor will take a beating and keep ticking. The mount( JB welded in place) is what actually gave out and caused running issues. Even with a loose CAS mount, the engine ran good except over 4k. At 4k ,it felt like a hard rev limiter was kicking in and the engine would fall flat on it's face. So a lesson learned about CAS; there are levels of failure with the sensor. Always thought they either worked or didn't, but there can be an in between. So realizing that my JB job was not bullet proof( but pretty damn close), I decided to weld the mount in place. The issue before was that the sensor is supplied with very thin SS locking nuts. No luck trying to weld them. The 12mmX1mm nut is not at Lowe's either, but Fastenal actually could get the proper steel nut for me. So these nuts had some BEEF to them so I could weld this puppy in place and never worry about the mount again. Killing some time waiting on my trans to get reworked(another drama), I have been working on coming up with a cam sensor so I can run sequential. Not a big priority, but thought it would be a refinement for down the road. I had noticed looking at cam sensor set-ups on various engines that the jeep 4.0 L6 had the same timing cover/dizzy front mount. When I started looking into them deeper i thought i might be able to adapt. Ebay to the rescue! Complete new sensor assembly top to bottom was 24$ shipped, can't go wrong. After getting the assembly I started to dismantle the driveshaft and gear. Wouldn't you know the main body slips PERFECTLY into an original dizzy pedestal. So the hard part will be to adapt the drive mechanism from the Datsun oil driveshaft to the Jeep shaft. The shaft on the Jepp sensor is digger diameter, so there will be some adapting, but that can be made up with the coupler bushing on a Datsun dizzy coupler. I was able to machine out the original bushing to fit the bigger jeep shaft. The tricky part is to cut the jeep shaft to match the "tang" on the datsun shaft. I was able to rough something out that worked, but i need to perfect it better. In the end, I think this will work nicely and be a cheap sensor set-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 So my engine runs perfect with the old dizzy and wires. What I did discover when swapping over and restarting the engine was that my battery was shot. 5 years old and killed many times. Makes me wonder how much of an issue that was causing with my MS3X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 So got the trans back but engine wouldn't go past 4300. It was like hard ignition Rev limiter. Anyhow, just for others that might run into this , it turned out to be my VR circuit inside my MS. There was pots that are supposed to be adjusted a certain amount of turns . There was a place to measure voltage to make sure the pots were adjusted properly and mine was off by 1v. This is a pull up voltage circuit so that 1v didn't allow my CAS to work properly. FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Got my tach working FINALLY. I didn't try real hard at first, but I had a MSD 8920 and wasn't getting it to work . I chased wires by pulling the tach to make sure I had correct ones- still didn't work. My dumb ass didn't know that you had to turn on the tach output on tuner studio. Now tach works. Time to head to the dyno! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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