EF Ian Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 I need to fit extended wheel studs to make sure my new brake and wheel setup on the front is safe. I'd like M12X1.5 and prefarably ARP so they are the same as the rears will be. But I've no idea which ones to get or where to get them. Can anyone help me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Camaro/RX7 studs work, they have the right size knurl and are 12x1.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 Thats perfect info, thanks, which year/model of RX-7? or is it all of them?Hopefully APR make studs for the RX-7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 Having a look there it seems its the FC I need, although FD seem to be the same also.Do they definitly work? As its gives me a knurl diameter or 0.509 which is 12.92mm I was told that the Datsun Knurl is 13mm, is this close enouth to work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 If you are using them and they worked then thats good enouth for me, did you spot weld it in place or is it just in there by the knurl alone? Also, which hubs are you using early or late? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 Going to go for these and hope they do the job: http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=6509 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Just held in with the knurl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 We also use the ARP 100-7708 studs with good results. The knurl is a press fit in the hub and holds just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 Thanks for your help guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Early S13 fits aswell. Cheap and good selection of different lengths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 Early S13 fits aswell. Cheap and good selection of different lengths. Yeah, I found those ones but only in 12x1.25 thread which I didn't want as I wanted mine to match the 12x1.5 thread of the ones in my stub axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 These are a bit of a tight fit but worked great for me! http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-7708/10002/-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ApexedZ Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 What do you have to do to install these things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I just recently did the extended stud thing. It was way easier than I expected. I know lots of guys hammer them out and use a nut to pull them into place. You gotta pull the front hubs and separate the rotor-that is a pretty easy job that I can give tips for if you've never done it. The rear stubs I had already pulled for a bearing replacement. That job is aweful the first time but after the fifth or sixth time it is a breeze. With the hubs and stubs in my hand, I then pressed out the old studs and pressed in the new ones with a Harbor Frieght press(their cheapest hydraulic press). You can do the fronts in a day-plan a weekend for the rears. If you have done a disc brake rear conversion, you may be able to just smack out the old studs with a hammer, but the backing plate may be in the way if you still have drums. Maybe a strategically placed hole could be drilled in the backing plate?? Anyway, as a newby, I thought that the splines on the studs had to fit into corresponding splines in the hub/stud. Not so! The hub and stub are just drilled without splines and the splines in the studs just kind of cut in a little bit when you press them in. So the spline count doesnt matter-just the diameter of the splined portion. Hope that gives you the confidence to jump right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 We removed and installed the studs with a hammer (all hubs off the car). We drilled 2 holes in a 4x4 to support the rear hub and allow the installed studs to protrude down into and on the outside of the 4x4 without hitting the ground. The front hub has the nose for the bearings facing out so you need 2 4x4s side by side with the hub between sitting on the edges of the flange. A hydraulic press is better but we did not have one. Regardless of how you push in the studs do what you can to keep the studs aligned with the center axis. A few of ours went slightly off axis and it makes the threads bind a bit while running the lug nuts down because we use the long shank mag style nuts. With taper seat nuts that won't be a problem but you still want to get the studs on axis the best you can. If you still have drum brakes it will bind on the holes in the brake drum as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 I agree. My studs were slightly misaligned at first, but running the tapered nuts down tight against a stock steel rim and torquing them down aligned everything fine. And I'm finding out that there is no such thing as too long (that should garner some giggles). I'm about to have to use spacers to get my brake kit to clear, and suddenly my extended studs don't seem so long. Get them as long as you can find them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harlest Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 To get my ARP studs (100-7708) in my 78 Datsun z I used an impact and some open end lug nuts and sucked them right in. Just be careful and watch the back of the stud closely as it goes in and stop the impact because you don't want to damage the threads. It only took seconds to install them that way. This is after I removed the hubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) Also, check Dorman products for longer studs. Installation: Front: Put hub in vise. Knock out the stud with a hammer. Insert stud in hole and pull it through using an open lug nut and washers to take up the slack as the stud pulls through the hub. I used an impact wrench, but a ratchet would work as well. Rear: There is just enough room to replace stock studs with stock drum brakes with the rear hubs on the car. Knock out the stud with a hammer and pull the new stud through using a lug nut. You might be able to get a longer stud in the same way. No problem at all If you have disk brakes. From my notes: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/52907-wheel-studsreplacements/?&p=473102&hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bstuds&fromsearch=1 Edited August 12, 2013 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 You might be able to get a longer stud in the same way. No problem at all If you have disk brakes. I don't think there is room. Racers drill a hole in the backing plate and feed it in from the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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