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What have you done to get the most out of your N/A 280ZX without serious engine mods?


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I don't have one on mine, and unless you're tracking it...it's questionable it's benefits. A smaller diameter steel tubing shaft may have lower MOI, and therefore accelerate faster than and aluminum unit of larger diameter.

 

I dynoed in SoCal, and ran the 1/4 mile first on my 1st gen G-Tech (which was close to my actual dyno run results) and then made a series of track passes in SanAntonio Texas where the track has a certified scale so I got an actual as-run track weight to do the hp calculations from the 1/4 mile times and trap speeds.

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  • 9 months later...

Because you don't know how to search.

 

+ that!      A guy who is "always here" need to get under the hood and get dirty ( O no) to get results. Or there is the dream on way of doing it, where one just gets more and more proven ideas, then bashes them with " I read" ......

Thanks to all the contributors who give proven and useful ways to remedy an issue.

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  • 1 month later...

She runs pretty good, but still stock. Tweaked/tuned everything I could to squeeze every last bit of power out of the engine. Looking into putting a Turbo intake manifold on the car, shave the mount for the AACV, and mill/tap the plenum for the cold start valve. 6% more air than N/A manifold.

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Well if Paul says so then it must be; although, I have never seen that kind of bump from swapping over to one.  Not sure why one would go through the trouble of swapping and modifying a stock intake manifold, yet not modify it to make power.  There is an awful lot of flow to be had inside those stock runners and plenum.

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Well if Paul says so then it must be; although, I have never seen that kind of bump from swapping over to one.  Not sure why one would go through the trouble of swapping and modifying a stock intake manifold, yet not modify it to make power.  There is an awful lot of flow to be had inside those stock runners and plenum.

I'd rather swap to a slightly free-er flowing manifold than spend nearly $500 for someone to port my only manifold, only mildly (1-1.5mm per runner). I'm not looking for huge gains, but just enough to get my car running low 14's. I am very limited with the stock EFI upon how much i can port. The problem is, i have no choice but to stick with the stock EMS in order to stay street legal (Cali Smog laws).

Edited by Connor280ZX
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Optimal port diameter is 35mm and it will flow 200+ CFM.

If you make a hole bigger than 35mm, you screwed up if you're using stock-sized valves!

The "restriction" in the stock manifold comes from it's bends, shorten it and a stub stack at 35mm will flow enough to surprise you.

 

Bigger is not necessarily better.

Edited by Tony D
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  • 1 month later...

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