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Dry Sumpin' it... What worked for you?


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Some progress with my drysump system... We had to flip the sump on the ARE pan to clear the header on the passenger side...

 

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Fortunately the windage tray in the bottom of the pan will aid in controlling the drain drag from the crank...

 

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And I went ahead and ripped appart the BulterBuilt drysump tank and cleaned it out...

 

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And I went ahead and made up some lines and mounted the oil pan...

 

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  • 1 year later...

FYI, After my motor had to be pulled, and rebuilt with new block, and internals, I wanted to have head drains installed in the heads to aid in reducing the volume of trapped oil in the heads.  Jamie Taylor installed head drains in the L92s for me.  Now I have issues again with lines and those headers.  So.... I inquired about potentially tapping into the drysump system.  The short answer there from TWO industry leaders was NO.  You can't tap into the system, because it will interfere in the balance of the pressure in the system.  I wanted to put this in this thread so others doing research later may save themselves some headache down the road.

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I couldn't find ANY info on Vacuum springs in the scavenge hoses or where anyone has said "You must instal these or else."   I also have found exactly one source for the springs, Pegasus...

 

Cary, You're a wealth of knowledge and I value your experience.  Please elaborate on this...

 

Mike

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Based on the reading, and the three phone calls completed this week, I'm not concerned at this point with the hoses I chose causing issues on the scavenge side.  I am running three scavenge stages, and from what I was told by John Barilka (Hendrick) and Steve Wilson (Childres) I shouldn't have issues.  Motor won't spin north of 6500 and the vacuum is going to be right around 7-8.  Shouldn't be an issue.  Also, the hose manufacturer said there should be no issues at all with that hose collapsing. 

 

Pics of the head drains should be on my project page.

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

All manufacturers of hose will have limits for their products.  These will lbe temperature limits, working pressure, burst pressure, bend radii, and vacuum for each hose family.  Some of the newer high tech hoses can handle vacuum fine (Starlite, BMRS, etc.).  But best to check your master catalog to know.  If you need to make a sharp turn from the pump to the pan is another issue.  So if either of these are the case then you'll need what's called AN hose inner support springs.  You can find these at Jegs, speedway, summit, etc.  Each manufacturer will have a special version for their hose if needed.

 

The problem is that the pump generates considerable suction and when the oil heats up the hose it gets very pliable.  These springs will keep it from momentarily pinching off.  If that happens you loose oil supply and bad things happen.  It's not as big an issue on the scavenge side but you still don't want a hose getting pulled shut.  It all comes down to the pump and the hose rating.  It's not whether or not the hose is any good.  General rule of thumb is on any of the new high tech hose solutions the non-metal braided hoses will not have enough vacuum resistance to be used in a dry sump system.

 

I'm using BMRS progold plumbing for my dry sump and section 1.2 of their master catalog lists AN 12 hose as being capable of withstanding 28 inches of mercury of vacuum at a minimum bend radius of 2.5 inches between -57 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  At diameters larger than AN 16 these ratings drop quite a bit.

 

Hope that helps,

Cary

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