RebekahsZ Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 I just finished the AZC 4-piston brake conversion front and back and now it is time to move to the second winter task: Konis. I bought a used set of struts about 15 years ago from an ITS racer who was getting out of racing. I then assembled it with tokicos and ran it for 10-15 years. Before 2 years were up, one front strut blew, spewed oil on the floor and lost all rebound control. I have run it that way ever since, planning to replace it with another tokico when that project rose to the top. Well, it rose to the top and behold, no tokicos available! So, I bought a set of single adjustable Konis from johnc and now I'm trying to get the kit together. So, I pulled my tokicos from the back (I had a head start since I just finished a brake conversion and have the axles pulled for the AZC brake conversion). I started on the back. Axles are removed, no sway bar, coilover kit already done. I removed the brake caliper and let it dangle by its hose. If you don't remove the axles and the brake caliper, you can't drop the control arm low enough to get the strut to swing out. Removed the brake rotor. Lowered the bottom spring perch all the way and detached the upper seat/camber plate from the strut tower. Before doing that, I marked how I want to enlarge the center hole (I have stock towers and DP bolt-in camber plates) so that I can get the shock adjuster knob on at any camber setting. Basically I will elongate the center hole a bunch. Also marked where I want to trim some away from the inner fender to increase access into the strut tower from below and make changing camber settings easier. Lowering the control arm with a jack, I lowered all the way to the floor and swung the strut out of the fender. Used an air wrench to remove the strut rod nut, removed the camber plate/upper seat, the spring and the bump stop. Used a 2' pipe wrench to remove the stock gland nut and pulled out the tokico shock. Removed the spherical bearing sleeve that converts the camber plate to the tokico and inserted the sleeve that came with the koni. With the tokico, I had inserted the sleeve from the bottom and I had trouble with the nut binding on the camber plate, so this time I inserted the sleeve from the top down in order to move the big nut up a bit and allow a little more "wobble" about the spherical bearing. Have to buy a new 23mm deep socket in order to tighten the strut rod nut. Inserted the koni into the strut and DAMN! The shock binds at the welded junction of the sectioned strut tube. I had to use a rat-tail file to remove some rough spots in this area when I did the tokicos, so I kind of expected this. But, I was hoping against hope that I might get away with the coming pain of getting the shock to fit. So, I'm stuck until I find a good way to get past this obstacle. Hoping there is a super coarse hone that I can buy from Mcmaster-car with a reach of about 8-10 inches that will let me hone out the inside of the strut tubes-this will probably be a problem with every corner.... Anybody who has a suggestion, sound off-time for me to start searching on a solution to this obstacle. Pics when I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 I am right behind you friend. This will be my next job. My plan was to get some of those Flap Wheels with the 1/4" shank and make a way to extend those. Either weld on a rod or somehow extend those. Then get into those tubes and start working on the ID to make it friendier. Alternatively a ball hone usually has a long shank on it. But I think with an extended flap wheel and a little patience you can make a nice clean fit. Please document which parts you are using. You may have to make a spacer for the bottom? And work the gland nuts or replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socorob Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 They make several different styles of drill bit extensions that may work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 (edited) How about a 14" half-round file? http://www.amazonsupply.com/simonds-american-pattern-half-round-coating/dp/B006P2YIPU/ref=sr_1_3?sr=1-3&qid=1384744711 Edited November 18, 2013 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Die grinder with a long bit. Welds are hard and flap wheels arent going to take much off. They are ok once you are very close but if you can still see the weld you need a die grinder with a metal bit IME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 60 grit 1.5" drum sander on an extension rod. You'll need about 3 per strut tube and set aside a couple hours. And pray that the strut is welded straight otherwise you'll never get the Konis in. You can also sand the powder coating off the Koni shock and check the weld at the bottom of the shock. Sometimes there's a little extra where the weld finishes that hangs up the install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 Found extension and 1-1/2" drum sanding kit at lowes across lunch. Having trouble finding flap wheels but will look at fastenal tomorrow. There is scratched paint on the shock at the bottom weld as you indicate - will be sure to dress that. Johnc-am I likely to get any guff when I send in my konis for rebuild in a few years and all the paint has been removed? I'm considering that a last resort. I also worry about them rusting in, even if I grease the pee out of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Found extension and 1-1/2" drum sanding kit at lowes across lunch. Having trouble finding flap wheels but will look at fastenal tomorrow. There is scratched paint on the shock at the bottom weld as you indicate - will be sure to dress that. Johnc-am I likely to get any guff when I send in my konis for rebuild in a few years and all the paint has been removed? I'm considering that a last resort. I also worry about them rusting in, even if I grease the pee out of them. Here ya go, great resource for abrasives, they have flap wheels in a few sizes http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/servlet/the-Flap-Wheels/Categories Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 (edited) I've only gotten a few hours to work with the holiday, but I have one corner done. After cleaning out the strut tubes really well, it looks like there is misalignment of the upper section above the weld and the lower section below the weld. Perhaps the guy who I bought my coilovers from used a shock smaller than a koni to line them up for welding. Using the sanding drum with an extension (thanks for all the recommendations above) that I bought from Lowes, and my drill motor, I concentrated on the junction of the strut, especially the side that seemed to be pushed in. Working for a couple of hours, the koni slipped in a little, then grind more, then the strut goes a little deeper, grind more, then finally it went all the way in. To get a stuck strut out, I put a nut and washer on the strut rod and then put an open end wrench under it and "tap" with a dead blow hammer until it started moving. I reused the tubular spacer that I made for my tokicos, plus a handful of flat washers to fine-tune the spacing and it was done! Now to do the same thing 3 more times.... Edited November 29, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 Second rear shock installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.