Zmanj87 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) So I want to replace the Idler pulley bearing. I got the pulley up and the bearing punched out and now I have a problem.. I'm not sure if I got the right bearing or I just punched out the race as well. The bearing that was in the pulley is a KBC 6203D and the once I'm replacing it with is BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0513860 {0781301} 15mm X 35mm X 11mm. So did I get the wrong bearing? Heres the pictures of it Backside Frontside Edited March 16, 2014 by Zmanj87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 well its the damm wrong size anyways.... the old one is a 17x40x12mm... Do I need this pulley on in order to drive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Also the pulley I removed is the one you can adjust to remove the belt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Do I need this pulley on in order to drive? Only if you can't stand the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Alright perfect it's not to bad out..I guess I'm just going to take it to a Bearing Supply house and see if they can help me out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Thanks for the reply Zed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the reply Zed You know it's the idler for the AC compressor belt, right? Edited March 16, 2014 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) the one you have on the right looks like a 6203 bearing. The smaller center hole and shoulder is an adapter bushing to use it in the application.... your 'frontside' and 'backside photos looked identical to me...as if you posted the same photo twice. Is this the case? Your bearing on the right shows a standard 6203 race, the bearing on the left simply has an insert in it. Remove the insert and put it in the bearing on the right, and you're good to go. Actually 6203 is the standard bearing on a lot of 5HP Three-Phase Compressor Motors...New ones are sealed, old ones are unshielded with grease zerks. Lots of times you buy a shielded one, and they make needle adapters for grease guns to pierce the shield at the edge and re-grease the bearing when it's about 20,000 hours in service. That usually helps them last the 50K B-Life Plus. You can do that on a noisy one if you have the needle adapter, and you will be amazed how much longer the bearing will last before giving up the ghost. As long as you get lube in there before the race or balls start spalling, they can go a loooooong time after that rejuvenation! Bearings rarely have manufacturer-specific applications. But they do have adapters that are shrunk or press-fit into them for an application. That's why OEM's charge what they do... betting nobody will be smart enough to take it apart and push the adapter out, and replace with a standard bearing and reassemble it. My bet is, remove that adapter in the center and you will see a larger inner hole for the bearing... And a good bearing number. Hard to tell from these photos, though. Checking my bearing reference guide a 6203D (Sealed) Ball Bearing is 17x40x12, so likely that is NOT what you got from Beck Arnley if those dimensions don't jibe. These are availabe under $7 from Motion Industries or any other Bearing Supply House (or, twice that on eBay by predators...) You want a sealed bearing (permanent pre-greased)... it should last the same 275,000 miles as the first one did! I usually stick with SKF, Naichi, German FAG, or Timken and since you're in a bearing house you can specify better than C3 tolerance and get really good bearings. Sadly, I've not seen Chinese Stuff that holds up as well as traditional manufacturers of Bearings in Japan, Europe and the USA. The races and cages are usually pretty rough around the edges...and in some cases they don't seem to 'spin' as smoothly as those manufactured elsewhere. Will probably work, but it bugs me.... I see predators at work, and this is what a 6302D should look like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KBC-6203D-Sealed-Ball-Bearing-17x40x12mm-/300732877802 Oh hell, Amazon.com (seems KBC is popular, cos it's cheap!): http://www.amazon.com/Kbc-6203D-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00DBOXWRK Edited March 16, 2014 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 To add to Tony D's post, if you go to an auto parts store with the old bearing or just say 6203 they'll probably walk right to the back, grab one off the shelf and send you on your way. That's what I did, and that's what they did. Apparently it's a very common automotive bearing, even today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8pipez Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I got mine at a bearing supply place as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 You know it's the idler for the AC compressor belt, right? Ya it's the pulley that you can adjust to remove the belt...I just wanted to be 100 percent sure it was still drivable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanj87 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 the one you have on the right looks like a 6203 bearing. The smaller center hole and shoulder is an adapter bushing to use it in the application.... your 'frontside' and 'backside photos looked identical to me...as if you posted the same photo twice. Is this the case? Your bearing on the right shows a standard 6203 race, the bearing on the left simply has an insert in it. Remove the insert and put it in the bearing on the right, and you're good to go. Actually 6203 is the standard bearing on a lot of 5HP Three-Phase Compressor Motors...New ones are sealed, old ones are unshielded with grease zerks. Lots of times you buy a shielded one, and they make needle adapters for grease guns to pierce the shield at the edge and re-grease the bearing when it's about 20,000 hours in service. That usually helps them last the 50K B-Life Plus. You can do that on a noisy one if you have the needle adapter, and you will be amazed how much longer the bearing will last before giving up the ghost. As long as you get lube in there before the race or balls start spalling, they can go a loooooong time after that rejuvenation! Bearings rarely have manufacturer-specific applications. But they do have adapters that are shrunk or press-fit into them for an application. That's why OEM's charge what they do... betting nobody will be smart enough to take it apart and push the adapter out, and replace with a standard bearing and reassemble it. My bet is, remove that adapter in the center and you will see a larger inner hole for the bearing... And a good bearing number. Hard to tell from these photos, though. Checking my bearing reference guide a 6203D (Sealed) Ball Bearing is 17x40x12, so likely that is NOT what you got from Beck Arnley if those dimensions don't jibe. These are availabe under $7 from Motion Industries or any other Bearing Supply House (or, twice that on eBay by predators...) You want a sealed bearing (permanent pre-greased)... it should last the same 275,000 miles as the first one did! I usually stick with SKF, Naichi, German FAG, or Timken and since you're in a bearing house you can specify better than C3 tolerance and get really good bearings. Sadly, I've not seen Chinese Stuff that holds up as well as traditional manufacturers of Bearings in Japan, Europe and the USA. The races and cages are usually pretty rough around the edges...and in some cases they don't seem to 'spin' as smoothly as those manufactured elsewhere. Will probably work, but it bugs me.... I see predators at work, and this is what a 6302D should look like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KBC-6203D-Sealed-Ball-Bearing-17x40x12mm-/300732877802 Oh hell, Amazon.com (seems KBC is popular, cos it's cheap!): http://www.amazon.com/Kbc-6203D-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00DBOXWRK Damm your right I re posted the same twice.. I just updated the front picture... So that bearing just pops out of the adapter? What's the best way to remove the bearing out of it.. Thanks for the reply too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 The best way is to press it out but most of us don't have access to that equipment. The way it mostly gets done is: find a pipe or large socket that's about the same size as the outer ring of the bearing. The side of the adapter shown in photo number 1 has to fit inside the pipe or socket in order for this to work. Place your bearing assy on the pipe or socket the same way it sits in photo number 2. Now you take a punch (drift, socket, pipe) - (anything that's same size or just smaller than the adapter) and tap it out of the bearing. Try not to deform the adapter. You're going to keep that smaller center piece and press it into the new bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 After you remove the adapter from that bearing, you can put it in the freezer and get it nice and cool, then it might just slide into the new bearing without having to be pressed. Though if you have a vice, it's probably easy to just press it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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