JMortensen Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 There was a BF suffix that meant Bubble Flare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Yes BF ment bubble flare. I was sent the wrong valve, and adapters. Was shipped a new valve , and converted to metric inverted flare fittings. Works like a charm now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Curtball are you using this unit? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/ This is the unit I have and I have leaking fittings on all 5 ports. I made up new lines and the end that go into the Master Cylinder don't leak along with the unions I made. I am puzzled why this thing is leaking! The inverted flare seems to be exactly what is needed but here I am. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 So you're using 3/16" line with 3/8-24 fittings on the prop valve end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 I'm using this http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-8419 with these fittings http://trackspeedengineering.com/product_info.php/products_id/144 I then I picked up a M10 brass union at Oreillys auto parts. Everything inverted flared, I used Teflon tape on the metric adapters, skipping the first couple threads, then putting a couple of layers on the rest of the threads. Only did this to the adapters since they don't seal by compression Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-E Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 Inverted flare fittings rely on compression to seal, if you're using teflon, something is wrong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtball Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 Like I said above. Teflon on the fittings you install in the prop valve to convert it to metric. These are just threaded fitting, you can use a little Teflon on red arp thread sealer. Everything else is sealed by compression with inverted flare fittings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 Like I said above. Teflon on the fittings you install in the prop valve to convert it to metric. These are just threaded fitting, you can use a little Teflon on red arp thread sealer. Everything else is sealed by compression with inverted flare fittings Yes. The fittings on most prop valves are 1/8 NPT. You can see the thread sealant already on the fittings from the manufacturer in this example: http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer+Brake/136/2000035/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710912856&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000514967&cadevice=c&gclid=CjgKEAjwtZucBRD77aiiq_v4xnASJABkAg8J5Ni2G_JgF3gDAXjLw2F2msL4q5l48KMTWhsLfv3cYfD_BwE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) The ones I bought I don't believe came with thread sealer already on it, but I did this same setup and I ran into issues with various lines leaking. NPT, flared lines/fittings, and myself don't seem to have a great relationship. I have this issue with air tools, for some reason I'll sometimes get it to seal fine on the first try, other times it takes a couple tries of me wrapping the threads with thread seal tape and trying again. Anyway I wrapped my fittings for my wildwood and didn't have any problem with it. I did run into issues with leaking on various lines with the double flare. I'm running very similar to what you mentioned though. A Wilwood proportioning to the rear and I did a union between the two lines that went into the old proportioning valve for the front. As was mentioned in this thread most of it was resolved by having to loosen/re-tighten my lines. I feel like a lot of times I'm running into seating issues, even with the original factory lines simply because of the way things get bent, moved, etc. You may need to just tighten everything up a bit more. Edited May 29, 2014 by DuoWing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New-to-240z Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 (edited) **Edit** This is a bubble fitting, instead of our inverted. So, please excuse the information. Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but it looks like Wilwood now sells a prop valve that will fit our stock fittings . . http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-12627 Has anyone tried this new prop valve? Edited March 13, 2015 by New-to-240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Yes, I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 The 240Z uses 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare brake fittings. The Wilwood ad says: "as the inlet and outlet ports are 10MM X 1 bubble flare seats and do not require tube nut adapters to directly install tubing with bubble flare 10MM x 1 nuts." Bubble flair brake fittings on a 240Z will leak. The Wilwood PV i used has 1/2" NPT ports. So I used 10mm x 1.0mm inverted flair to 1/2" NPT adaptors. They can be purchased at Fly'n Miata or from other suppliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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