Rebuilding Driveshaft for T5 with R200 in a Series 1 240Z

[SuperSamuri]

New owner of a 71"series 1 240Z.

Thanks for all the fantastic info on the forum.

 

I drove the car 600 miles after it had been in storage for 4 years and one  my most immediate issue is a horrible amount of driveline "whine" under load.

 

Car has a T5 BW 5 speed, R200 rear end and a L28 engine from an 83' ZX Turbo.

 

I have removed the driveshaft / propshaft which has some free play in the UJ's and was missing a bolt. (also some loose bolts in rear suspension).

 

The driveshaft shop i was referred to says he cannot rebuild my existing driveshaft, and would need to build a new custom one with spicer UJ's. I realize the stock UJ's are not recommended to be replaced but certainly a few people seem to have had the driveshaft / propshaft rebuilt using spicer UJ's. 

Does replacing the Uj's alter the driveshaft length ?

 

I am also a touch confused by some of the info I have read.

and without a stock 240Z to compare with.

 

The T5 is about 2 inches longer, which would have required modifying gearbox mounts, mine seems to use the factory mounting points. Supposedly the drivetrain is from a 28ZX Turbo.

 

Any help or advice appreciated, or a recommendation for a good driveshaft shop in the Los Angeles area.

 

Any help or advice appreciated

[madkaw]

Yes, you CANNOT rebuild these DS's. Be prepared to spend about 300$ for a new DS!!

The mount or something has to be moved slightly to accommodate the longer trans. Mine is hardly noticeable because I modified the mount and cross member.

Your pics are too big.    

[SuperSamuri]

Yes, you CANNOT rebuild these DS's. Be prepared to spend about 300$ for a new DS!!

The mount or something has to be moved slightly to accommodate the longer trans. Mine is hardly noticeable because I modified the mount and cross member.

Your pics are too big.    

 

Thanks for reply, I have one driveshaft shop offering a rebuild of my current D/S and another offering to build a custom one , however upon further examination whatever "whine" i am experiencing it is probably not the UJ's.

 

The T5 seems to be sitting uneven on its rubber transmission mount, I have a new transmission mount on order.

 

The PO had his own solution to breaking the lower diff mount.

 

In the mean time I am removing the R200 to have it inspected. I suspect that the side bearings are in need of replacement

[RebekahsZ]

R200s and R180s whine (and clunk). It's just a Z thing. Put more carpet in the hatch area and turn up the stereo. You will spent a fortune fixing something that probably isn't broken. Keep oil in it and drive the diff until it strands you. Treat it like a red headed stepchild. I have never seen the T5 driveshaft but I can't imagine that the u-joints wouldn't be replaceable. Look at the inside edge of the caps for c-clips.

[NewZed]

The PO created a solid diff mount when he welded your old one (Post 3).  You have a solid steel path from the gears to the cabin.  Get an RT style mount, with the Energy Suspension urethane and the whine noise will drop dramatically.  

 

You'll need another crossmember, even if you go back to stock.  They're not too hard to find.

[SuperSamuri]

R200s and R180s whine (and clunk). It's just a Z thing. Put more carpet in the hatch area and turn up the stereo. You will spent a fortune fixing something that probably isn't broken. Keep oil in it and drive the diff until it strands you. Treat it like a red headed stepchild. I have never seen the T5 driveshaft but I can't imagine that the u-joints wouldn't be replaceable. Look at the inside edge of the caps for c-clips.

 

Thank's for the info. The caps on the UJ's don't have clips (flat washer). 

I also could not imagine that they can not be rebuilt, One respected driveline shop tells me no problem (using the same size UJ's and other is equally adamant that this cannot be done, Haynes says not recommended but possible).

 

Unfortunately this Z has definitely been treated as a "red headed step child "by the PO ( supposedly with 300hp, welded lower diff mount from continually breaking the stock rubber one and a spare clutch).

 

Clunks from the suspension (bump stops shot), and general rattles don't usually concern me (once i know what the likely culprits are I can add them to a to do list).

However the rear end whine is very pronounced and sounds like straight cut gears !   Spare wheel well has a large speaker, (no spare wheel) and a wooden panel with additional speakers at the rear of the hatch, and even with the stereo up full, a straight exhaust with single rear muffler and the turbo noise the gear whine is extremely  loud. 

[SuperSamuri]

The PO created a solid diff mount when he welded your old one (Post 3).  You have a solid steel path from the gears to the cabin.  Get an RT style mount, with the Energy Suspension urethane and the whine noise will drop dramatically.  

 

You'll need another crossmember, even if you go back to stock.  They're not too hard to find.

Thank you, just the solution / upgrade required. Parts ordered.

[RebekahsZ]

If you are bothered by gear whine, don't put your ear on my roll bar.

[SuperSamuri]

Gear whine is not a problem, impending mechanical destruction of the rear end is another matter.

The straight cut gears in my Mini Cooper (first car) were louder than the engine and the induction noise from the weber behind the speedo. 

 

Changing the gearbox mounting bush, installing the RT rear diff mount, and checking all the bolts with the hope that will improve matters, before investigating further.

Or may just drop the whole rear end to install energy suspension bushes and remove the underseal (fun job) before putting it all back together.  

[Mike C]

The factory driveshaft has the u-joints swaged into place. If it could be disassembled (and with a big enough press, you could) it still wouldn't have grooves cut for the retainer clips.

 

In my own experience, drivelines don't make any noise. Vibration maybe, but not noise. Because of the IRS arrangement, u-joint wear isn't much of a deal with a Z. At least not with any of the 3 cars I have owned and the 100,000 plus miles I have driven a 240 so most likely the sound is from either transmission bearings or the R200 as mentioned.

 

I had my driveshaft made by a company in Californio, Wenco. The guy I dealt with was very knowledgeable. I did the Nissan u-joint in the front, but a 1310 in the rear and the Neapco adapter to bolt to my R200. As I mentioned in another thread, he suggested a Chrysler Torqueflite trans yoke with the OD reduced to the Nissan seal diameter and you could run 1310 joints in both ends.

 

With several thousand miles on my T5 swap I still consider it to be the best of all world's for the Z as far as transmissions go. The same deep first gear as the early 4 speeds and the more overdrive than even the late ZX 5 speed.