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Everything posted by SuperSamuri

  1. I do appreciate the "quick fix" . I was half expecting this to be already the case before I verified timing. Although with an engine that had previously been worked on I am inclinded to try and keep the stock orientation (too many cars to keep track of), and am pretty sure that I will be rotating clockwise once I have engine back in, and the mofications and adjustments to the Holley, along with the boost retard on the MSD. Delayed by finding I was 3 pressure plate bolts short when installing the Centre Force 2 clutch, I had 9 bolt holes line up as opposed to the 6 on the old pressure plate
  2. Thank you, I would be interested in your settings. Your comments about the vac secondires and from my research was confirmed by http://www.dtpprecisionrebuilding.com/ The car ran this set up in the late 80's early 90's according to previous owner who bought the car back from the friend he sold it to but never finished putting it back together. Assuming i will be running less retarded timing and that would mean rotating distributor clockwise then this adjustment plate may well still work, if not I'll flip it and / or dremel the adjustment slots. The diagrams are useful.
  3. Carefully checked engine timing. Rabbit ears on cam, rotor lined up #1 cylinder, TDC mark on crank pulley and pointer accurate verified with a TDC indicator. Oil pump drive was aligned correctly. Distributor tang 11.20 offset towards front of engine. The the second timing adjuster bolt on the D612-52 107 is unsurprisingly beyond its range of adjustment. Engine about to go back in. delayed by Eastwood's distribution centre catching fire. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospray-ceramic-underhood-black.html.
  4. Not wishing to blow my head gasket or worse. I had the car inspected at http://www.dtpprecisionrebuilding.com/page.php?Carb_Rebuilding_and_Tuning . Seemed confident based on what i have so far that the carb can be rejetted, and if that doesn't cure the AFR's under boost, Ill go from vacuum secondaries and convert to a double pumper. But first, a new clutch, considering the centerforce II clutch kit and of course realign the distributor drive. The distributor is a D612-52 107, which i think was from the original engine.
  5. Thanks for the input.and tuning recommendations, I wouldn't have got this far without HybridZ. Just getting some baseline figures does feel good. Before i start adjusting timing on my locked distributor , the clamp orientation shown in photo is not exactly factory and might have something to do with my timing readings of 42 degrees ? Engine starts easily when cold in California weather, idles at a steady 700rpm, can require finesse to start after the car has sat for 10-15 min (heat soak ?) I previously Checked timing marks do line up at TDC, ( having questions ove
  6. Video http://vid270.photobucket.com/albums/jj89/CelticRover/IMG_2765_zpstmxctahx.mp4 A/F shows (AEM digital gauge) at idle 10 to 1, at cruise between 12 to 13 to 1, and under full boost 13 to 14 to 1. If I abruptly lift off gas under full boost A/F can briefly spike as high as 15.0 to 1 Cylinder head is stamped P90a but does not have hydraulic lifters. The former owner said the engine had undergone some machine work at his uncle's machine shop, He was running 17-20lbs of boost and spent some time on a dyno setting up the Holley, I have the boost controller set to its lowest
  7. This is my first experience with a turbo charged engine and the L28 and i was really unsure as to what to expect as a point of reference the tuned 350 Z's were producing 304 to 307 hp. 71' 240 Z, L28 280ZX turbo 5 speed drivetrain, with a Holley 4150 blowthrough , intercooled hybrid turbo 10lbs of boost with an internal wastegate. MSD 6 BTM with a 5,500 rpm limiter, locked distributor, aeromotive boost ref fuel regulator. petronix ignition. 92 octane gas. Had the car for a year, bought as an abandoned project after being in storage for many years. This was a test run to establi
  8. Appreciated, coincidently JER was also recommended by an owner of a 240 with an RB swap. Removing the sump was an ordeal using a putty knife to cut through the grey sealant. Raised the engine after unbolting both engine mounts from the crossmember. The front mounted oil dipstick tube pulled out with some minor persuasion, and the blanking plug for the rear location popped out easily ( flew across the garage floor and took 10 min to find) The sump has had part of the baffles cut out and the area around the drain plug has a dent. (possibly the baffles were cut out to bash out a l
  9. Thank you, McKinney is under 2hrs away, and i think that some of the parts used in the swap by the PO may have came from them. Bleeding the brakes last in my garage around midnight , looked up and I have 2 LAPD police officers investigating a noise complaint , - agreed that i was doing nothing wrong, but apparently I have a new "sensitive" neighbor" in the condo building further down the street. I suspect the same "lady" who asked my son not to skateboard at 11am a couple of days before.
  10. Thank you R3VO 3VOM, Stock factory ECU, no cutting out, just occasional flat spot / hesitation under full load along with an occasional erratic cold idle speed. Just beginning to go through the car , changing the fluids and checking the inter cooler pipes, PO had mentioned they worked their way loose.
  11. Looking for recommendations for a shop in the Los Angeles area familiar with the RB engine ? I was looking for a replacement R200 on CL for my '71 and ended up buying a "73 with a R33 RB25DET installed. Runs and drives, mostly stock except for HKS bov, (yup and a Fram filter) Looking to pay a shop for an engine inspection / assessment. The engine wiring has several connectors not connected to anything, and it does sometimes stumble / hesitate under full power. It is also significantly slower than my "71 with a L28 Holley blow through turbo. I will be pulling the dri
  12. I think you got a better deal, I was looking for a replacement R200 and ended up buying a running "73 with a rb25det swap for close to what you paid. Unfortunately the PO had already installed a full bodykit, (rather than fix the rusted floorpans )
  13. Great work, My recently aquired "73 RB25 DET project is definitely going to need complete new floorpans. In the process of doing a similar gauge install in the center console on the '71
  14. I had tried searching and one of the references I found gave the incorrect autometer part # for the metric gauge adaptors for mechanical and electrical gauges for the L6 or at least the block from a 28ZX Turbo. The thermostat housing has a temperature sensor fitting which is threaded for a M16 x 1.5. The mechanical gauge adaptor is autometer part # 2275 (5/8 - 18UNF to M16 x 1.5) The same adaptor works for the oil temperature sensor in the sump on the ZX Turbo block if installing a mechanical gauge, a couple of fittings are also threaded the same, i have a cylinder head temp gauge
  15. Thank you Six_Shooter and RB26powered74zcar. Exactly the info I was looking for before drilling holes and welding my exhaust, appreciated
  16. I have ordered a Speedhut Wideband air fuel ratio gauge and sensor for a L6 Turbo setup with a Holley Blowthrough Carb and intercooler. Question is about location of the sensor in the 2.5" exhaust downpipe, considering I may install a EGT / pyrometer gauge at a later point. I have read 12 inches from turbo exhaust outlet for the Wideband? and As close to turbo exhaust outlet for the EGT / Pyrometer? Any advice appreciated.
  17. Gear whine is not a problem, impending mechanical destruction of the rear end is another matter. The straight cut gears in my Mini Cooper (first car) were louder than the engine and the induction noise from the weber behind the speedo. Changing the gearbox mounting bush, installing the RT rear diff mount, and checking all the bolts with the hope that will improve matters, before investigating further. Or may just drop the whole rear end to install energy suspension bushes and remove the underseal (fun job) before putting it all back together.
  18. Thank you, just the solution / upgrade required. Parts ordered.
  19. Thank's for the info. The caps on the UJ's don't have clips (flat washer). I also could not imagine that they can not be rebuilt, One respected driveline shop tells me no problem (using the same size UJ's and other is equally adamant that this cannot be done, Haynes says not recommended but possible). Unfortunately this Z has definitely been treated as a "red headed step child "by the PO ( supposedly with 300hp, welded lower diff mount from continually breaking the stock rubber one and a spare clutch). Clunks from the suspension (bump stops shot), and general rattles don't usual
  20. Thanks for reply, I have one driveshaft shop offering a rebuild of my current D/S and another offering to build a custom one , however upon further examination whatever "whine" i am experiencing it is probably not the UJ's. The T5 seems to be sitting uneven on its rubber transmission mount, I have a new transmission mount on order. The PO had his own solution to breaking the lower diff mount. In the mean time I am removing the R200 to have it inspected. I suspect that the side bearings are in need of replacement
  21. New owner of a 71"series 1 240Z. Thanks for all the fantastic info on the forum. I drove the car 600 miles after it had been in storage for 4 years and one my most immediate issue is a horrible amount of driveline "whine" under load. Car has a T5 BW 5 speed, R200 rear end and a L28 engine from an 83' ZX Turbo. I have removed the driveshaft / propshaft which has some free play in the UJ's and was missing a bolt. (also some loose bolts in rear suspension). The driveshaft shop i was referred to says he cannot rebuild my existing driveshaft, and would need to build a new
  22. Agreed, thats what happens when the Auction house writes the ad copy, trying to hype FFA.
  23. My favorite Z has to be one of the 74 roadgoing / competition "Super Samuri's" built in the early 1970's. http://www.sportscarmarket.com/columns/profiles/race/4834-1973-datsun-240z-super-samuri "Among U.K. Datsun enthusiasts, particularly those with a fondness for the 6-cylinder Z series, there is no bigger name than that of Spike Anderson, legendary proprietor of Samuri Conversions and the man responsible for a succession of Z-based racers in the 1970s, most notably Win Percy’s famous “Big Sam.” Very few cars are so famous that they are commonly referred to by their registration n
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