Jump to content
HybridZ

The "Ultimate" IRS Swap for S30s


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 383
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

My Z is my midlife crisis car! It used to be my young and rebellious car. Someday it will be my old-timey car.

Lol you guys get butt hurt over the most trivial things. Armchair coaches have always been funny to watch and listen to.

Hopefully sooner rather than later. Planning on learning to run the waterjet this week so I can cut at night, since getting the current operator to cut stuff for me is like pulling hairs. Hopefully ca

Posted Images

I'm not following what you are talking about? Are you talking about the threaded sleeve that the "JDM" coilovers use to weld onto the cut off stub of the stock strut tube? I like the threaded sleeves to adjust ride height independent of preload/shock travel, but I couldn't find anywhere to buy them. One of the major points I was aiming for was 100% bolt in with no welding. Also from what I have seen(Granted I haven't looked to hard at shock options), most of the s13/14 stuff they are modifying to weld on datsun struts are subpar as far as the shock goes. The Koni was the best shock within budget so thats what I built my setup around. The McKinney, BC, etc stuff doesn't compare as far as quality goes from what I have read, but I could be mistaken.

 

I have a couple people interested in trying to use BC coil-overs with my setup, and I told them I could do it, I would just need the struts to fab up a bracket for. It just complicates the process.

 

-Will

Link to post
Share on other sites

No you wouldn't want to get into buying or even making them, there's too many different thread pitches used.

 

I was thinking to limit yourself to making a flange with a lip, basically emulating what a cut off strut tube base looks like, without being quite as bulky...

 

And yes I was thinking of the megan/bc/stance or any other kits that use a threaded tube welded to the spindle, not because they are so awesome, but because people are buying them already...

 

Sometimes the ideal solution isn't the best solution, I know that from experience producing parts :)

 

-----

 

Also as an aside, any "race" coilovers have a short lifespan between rebuilds, aiming to use koni yellows is by far the best compromise in life/quality, or make your tubes compatible with both?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Will, looking killer my friend. 

 

On the different diffs - the explorer and 03/04 cobra have the 31 spline carriers. Cobra had 3.55's, and the Explorer had 3.73 IIRC.

 

All other / older diffs had the 28 spline carrier, and some came with an open diff. Do your homework, and you'll come out on top.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well guys,

 

It has come to my attention that the spreadsheet posted in the very beginning has the wrong part number for the rotor hat...the hat listed has an offset of .73 where as the final one I ended up using has an offset of .79. The ideal offset of the hat is .771, but the closest one to that is the .79 hat I chose. I thought I had posted an updated version of the spreadsheet later on but I just looked for it and it appears I didn't.

 

I greatly apologize for any troubles this has caused for the couple people who have ordered hats already. I am about to delete the spreadsheet posted and upload a new updated spreadsheet with the correct info in it.

 

-Will

Link to post
Share on other sites

I deleted the spreadsheet from the 2nd post to avoid confusion, I am trying to finish up some HW tonight and I want to comb through my spreadsheet to ensure everything is 100% accurate before I post it up again.

 

The correct part number for the rotor hat is:

 

Wilwood 170-10040

 

This hat has an offset of 0.79 inches vs the previously listed hat having an offset of 0.73 inches. Both hats will probably work, but the new one is closer to perfect.

 

I know Pete280Z is planning on going 4 lug instead of 5 lug, which is how this error was found, but is anyone else planning on trying to stay 4 lug? I drilled my hubs for 4 lug when I first did the swap, but it ended up being a PITA to drill the hubs accurately with the equipment I was using. With this in mind, at the current time I don't plan on drilling any hubs, so a local machine shop will need to be used who can tackle the job. This might change if I can come up with a good plan.

 

Once again sorry for the troubles, I should have checked the spreadsheet before I told y'all to order parts from it. Please hold off on ordering anything else until I post an update spreadsheet later tonight or tomorrow.

 

Thanks guys,

 

-Will

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not nearly as concerned about this as I can have custom hats made from COLEMAN.  As long as we know what the offset needs to be.

 

And... I believe that is the hat I am already using in my wilwood kit.  :)

Mike

Edited by Mikelly
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, got busy with school yesterday so I haven't had a chance to check the parts list yet, will be getting it done and repost it after dinner in a bit. As far as the rotor hats, the one I listed is good and works for a 5 lug setup. I will check tonight on a 4 lug hat to see if there is an off the shelf one which will work.

 

I have believe I have everyone's axles except one persons. I bet that drivetrain place is wondering why there has been a sudden spike in explorer axle sales lol. Will hopefully start getting flanges cut tomorrow and can start getting things welded up this weekend. My front door on Wednesday. Another set of axles showed up today.

 

post-27433-0-70847400-1413508219_thumb.jpg

 

With some luck I'm hoping to have things ready to ship out next Friday, but that might get held up by the powder coating place.

 

-Will

Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as staying 4 lug goes, the wilwood hat #170-6996 has a .73 offset, this is one of the only 4x4.5 bolt pattern hats they have, and its pretty close. I am willing to bet the caliper will be able to take this much misalignment in the pistons and everything will be fine. This would mean that the only thing needed to stay 4 lug would be purchasing this hat and having the hubs redrilled. With that in mind, I can face off the backside of the rotor mounting surface .040 to make the caliper and rotor be centered on each other. I could do this for an extra 20 bucks or so. This would ensure there would be no problems.

 

I will be carrying the rest of this conversation to PM with the people that I know are staying 4 lug, but anyone else interested in staying 4 lug this is the solution. Please PM me if you would like to pursue.

 

If you are trying to stay 4 lug, send me (2) of Wilwood #170-6996 hats. And we will figure out a solution.

 

-Will

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you can't shim the caliper. You would have to shim the rotor off the hat, which I suppose you could do. I guess I just don't like the thought of spacers. The caliper bolts to the back side of the backing plate, which means if you shim it, it makes the problem worse. Caliper shims would work fine the 5 lug hat to center it up perfectly, but its not needed.

 

-Will

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the hard work Will!

 

Taking 0.040 out of the 0.250 hat face seems like a lot (but I'm no ME). I'm assuming there's not enough material on the caliper mounts to cut them?

 

I checked with Coleman, and we're looking at $273 a piece for custom hats. It's significantly more than the off-the-shelf Wilwood stuff, but not necessarily a deal breaker. I still need to check with Wilwood to see if they'll sell me something like 170-10040 drilled for 4x4.50.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry if I was confusion before, I would be taking material off of the caliper mounts, not the rotor hat. Yes .040 off the .25 thick hat is a little sketchy. I would be taking .040 off of the .500 thick backing plate, no big deal except for the extra labor. I think that is probably the best sure-fire way to make sure everything works. $273 is definitely not worth it, I can take some off the backing plate for significantly less than that and it will be perfect.

 

Don't worry about the hat, we will take care of that. Try and see if you can find a local shop to redrill the hubs, that is the only part I would rather not handle.

 

-Will

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...