optimusprime8 Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 (edited) Hello fellow Z enthusiasts! I have a a Subaru R160 CLSD with 3.9 ratio and bolt in axles that I am trying to use with my 72 240z. I believe this diff came out of an old Subaru XT turbo, but I am not totally sure. The problem I have is that the passenger side stub axle won't go all the way in, it sticks out about 1/4". It goes in enough to thread the bolt, but sticks out a little bit, and it has too much play in it if I wiggle it. The driver's side looks much better and does not have play. This happens even if I only install the passenger side alone. Inside the diff, the passenger side looks different too. I think it's possible that this diff could have been reassembled incorrectly after it was rebuilt (not by me). What I need to know is how can I make it work? Is it as easy as correcting an assembly issue, or should I have one of my stub axles machined 1/2 inch shorter? I'm not really wanting to disassemble the thing, as that may be beyond my capabilities. Here are some photos. Any advice is appreciated, as I thought this would be a bolt in deal after testing only one side. Maybe it will work ok like this, but it doesn't look good to me. Also, for those who will tell me this isn't a Clutch type LSD, you can't see it in the photos, but the clutch is to the left of the bottom photo, it is not a conventional design where the clutch is in the carrier, it's outside on the big ring gear. Below is the passenger side with the problem. Below is the driver's side that looks much better. This is the inside of the diff, see how you can see the splines on the passenger side but not the driver's side. Edited May 17, 2014 by optimusprime8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Silly question but could you have mixed them up? Did you try swapping them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimusprime8 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 No, the same results when I swap sides of the stub axles. Passenger side is always sticking out too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Show a picture of the "clutch". Hard to understand how it can distribute power between the two axles if it's attached to the ring gear. Sounds interesting. Most diffs, open included, have two different length axles. How can you switch sides in yours and get the same result? Seems odd. Pictures of the two axles, out and side-by-side, might give someone a clue also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 I assume you got a pair of Datsun 510 stub axles? I did this swap in my 510 back in 1991 without a problem (nobody knew if it would even work), but you will need R160 stub axles, as R180 won't work. Just thought I'd throw that out there. They are different lengths, left & right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimusprime8 Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share Posted May 18, 2014 That's the deal then, I am using 240z r180 stub axles. They are also 25 spline and as you can see, they almost work. I suppose I need to source some 510 stub axles then. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimusprime8 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 I found a guy with Datsun 510 stub axles. They were 100% identical to my 240z stub axles, same problem. Either they guy thought they were 510 axles and they are really 240 or they are the same. I'm thinking of having my stub axles machined to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 (edited) Hello fellow Z enthusiasts! I have a a Subaru R160 CLSD with 3.9 ratio and bolt in axles that I am trying to use with my 72 240z. I believe this diff came out of an old Subaru XT turbo, but I am not totally sure. This is the inside of the diff, see how you can see the splines on the passenger side but not the driver's side. This picture is not of a CLSD and the XT turbo came with a 3.70, not 3.90. That center section does look like a stock open diff. All I know is that all of the R160 & R200 LSDs I've had and opened up have a more solid case where you can see clutches, not an open carrier like this picture. Something is off!! CLSD looks like this: Edited May 22, 2014 by Savage42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 The diff from the XT is not a CLSD and it has a flat cut in the cross shaft that the side axle bottoms against to bind the side gears. It's almost like a spool (I think). What you are seeing is normal for that diff when using the non XT specific side axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimusprime8 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) I'm just concerned that the stub on one side has too much play and sticks out farther than the other side. JohnC, you're thinking this is normal and I don't need to worry about it? I've found a lot of conflicting info across various Subaru forums and 510 forums, including that post that Savage42 referenced. This picture shows an open diff on the left and an LSD on the right. Notice the extra stuff to the left of the ring gear, this is where the LSD hides in this design. Whether it's a CLSD or a VLSD I don't really care at this point, I already bought it and I just want to make sure it will work without tearing itself apart in the first 1000 miles. I found a Subaru Forester forum that shows what I believe may be this same diff, after it has failed, all dissassembled. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/pictures-busted-r160-lsd-47141/ Probably not a good sign that it failed, but if I can get it to work for a year or two I'd be happy. A newish Forester weighs a lot more than a 1972 240. Edited May 30, 2014 by optimusprime8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 If you read the replies on the Subaru Forester thread, it is said several times that it's a VLSD, which requires different stub axles. That is most likely your problem, as all of the CLSD diffs I've dealt with for years have that solid carrier with a couple "windows", not open like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rico510 Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 I am in a dilema, Have a VLSD gear in 4.44, I have a Futofab CV axle kit, what stub axles do I need for it to work? The stock diff had the bolt in style stubs but the new R160 needs I guess the clip style. where may I find some? Any information would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 Two solutions that I'm aware of.... 1) Get Futofab's Sti conversion stub axles: https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=173:r180-sti-stub-axles&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122 2) Get a set of R160 side axles for a 510 and machine a groove in them for the clip (assuming that your VLSD R160 already has the circlips internally). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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