jparker893 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 I bought the polyurethane bushing kit for my 1975 280z http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4100AZ . Besides the tiny tube of lube they include, the kit was great. I got the control arms, rack and pinion, and front sway bar all done. I then started on the tie rods. Removal was easy, but I can't for the life of me get the urethane bushing into that beveled pocket where the old bushing sat. I've urethane lube, dish soap, a rubber mallet, and vice grips. Nothings really doing it, I wonder if I need shave off a little piece of bushing or get it pressed. Any ideas? Heat gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 (edited) Tie rod bushing? What do you mean by "tie rod"? Maybe my memory or general knowledge is off, but I don't recall a tie rod bushing. Post a picture. Edit - just a guess, but maybe you're trying to use the mustache bar bushings in the tension/compression rod spot. They're both big and round. Also note that the T/C rod and its bushings are easiest to replace with the wheels and suspensions weighted. You can reach everything while laying beside the car. Almost impossible to get the bolts back in with the wheel hanging. Edited May 31, 2014 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 Tie rod bushing? What do you mean by "tie rod"? Maybe my memory or general knowledge is off, but I don't recall a tie rod bushing. Post a picture. Edit - just a guess, but maybe you're trying to use the mustache bar bushings in the tension/compression rod spot. They're both big and round. Also note that the T/C rod and its bushings are easiest to replace with the wheels and suspensions weighted. You can reach everything while laying beside the car. Almost impossible to get the bolts back in with the wheel hanging. wasn't thinking when I was typing haha it's the tension rod bushings. I have the motor out also so no worries on reach. It's bushing on the engine bay side, i'll take a pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Compare the new bushing diameter to the old rubber bushing diameter. there's no reason they shouldn't fit., I think that all S30's use the same T/C rods. Make sure also that you read up on urethane bushings and broken T/C rods too. Many people run 1/2 rubber, 1/2 urethane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 So i've got it partially in but when i put the washer on there isn't enough room for the nut tighten. I tried a c-clamp and also a smaller washer just to get it a little further, but no luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Is the wheel on the ground and weighted by the car? Looks like you have the wheel hanging. The rod might be at an angle. On the ground makes everything super-easy. Things are incredibly harder than would seem rational with the wheel hanging. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 Is the wheel on the ground and weighted by the car? Looks like you have the wheel hanging. The rod might be at an angle. On the ground makes everything super-easy. Things are incredibly harder than would seem rational with the wheel hanging. . didn't think to put it back on the ground to straighten things out. Ill give it a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 In the top photo you have the large washer installed backwards - the "cup" should be facing the hub, not the bushing. You should seriously consider NOT using all 4 poly bushings - as was mentioned above. Ask me how I know... I was up in the hills on a tight, twisty, 2-lane road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Just use stock rubber bushings for the TC rod and poly for the rest of the suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedarkie Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Worth noting also that since your engine is out, even with the wheels on the ground the rod may still be at an angle and difficult to put back into position. If thats the case you should just wait and do those bushings last. I've been doing reading on the subject also and the consensus is to use rubber bushings, or if you must use the poly ones, you can drill holes in them to provide more flex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 In the top photo you have the large washer installed backwards - the "cup" should be facing the hub, not the bushing. You should seriously consider NOT using all 4 poly bushings - as was mentioned above. Ask me how I know... I was up in the hills on a tight, twisty, 2-lane road. what's funny is that that washer was grimed on there so I left it that way assuming is was right haha, thanks for the heads up. I'm guessing things got really tight up on those hills? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 Just use stock rubber bushings for the TC rod and poly for the rest of the suspension. says your from Sacramento also, are you apart of David Witt's club? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 says your from Sacramento also, are you apart of David Witt's club? No. Just my club which consists of me and my son and two hybrid 240Zs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 No. Just my club which consists of me and my son and two hybrid 240Zs. you guys should come check out one of their meets. It's a great group of people with a variety of datsuns, they every first friday of month at round table parking lot off sunrise blvd. I think they are caravanning to canby also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Got the bushings in, had to shave them down a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I had no problems installing these on the TC... The only place I had a problem was on the steering rack. No matter what I did, I couldnt get the damn things to fit. Everything else went in great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jparker893 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 I had no problems installing these on the TC... The only place I had a problem was on the steering rack. No matter what I did, I couldnt get the damn things to fit. Everything else went in great. that's weird my steering rack bushing went in easy, I haven't even attempted the rear yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) that's weird my steering rack bushing went in easy, I haven't even attempted the rear yet This makes me worried. There may be a mix up of rack bushings. 280 racks have a wider bushing area (distance between the flanges that constrain the bushing) on the drivers side than the earlier racks, and there are two different bushings to account for this. Poor AZghost and many others have endless tails of whoa getting the right bushings inplace as they are very very tight. Requires total cleanout, handfulls of lube, gear clamps,copious swearing and bleeding to get the bushings seated well enough to re-assemble. The end result is great, but its not easy as you seem to indicate The MSA page you linked to shows the differences. Their 23-4151 rack bushings should be right. If you accidently got a 240 bushing, it will fit way too loose and will allow the rack to move left right with steering input. The other side is the same on both racks. If you have the too-small 240 bushing, it will seem to slip together pretty well and seats 'ok', but the test of putting the wheels on the ground and steering right/left while watching the rack move will tell you the story. Another diagnostic would be, when on the road you will notice that if you turn left, the wheel will return to center in one place, but if you then turn right, the wheel will re-center to a noticably different spot. Sure sign of the rack shifting with the turns. Maybe you got lucky, don't worry about it until you take it for a drive. Edited June 23, 2014 by z240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerrigan Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Compare the new bushing diameter to the old rubber bushing diameter. there's no reason they shouldn't fit., I think that all S30's use the same T/C rods. Make sure also that you read up on urethane bushings and broken T/C rods too. Many people run 1/2 rubber, 1/2 urethane. I struck out searching for broken T/C rods and poly bushings. I've them in mine and could you write a line or two summarizing the problem and what to look for? Thank you very much. Wouldn't like a T/C rod to break zooming around the hills. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 If you grease the steering rack bushings well they will squirm around to fill the gaps when driving. I had about a quarter inch gap I couldn't close but just torqued bolts and drove. They're elastic. They fit perfectly now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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