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1973 240z build


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Hey guys here's my Z I picked up saturday! This is in addition to my dads project Z which is getting the full AZC susp. and other crazy stuff- this will be a little more modest as I don't have that kinda money to throw at this car hahaha

 

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1973 240z, odo says 26,XXX so who knows how many miles.

 

PO put what look like Konig rewinds? with new tires, 280z front brakes, and some poly bushings front and rear. lights/air/signals work which is nice. Covered in what appears to be black primer but body is very straight and frame rails, under hatch, and under body are essentially rust free which is why i jumped on this car.

 

Car isn't running that great but I think most of that could be optimized by tuning the carbs. My other car is an '82 242 turbo so I'm not too familiar with carbs, better start learning.

 

plans include:

coils (either GC weld in or Megan weld in from mckinney motor sports) and camber plates

finish off poly bushings where needed

adjustable TC/LCA

adjustable RLCA

 

zg flares

resized jdm wheels- longchamps, equip 01/03, ssr mk1/2/3, etc

imsa 3 piece tail

front airdam

 

future motor swap

 

Saving up funds from my summer job so progress should start in the coming week or two.

 

Adrian

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Hard to tell what it looks like from the filtered pictures...

 

Is that still a thing, to use the filters to obscure what you're trying to show?

The filtering, if that's what it is - I think it's just washed out pictures from a not-so-great camera - isn't that big a deal, but the pictures are quite small.  Come on man, give us some nice BIG high resolution pictures so we can properly ogle your new Z!! :D

 

A rust free car is a great starting point.  Do everything you can before painting to make sure you get it all and seal everything up properly - POR-15 when applied properly is a good choice, as is Wurth Stoneguard for underneath the car.  I would consider going with an L28 engine if you can, these cars are so light that you don't need crazy amounts of power to have fun in them.  It's nice to keep the proper engine in the car, and these straight sixes really make a wonderful sound, are built strong, and are easy to work on.  

 

Looking forward to see your progress!

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  I would consider going with an L28 engine if you can, these cars are so light that you don't need crazy amounts of power to have fun in them.  It's nice to keep the proper engine in the car, and these straight sixes really make a wonderful sound, are built strong, and are easy to work on.  

I couldn't agree more! I used to be all over the RB and LS swaps, but these days, there's nothing I'd rather have besides an L series. As long as you don't add too much weight (if you don't pay attention, it can really add up), a 250hp L28 will be plenty of power.

 

And me personally, I'd go with GC over Megan. Some of the cheaper coilovers are shit, although I don't recall if Megan falls into that category.

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thanks for the feedback guys- sorry about the pictures, long story short I'm not familiar with the new phone I have but I will get some clearer/bigger ones up soon.

1) for coils, the GC setup is nice, but does not leave height adjustment independent from preload. The Megan's shock body threads through a sleeve so you can leave the spring where it is (relative to the shock body) and still change the ride height. If anyone has experience with other coils they used please let me know!
 

2) as for the motor swap that's not gonna happen until earliest next summer and I'm not totally set on a non datsun motor (Stroked L28 or L28et seem like my top choices). I know I'm gonna take a lot of heat for this but ideally I would swap in a 2jzgte or 7mgte just cuz they're toyota and kind of a middle finger to purists- doubt that'll ever happen though lol

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so I went down to santa clara and pulled my dad's l24/5 speed out of his car. I left the driveshaft. I pulled my l24/4 speed. I also left the stock driveshaft in my car. The L24 with the 5speed should be able to use the stock driveshaft yes?

 

I also noticed on my dad's Z the trans mount has two flat tabs the the bolts go up through, where as mine has two sleeves that the bolts go parallel through. Will the 5 speed from my dads bolt to the other style transmission mount? I'm sure this has been talked about but after about 12 hours of straight work today I'd really appreciate it if someone could just let me know.

 

Any major problems I should expect to run into? Speedo cable, different vacuum line routings, etc?

 

Thanks in advance,

Adrian

 

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Thanks six_shooter, I was able to just bolt the 5 speed to the 4 speed mount and bolt it up back to the body.

 

Started off sunday morning with 2 motors in the garage and and an engineless car in the driveway.

 

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This is with the motor/trans back in the car and my friend trying to hook up the fuel lines.

 

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Should have it running tomorrow after work if everything goes according to plan. Have to:

Add coolant

Bleed clutch

Add transmission oil

Reconnect some odds and ends (wires, e-fan, etc)

 

My pay check came in today so immediate things on the list are:

Megan weld on coils

IMSA 3 piece spoiler

MSA Aidam

 

I'll get ZG flares once I can afford some nice 3 piece wheels (leaning towards equip 01/03)

 

I'll have an update on the motor with good news tomorrow hopefully!

 

Adrian

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She runs!!! Only one problem, the engine wont die with key off.. 

 

Here is what I swapped in to my 1973 240z:

 

L24 from 1972 240z with alternator

I kept the ignition coil from my car and hooked it up to the distributor on the '72 motor 

 

I also used my chassis harness to plug into the alternator on the '72 motor. I doubt its the ignition switch because it worked fine with the old motor (it would shut off) and I've done some searching and apparently an alternator can cause the symptoms i'm seeing but would switching from a '73 to '72 alt cause this?

 

I've read this can happen when switching from an int/ext regulated one but that change didn't happen until '79?

 

any ideas? 

 

Thanks,

Adrian

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The only thing is that the other motor in the car WOULD turn off with key off which leads me to believe it has to be the alternator wiring or the way I hooked the coil back up to the distributor/chassis. 

 

I'll look into it though, unbolting and bolting things back together I can do.. wiring, I cannot.

 

Thanks for the advice!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been too busy to deal with the shut-off issue and its getting the exhaust done, but I did come home to these yesterday!!

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They're rota shakotan in 15x8 et0 all around.
 
I opened up a box to take a look inside:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Wait, those aren't rotas..? Oh yeah, these must be the Equip 03's I bought off Zilvia. The guy packaged em in Rota boxes to make them more discreet.
15x8.5 et-6 ~3" lip
15x9 et-3 ~4" lip
 
I'll test fit them once I get the car back from getting the exhaust done.
 
And there are a few boxes heading up the California coast from theZstore so next update the car should look pretty different!
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Nice wheels!!!  I was looking at those on Zilvia as well, but they were a touch out of my price range and I wasn't sure of their fitment.  Can't wait to see how they look on your car!

 
Ya what he was asking was a little over my budget for wheels but he took the tires off to lower the price and gave me a good deal.
 
The exhaust should be done today or Friday. I don't plan on modifying the stock L24 so I just went with 2.25" piping, no cat, no resonator, and a muffler. Should be decently loud but anything is better than the open headers lol.
 
New parts!! Ran out of space in the garage so they're chilling in my room haha
 
MSA Victory spoiler, Urethane airdam, and headlight covers. The fender mirrors are on back order and will take eons to arrive.
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Got the tires mounted- 195/55r15 on 15x8.5/9"
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Stretch on the 8.5"
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Stretch on the 9"
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And the last shot before they are on the car..
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I know, I know just mount the damn wheels already- I agree! I'll check back in Friday with a test fit.
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The exhaust took wayyy longer than expected but it came out sounding great and looks pretty sweet too. Its quiet-ish at idle and up to 3.5k but after that it gets pretty raspy and metallic. Its hard not to shift at 4k now haha 

 

Its 2.25" piping, no cat, no resonator, and then vertical glass packs with angle cut tips:

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Then I test fit the wheels:

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I could not have asked for better sizing on stock fenders. The wheel pokes an inch but since they're 15s its not too close to the fenders, and the 195s will tuck up nicely under the fenders and I might even get away with just a roll, no pull, and no added camber.

 

This thing drives so great I really don't want to slam it, maybe fenders just below tire height, Idk we'll see how things progress..

 

Then came the spoiler/airdam. MSA Victory spoiler, and Urethane air dam.

 

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I didnt get any good pictures of the airdam since dinner pushed the install till after sun down so I'll get some better pictures with my friends camera of all the new parts.

 

This is just a mock up on the jack and wood blocks:

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And this was in the parking lot at work:

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The new parts totally changed the feel of the car and I'm really liking the meaty sidewall look on 15's. I just got my pay check and am debating between coils or all the other susp. stuff like TC rods, LCAs, bushings, etc.

 

Feel free to leave feedback!

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