JMortensen Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Yeah, I think it fit because you used different parts that fit better, so you're good to go. FWIW, I always had doubts about the weld on adapters, but to date I don't think I've ever heard of anyone breaking them. Seems the axle is still the weak link. The Modern Motorsports adapters (which I used to sell also) were radiused and just way beefier all the way around. I wish I had a profile shot of the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mainboyd Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 I don’t mind the extra material for strength but if it’s going to cause complications in using them and the extra material was just for a huge safety factor then I personally think it’s overkill and not necessary. Which is why I machined 4mm off of my adapters before even checking to see if they would fit first. I'm with you about how you feel about welding adapters. However, it’s definitely not because of the welds breaking. It’s how true everything will be when it comes to everything being centered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted March 7, 2023 Share Posted March 7, 2023 (edited) Following up on this, as there are so many threads on different forums referencing parts/adaptors/axles from 10+ years back. This is for my 75 280Z, stock suspension/drivetrain. Bascially, I just want to confirm that Z31XT stock (aftermarket, such as the Trakmotive) fit with the currently available Silvermine adaptors, or do they have to be OEM axles with cages filipped? I think MainBoyd stated he machined the new adaptors to reduce any offset, I'm not 100% on that without any reference pics to confirm what he said. Any advice/recommendations? Edited March 7, 2023 by HusseinHolland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 7, 2023 Share Posted March 7, 2023 Flipping cages shouldn't be necessary with the Silvermine adapters. If you go to put them in and can compress the CV enough to fit it in the car with the suspension fully drooped (where the CVs need to be shortest), then don't worry about flipping cages. If you can't compress enough, then you can get into all that BS. It doesn't gain you much, really need to flip and then grind the axle down for clearance. But you shouldn't have to do any of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 (edited) People have reported odd results from aftermarket axles. Some appear to be longer than factory Nissan axles. You might call Silvermine and ask where they source the axles that they sell as an add-on in their ad. Aftermarket parts are generally sketchy. Take measurements or test-fit the axles while you can still return them. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1985,300zx,3.0l+v6+turbocharged,1209518,drivetrain,cv+axle,2288 Just curious, but why do you want to switch to CV axles? Edit - Looked back at your other posts. Part of the overall plan, I assume. The u-joint half shafts are pretty strong. Good luck. Edited March 8, 2023 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-Tech Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 Just to put my 2 cents in about stock aftermarket cv-axles. I bought the same trakmotive axles from Rockauto. They worked fine in my 280zx (different car i know). The main thing i noticed was the main shaft is a noticeably smaller diameter than stock. They worked fine other than that. I swapped them out after finding used OEM cv's. Ill keep them for backup but i was a lil concerned about strength for high HP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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